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Logitech Wingman Attack 2

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Dear all,I'm planning to make a boeing 737 type throttle quadrant. I will buy winman attack 2 as I need the ready use potentiometer. It's by far, the cheapes joystick I got.From the spec I got, It has 3 axis, without twist rudder. It's a USB joystick.Anybody having experience using this part of this joystick to build throttle??ThanksArif

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Hi Arif. I just got the same stick for the same reasons. To gut it. I used it in a couple of sims first just to try it out and I thinks I just fine. I took it apart to have a peak in. I managed to get it back together but forgot to measure the resistance on the pots. The pots are tiny !Did you get any where with your throttle yet. Please let me know.Mike

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Good idea. I was also looking at the Extreme Digital 3D for the extra axis and 8-way hat but it costs twice as much. One Extreme and one Attack 2 would end up:Extreme:4 axes (elevator, aileron, throttle, rudder)7 programmable buttons8-way hatAttack 2:3 axes (mixture, prop speed, anything else analog)6 programmable buttonsBut for the same price (and the use of one more USB port), you could get three Attack 2 sticks which is perfect for a twin-engine setup:9 axes (elevator, aileron, rudder, left/right throttle, left/right mixture, left/right prop speed)18 buttonsMike, do you know if FS and/or FSUIPC can properly interact with three Attack 2 sticks?Peter http://bfu.avsim.net/sigpics/PeterR.gifBFU Forums Moderator

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Well this is all new to me. Since it is a WingMan and I know the pc knows this because it shows up in the setup as a WingMan may be a problem. I know you can connect as many USB devices as you want, no prob, but two WingMan....hmmm.When thinking about how many axis you will need or want don't forget to consider trim. I'm thinking the "multiturn pots" would work great for this. I think 10 turns are common.Also there is a guy on the forum here...I think his name is LeoL or something like that. He sells the usb chips all ready for your project (20 bucks). Also has a diagram showing how to put it all together.At least the mechanical end shouldn't be too hard to figure out :)Mike

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Yeah, I've checked out Leo's stuff. Pretty cool. But for the price, the sticks give you the converter, pots, and switches. Quite nice. And you can find used sticks all over the place; some have more axes and buttons. Don't have to pay retail.Anyway, the only question at this point is whether more than one of the same stick will work. If not, then I guess I'll be shopping for different brands to mix and match. I have a USB gamepad somewhere that I'm going to investigate too.Peter http://bfu.avsim.net/sigpics/PeterR.gifBFU Forums Moderator

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I think that the only part that is useable is the converter. I don't like the buttons, besides they are the type that are soldered to a pc board with a secondary pad over top to press. I have lots of these buttons that I saved out of old printers and such. And the pots are very small. If we need to add gears or levers to them it could be tricky. I also wonder what the quality is like on these pots. One way to check is to go and get another "attack 2" :)Mike

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>When thinking about how many axis you will need or want >don't forget to consider trim. I'm thinking the "multiturn >pots" would work great for this. I think 10 turns are >common. Just remember that "Trim potentiometer" and "autopilot" dont mix unless you have some motorized trim wheel that moves the pot according to the autopilot adjustments.A rotary that gives pulses for "elevator trim up" and "... down" works better since then the trimwheel itself doesnt have a "position" and thus it does not jump around to a different position and make your autopilot and nice cruise very confused when you touch it (or if the potentiometer value varies slightly because of interference or such)Or was there a better solution to this problem? I remember there was discussion but it was a while ago..Tuomas

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Guest LeoL

It's ok, I didn't take any offense to your statement. Trust me I know, I'm always checking Ebay for great deals on cheap used sticks... ;)

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I was just wondering if it's OK to use 1meg pots with the USB system ? This eliminates the need for gears.ThanksMike

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Guest LeoL

>I was just wondering if it's OK to use 1meg pots with the >USB system ? This eliminates the need for gears. >As far as I know from my own USB modules and even RadioShack's, you can't use a 1 Meg pot, 100K max or less is the standard. If you want to make the pot more (or less) sensitive and eliminate reduction gears then you simply need to change the timing capacitor on these modules. It's gonna be tough to do with the RadioShack module since the caps are tiny surface mounts.You need to keep in mind that the pots in 99% of these devices (game port, USB, etc) only vary the voltage ratio to the input. As such, that means it does matter what your pot value is, if your Vcc is say 5V and you turn your pot half way, you'll read 2.5V on the output regardless of your pot Ohmage. Try it yourself and you'll see with any pot. It's simply a design standard that we use 100K in order to keep the current within an operational range of IC

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Hi Leo, thanks for the reply. That's what I was afraid of.So If I used the 1meg and set it up with the meter so it was giving me the correct voltage it may work. I guess I could send it 5v and then turn it untill the meter says 0 and that would be the useable portion of the pot. Or is the overly simplistic ?This one is for FS foot pedals so I guess I can use the gameport for that one. The guy that baacked up my whole idea Steve, has a web page that show how he did a helo set up using the gameport and the 1meg pots.Mike

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