Panel Backlighting Suggestion

[Guest petrsn]

Greetings all,I stumbled upon a product the other day "NEON Maxx Black Light Accent Paint" at pctoys.com.Its' description reads as this... "Neon Maxx Light accent paint gives a cool added glow when used with a Black (U/V) Cold Cathode or Neon light. The amazing thing about Neon Maxx is that it's completely invisible until the Black light is turn on. It's the only transparent blacklight paint that is water washable and comes off with Windex."The idea is to use this as a light diffuser by applying it to the plexiglass underpanels. By using cold cathode uv tubes (another case modder product) for a light source I would expect some very luminous results !I am ordering the paint and will post results. I refer you to the following posts that I haver found informative on this subject...http://forums.avsim.com/dcboard.php?az=sho...42&topic_id=243http://forums.avsim.com/dcboard.php?az=sho...2&topic_id=1135

[Guest AirPanther]

I am upgrading to Street Glow backlighting. It's the same stuff street racers use in their cars (er, uh, so I've heard :-hah). I am DONE with rope lighting. It's too ununiform, it gets hot too quick and it uses too much power.http://www.streetglow.comThe Street glow route may be a bit more expensive, but there are quite a few benefits to using it. Also, if you live near an Auto Zone, you can buy car neons from a company called Quest. I use those in my car too, and they are very good.Robert Pratherhttp://www.777Project.cjb.nethttp://www.PVRidaz.cjb.net

[Guest Dodiano]

2 FAST 2 FURIOUS... TIPS FOR COCKPIT BUILDING LOL!!! So you street racer huh LOL!!! Hope you got that new stereo for the wheels...Take care.Roberto

[Guest AirPanther]

Speaking of 2 Fast 2 Furious for sim builders ... funny you should bring that up! Here are the aircraft-style panels I put in my car. The switches control various neon tubes in the car including 2 multi-color plasma tubes. The overhead panel will be changed and populated once the amplifier is connected. Now who's obsessed :-lol...Switching Control Module - First Prototypehttp://www.t-b-x.com/prather/teampv/Images/prather2.jpgSwitching Control Module - First Prototype (at night)http://www.t-b-x.com/prather/teampv/Images/prather4.jpgOverhead Module - First Prototypehttp://www.t-b-x.com/prather/teampv/Images...er_overhead.jpgBTW, the square openings in the SCM first prototype were for Korry pushbuttons . I will probably put them back eventually!As for the stereo, AGT is cutting my box right now. It should be GORGEOUS! I got the speakers yesterday, so now I have everything but the box. I will post pics of it once it comes in along with prototype II of the SCM.Roberthttp://www.777Project.cjb.nethttp://www.ProMFD.cjb.net

[Guest Dodiano]

Looking real good dude!!!!!! I love the overhead detail, cars should have overheads :) You know for

[Guest AirPanther]

Actually, I do eventually want to add a complex engine start to my car. I have installed Pro MFD on my laptop (http://www.ProMFD.cjb.net) and would like to slowly start integrating the systems from my car into the software. There will be a multifunction display installed on a small screen, which may eventually replace the radio (which will become a synoptic display.. lol). I will be able to monitor things such as engine temp, oil temp, tire press., etc. I probably won't add an APU to my car anytime soon, but I want to make it VERY difficult to steal . ...and you thought Mike was obsessed :-lol Roberthttp://www.777Project.cjb.net

[Guest Dodiano]

Dude just let me know when you add those TRENT powerplants to the car ok so the 777 checklist would be in the car right LOL!! Yeah you will have the first proto for Back to the future you just now have to make the Car fly... Adding those TRENT will help a lot ...Take care very nice looking car and let us know when you have more..Roberto

[tigert 0]

>The idea is to use this as a light diffuser by applying it to>the plexiglass underpanels. By using cold cathode uv tubes>(another case modder product) for a light source I would>expect some very luminous results !Just laminated paper with white markings might work - those might "glow" just fine under "blacklight" tube. So one could put a blacklight under the glareshield or something, or on the roof of the sim, that might work as well.Tuomas

