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Guest mondo

Looking for a pcb layout

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Guest PoRrEkE

Congrats :) Keep it up and keep those eyes uncrossed :(Out of curiousity .. is it doable without the press ?Ow and what does "oscilate" mean :(

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Guest Erups

>I didn't .. but I can't believe it's very hard to do eiter.Not difficult, but drilling by hand can be very destructive on your muscles ;)And on your eyes too :)

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Guest mbessler

>For me the vertical gives me all sort of pain.>The pins are too tight, i have to use very small routes...>I doubt i'll be able to etch it with my very UNprecise>"etching lamp" (what's its name??).You mean UV lamp for exposure of the boards ?>I think i'll wait till i finish my homemade cnc...If you want to mill/route your boards with a homemade CNC, I wouldn't bet on it being better than the method with photosensitive boards, or even Toner Transfer.If its a really good one, then you might be able to do boards where you have one trace between two IC legs. But even that will be hard to do. I have worked with a commercial PCB mill... And that was the limit of this very expensive machine.You might wanna try the toner transfer method. If you have a laser printer, then you should be all set.check this tutorial of how this method works:www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htmI'm also working on a tutorial, right now no text but lots of pictures:http://cockpit.varxec.net/tools/gal/tonert...galleryidx.htmlManuel

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If you want to try drilling without a press, get lots of drill bits...lots and lots!!!:-lol

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Been there done that! I think that the variables between toner types affects the iron temperature and messes with your results. I tried three different laser printers an HP, Brother and I think the last one was a Canon. Couldn't get the toner to adhere consistently. Finally, broke down and made an exposure box with two 18" blacklights in it for doing photosensitive boards. Kicking myself now that I see how easy it is. Went a little overboard with the lighting though. Using MG Chemicals board, they recommend a five minute exposure. I get a beautiful trace at one minute ten seconds. At five minutes, I'm left with a few little green smudges where solder pads are supposed to be.Bottom line, take a look at buying premade plug and play boards, then figure out what the bottom of the line photoresist exposure kit will set you back. I figure that by making my own boards, I'll save at least $600-800.:-beerchug

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Guest PoRrEkE

roflManuel if you'd check the page richt you would find this: "PCB for five display digits multiplexed 4 Eur AVAILABLE "http://www.opencockpits.com/images/pd5.jpgAnd while looking at it .. I don't think my displays would fit on these. My CC pin is the 3 and the 8 (each time 3rd from the top.) Don't think this is the case on this pcb.Also it doesn't say for which displays it is or which size .. bad points for IOcards there :(

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Guest mbessler

>Manuel if you'd check the page richt you would find this: >Also it doesn't say for which displays it is or which size ..>bad points for IOcards there :(Well, the link was just a "commercial" so to speak (yes I know its a non-commerical project). And they are "pushing" their project...Since you say their pinout is not compatible, it was not very useful to post except to hint about the existence of iocards. Thats ok as long as it fills a gap... (I occasionally hint at my stuff as well :) )The general problem with those 7segment boards is that there are too many variants of display sizes, pin arrangements and pinouts. Then it depends on how many displays you need in a row. You'd need boards at least for 3,4, and 5 displays in a block. In addition to that, you can choose between common cathode and common anode. Most of the cockpit interfaces only allow one kind...>And while looking at it .. I don't think my displays would fit>on these. My CC pin is the 3 and the 8 (each time 3rd from>the top.) Don't think this is the case on this pcb.Yes, I use the same displays, just different color. I've made some boards using veroboard and some others are homemade, etched PCBs. I generally make them application specific, not generic like those from FSBus and those in the above picture from iocards.Manuel

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Guest PoRrEkE

> Then it depends on how many displays you need in a row. You'd need> boards at least for 3,4, and 5 displays in a block.I think you can as well make 5 cards and cut off the part you don't neef IF and only if it gets in the way. Otherwise just don't use the 2 or 1 spaces.Either way for me here it would be awesome e.g. to get cards which have 2x5 such displays in 2 rows. As close together as possible. That would be sweet to have for NAV and COM and ADF. Would make it very handy to fit the display print into the panel. Even if the 2 row sirquits dont have anything in comon. But probably most often you'll find the anode pins to be wired together even from 2 rows of displays. You just got to keep the cathodes sepp. (if you got CC that is).If anyone ever feels like doing me that favour ... 3x double 5 display cards and 2 single 5's (1 for ap alt and 1 for xpdr which needs 4 but wth)... let me know aaaight ?

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Guest PoRrEkE

I can't imagine .. what you should have is a very short one ... you only need to drill like 2mm deep so a drill of 3mm long would be ideal cuz it will not break as fast .. don't know if that exists though ..ow right, i'd break one, and just take the tip from that broken one :(that is if and only if the system for fitting a drill tip on a dremel works like my big power drill here ... (have no idea)

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Guest PoRrEkE

I am trying out here to design a PCB for this .. I am using ExpressPCB freeware soft .. seams very handy tool :)But however I do not seem to find a way to do these pcb's without having to do double sided pcb :(

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Guest PoRrEkE

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmz if double sided can't be done easely .. why not put 2 PCB's 1 after the other ... :(3 layers would be extremely handy but then the pins of my displays would be to short :(

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Guest mbessler

>> Then it depends on how many displays you need in a row.>You'd need>> boards at least for 3,4, and 5 displays in a block.>>I think you can as well make 5 cards and cut off the part you>don't neef IF and only if it gets in the way. Otherwise just>don't use the 2 or 1 spaces.There are two problems with this approach: 1. interfacing: In order to avoid awkward wiring between the displays and the driver board you might not wanna split up the common cathodes.2. cutting off parts of the PCB can short or rip traces. And if you leave'em together, it might not fit behind the panel where the displays are meant for.Another thing that would bother me is the mounting of the display pcbs to the panels. Some places might work with a standard arrangement, others might not.Manuel

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