Gear LED cirquit (electronic specialists .. little help...

[Guest PoRrEkE]

Somehow it does work, although not as it should.I used a 4027 to replace the relais from the first circuit diagram here.The time the 555 outputs is now near to 1 second because I took 10uF capacitors which I will change to 1uF .. this should bring time around 10 seconds which I then can tune because I use trimmers instead of fixed value resistors to go on that line. (R1)Now I have the problem that the 555 output signal is high and becomes low for some time (instead of being low and going high for some time) :?Also the 4027 stays open because I have no clock but I will try to debounce the push button (analogue to what I read from the net .. no idea though what "debouncing a switch" means .. but they say it works .. I'll give that a shot).Either way, so far so good :D I am happy that nothing exploded when I put the 12V on and that no leds or IC's seem to burn :-lol

[Guest Erups]

>Somehow it does work, although not as it should.HAppy :-D>Now I have the problem that the 555 output signal is high and>becomes low for some time (instead of being low and going high>for some time) :?If it is exactly reversed, you can use a NOT port that simply inverts the logic levels.You can dinf them in the same category of AND OR etc ports.>Also the 4027 stays open because I have no clock but I will>try to debounce the push button (analogue to what I read from>the net .. no idea though what "debouncing a switch" means ..>but they say it works .. I'll give that a shot).I am not clear on this eighter.You need to "debounce a switch" when the device receiving the input, does not receive a single inpulse, but multiple.In mechanical switches this is due to contacts bouncing (thus makeing multiple fast contacts) before reaching equilibrium, and need to be debounced; hence the name.But i do not understand exactly how this would make the 4027 not stay open...

[Guest PoRrEkE]

I've almost got this thing finished. Also I learned that my initial plan is possible. There ARE transistors that are default open and default closed. So no more need of the NAND (NOT) chip!Now I still got to make the flipflop work and than it's almost finished. Something goos wrong with the blue led at the moment.

[Guest PoRrEkE]

Blue led should be fixed later tonight.I went to the shop and told him I get 11 Volts at the middle pin of this NPN transistor but that it doesn't closes. He said that is too much so I got a new one and a resistor.Also I will try to make the part of the cirquit of the flipflop exactly like the one I found on the net.If that doesn't work I will have to use a real switch.So I will have a switch & a push button which I then should operate at the exact same time :sElse I have to use a hardware switch & find some IC or cirquit that changes it to a pulse as if I had a push button ....

[Guest PoRrEkE]

victory is almost mine! :Dthe blue led is working and toggles compared to the green ones.now all left to do is an electronic "switch" to keep the logic gear-position .. the JK flipflop seems harder to get to work than I thought :(

[Guest PoRrEkE]

This is it.I figured that if I needed a switch in the system to monitor gear up/down position .. why use a logic flipflop and not just a switch mounted on the gear lever.A switch (S2) should be positioned such that when the gear lever is selected down, the switch is pushed. Ideal for this is switch with a metal lever.http://www1.nl.conrad.com/m/7000_7999/7000...B_00_FB.EPS.jpgAs the one on the left.The push button should be made such that when the gear lever travels and passes the center position, the push button is pressed. (obviously if your gear lever has a center position then put it a bit lower).Than all this should work fine :)http://users.skynet.be/plipke/Schema.GIF

[Guest sellb]

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