[Guest DavidJ]

Hi Guys,I have experimented with Cold Cathode Flurescent Lights and the Flight Deck Solution panels. The CCFL's work excellent. They do not have the brawback that other light sources have. They do not produce a lot of heat, they work on 12 volts and are safe in the cockpit project.The only thing I had problems with was the night effect. I wanted to dim the CCFL's. There is an very easy way to do this however it seems that the lifespan of the CCFL's is negatively effected by dimming the lights. What I use is a sunbeam fan controller rheostat that regulates the voltage. This solution works excellent for me.I will report on the life of the tubes in the future.David

[Guest Mathew]

Hi David,sounds great - but what please are "Cold Cathode Flurescent Lights" ???Can you please give me a hint ??ThanksMathias

[Guest petrsn]

Greetings all :Here is a link to a supplier for such items for case modders and hot rodders. http://pctoys.com/I haven't begun to test it's applicability yet. From what DavidJ's post states,he's already done some field work regarding this. My thoughts (likely already tried) are to use the cold cathodes as the backlight source. There may be some natural luminescent qualities in the paper used for the panel printout or diffusing material. However, I am curious to see if the luminescent paint will augment this and to determine if the paint has the longevity to make it a feasible option.Some background on my project...only a large portfolio of research and posts so far, nicely bound in a large 3 ring binder and constantly being reread. I THINK I have settled on reproducing a 767 due to considering producing my own panels. Although, FDS's 737 panels are still a possibility. FSBUS as an interface as well. GoFlight modules may be used as well. I'll be submitting questions soon after reviewing archived posts on this forum (again).Thanks for your all of your help,Tom

[Guest MikePowell]

Mathias,The fluorescent lamps used for room lighting have filaments at each end that heat up briefly when the lamps are first turned on. Heating them causes the electron emission to increase dramatically. Before it's turned on the gas in the lamp is an insulator and will not support the current flow needed to light the lamp. Thermally kicking some electrons out there is the first step in getting the lamp going. Once the lamp is on, current through the gas in the tube keeps it ionized and the filament heating is no longer needed. If the lamps are smaller, it's not necessary to have heaters to get the lamp turned on. These heater-less fluorescent tubes are called "cold cathode fluorescents". These smaller lamps get used to back light LCD displays among other things. They are showing up on the surplus market now for reasonable prices. B.G. Micro and All Electronics are two of the bunch carrying them.Mikewww.mikesflightdeck.comInfo for simpit builders

[Guest DavidJ]

Thanks Mike for explaining so very nice what CCFL are.They are use to backlight LCD panel. They emmit a lot of light and don not produce a lot of heat. This is the main reson to incorperate them into the project. Most of the other lightsources don not produce that much light or procude too much heat.I have tested the lamps (use for case modding) but the dimming and the collor was the main problem. Then I orderes the lamps in white and that took al lot of time. I now use a rheostat (dimmer) to dim the lights at that wordk resonably well.I Will try to post some preliminary examples using the FDS glare shield this week in this threadDavid

[Guest]

Hello All,Since your are talking about plexiglass underpanel, I have a few questions :How easy is it to work with plexiglass ? Do you recommend a specific thickness?I'm considering using plexiglass instead of plywood for my panel but have no experience with plexiglass.Nicolas

[Guest AirPanther]

Plexiglass can be difficult to work with using generic tools. As they move turn, gyrate, etc, they generate a lot of heat. Notice when you drill through a piece of plywood, the bit gets hot very quickly. Well, this heat causes stress and thermal cracks in plexiglass, which can cause the panel to break. I and other builders have snapped plenty of panels, but still see it as a great way to go. Just make sure you drill slow, and avoid having to use a jigsaw. We used to cut plexiglass on a table saw in high school and that work fine since it's so powerful. Doesn't help much though unless you want square cuts.Roberthttp://www.777Project.cjb.net