Flight Dynamics Fixed?

[Guest SoarPics]

I wouldn't give up on your CH hardware yet.Many of the problems folks are experiencing can be attributed to bad or dirty pots. A pot, by its design, will start causing problems at some point in time. Like all devices, some are better than others. I use these two products in my rudder pedals and throttle pots. One is a cleaner, the other is a sealer. They are outstanding.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...r=341-200&DID=7http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...r=341-200&DID=7Pots are things many of us don't give much thought to. But over time they get dirty. Typically, arcing begins between the wiper and carbon conductor face. This only gets worse with more use... the arcing creates even more residue and gunk, which creates even more (and usually worse) arcing. The biggest problem in all this is the device's inability to consistently return to the zero point. Your software may be showing that all is well, but mechanically the pot won't return to zero. Thus the aircraft attitude "hunting" comes into play, as well as off zero signals. The natural assumption is to increase the null zone... which is a short term fix. With more arcing you'll have no choice but to increase the null zones. And then there will be more and worse arcing... with even more null zone adjustment.The pots used in most controllers are not, shall we say, high end products. Which is why I favor the Hall Effects Sensors. They are maintenance free, no parts ever touch each other, and they'll work the same way for years. But they're not cheap... $50US each. Quality always costs!

[Guest byoung]

Hey Greg,Very good points.. But how do I proceed?Clean them first, or replace them?Would the Hall Effects Sensors work in the CH Yoke and / or Pedals?Are they easy to install?Of course it would void the warranty with CH products. But that is OK if I can get them to work - better.Barry

[Guest SoarPics]

Definetely clean and treat them first.Don't know if the HE Sensors would work in the CH gear. I've designed my gimbals to work with them specifically. I'm sure you could make them work.But the products I linked to will make a huge difference... for less money and time spent.

[Guest byoung]

Hey Greg,Do I just open them up and spray all the POTS??Thanks..Barry

[Guest byoung]

Greg,Can I get this cleaner at local electronics distributors?Barry

[Guest SoarPics]

That's what I did on the TM pots. Both products I linked to are low viscosity with very good capillary action. They find their way to the trouble spots. It's all pretty simple to do... the toughest part may be just getting to the pots themselves. Follow the directions on the products. I'm really impressed with them (as a short term fix until I can fit HE Sensors to my throttle and rudder pedals ;) ).

[Guest SoarPics]

Don't know about getting it locally... I've never looked at any electronics stores in my area. I simply ordered it from Parts Express.Definetely worth the money. They'll prolong the life of the pots AND enhance your simming experience. Even if the pots aren't causing the problems you've mentioned, the cleaner and sealer will add longevity to your hardware.

[Guest]

There have been real-world pilots on the MSFS team for a long time. Even some of the marketing guys are accomplished pilots. I don't think the flight dynamics issues are the result of the team not knowing what real flight feels like.I don't have a problem with flight dynamics per se, and I've enjoyed all aspects of FS2002 with the exception of one. ATC. If the MS team is loaded with real world aviators, then can they explain why ATC assigns illegitimate altitudes above 280? And why, when eastbound in the approach environment, am I given even number altitude instructions and vice versa? It might behoove the MS team to study the FAR/AIM guide as to proper altitude assignment before releasing a product. I just watched the video on Maury's review last night, and true to form these issues were not addressed in the revamping of ATC. The Lear in the video was told to climb and maintain FL320? I'd be curious to know why with all this aviation knowledge on their team they haven't corrected this problem.

[Guest byoung]

Greg,Ordering it now...How about cleaning the Yoke? Can I use it on that as well? Or should I use WD 40 on the Yoke Shaft?Barry

[Guest cw1011]

Another thing to do is install the latest FSUIPC and 1) click the boxes for spike suppression for controls, and 2) set the taxi wind suppressor to ON. Both will go a long way to helping with ground handling problems, especially with CH pedals. Regarding the control spike eliminator, I'm guessing that the program samples the data inputs from the controllers and averages the spikes out. Nice thing about computers is they can do this fast enough that there is no performance hit. That's how the Cougar works - the Thrustmaster software samples the data input from the stick before the computer gets it and gives a clean input. I'm not convinced you need to buy replacement pots etc for the Cougar - if the sampling works, the difference would be quite small. Cleaning is probably a good idea.

[someone 0]

I don't use pedals, instead I have an old CH Flightstick that I use as a "rudder stick." I still use auto-coord, but using FSUIPC I disable that when I push the trigger on the flightstick for crosswind landings.As for cleaning the pots, yes they will need cleaning over time, especially if they are unused for a long period. Before you go ripping apart your yoke and pedals, make sure they need cleaning first. Go to the joystick's properties in the control panel. Watch the axis indicator as you move the stick around. If it moves smooth with no jerkieness or sticking, you don't need to clean it.If you do need to clean it, WD40 works fine. That old CH Flightstick I use for rudder, it was sitting at the bottom of my old computer parts pile for over 3 years. When I hooked it up, it was horrible, the thing was jumping and spiking like crazy. I opened it up and squirted WD40 into the pots, and OMG it's as smothe as silk. Don't be shy with the WD40, give it a good bath with the stuff.I thought the default C172 flight model was decent. IRC it flew the right numbers, but it could have been improved. I use a modified air file by Ron Freimuth, it's great. I don't know if it's in the file library, someone sent it to me. As for the 182's, they seemed a bit underpowered for 182's. I've never flowin a 182 in real life, but the FS 182RG flew more like the 172RG I did my comercial training in.

[Guest byoung]

Hello Someone,Well that is the issue... It is pretty smooth when using the CH Control Manager software for Calibration and Testing. I see no spikes, it is smooth.In FS 2002 it is a different story. Using the FSUIPC joystick control tab, the rudders will sometimes stick on a number instead of resetting to zero when the pedals are centered.I can tell when this problem occurs, because I will be taxiing straight as an arrow, and it will start pulling to the right or left without moving the control, even in calm conditions in zero wind. I have had several discussions with CH Products Tech Support and their first solution was to (A) Try a seperate PCI USB Card (which I did and it didn't help.)(:( Upgrade your motherboard to an Intel Chipset. Did that still not much improvement.They indicated that it is a combination of the Windows XP drivers and CH USB Yoke and Pedals. Some people said their yokes worked fine on VIA chipsets. They worked fine on Windows 98, also. It is hit and miss. I have really beat this dead horse to death on the AVSIM forum here. But still awaiting some type of resolution. Unless the unit needs cleaning, I don't understand why I am having such trouble with the not so much the yoke but especially the pedals.I am in the dark here!Barry

[Guest SoarPics]

With all due respect, Someone, an anylyzer is only as good as the filters built into it. My old X-36 looked fine in the Joysticks Properties section, too. But having flown my modded Cougar w/ HE Sensors for over a hundred hours now, I'm convinced that the X-36 pots were spiking badly before it finally died.WD-40 works quite well. But the CAIG products I linked to in an earlier post clean AND seal the carbon conductor. The net result being that they need cleaning far less often.Regards,

[Guest byoung]

Ordered the cleaner and it will be here tomorrow Weather Permitting!Barry

[Guest byoung]

Hey SoarPics,Is there anyway to test the POT once I open the pedals up?Thanks!Barry