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I preffer the usual rice grain size drop in the middle of the CPU, and let the pressure spread it. Steffen, too much paste is a bad idea, not only because it's far less effective, but also because if the TIM spills into the socket you're going to be in deep ######

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My method (which has proven to work each and everyone time till now):A nice long line of paste on one side of the chip, take a credit card, and pull it to the other side, do the same thing 4 times around, while the whole time holding the card at the very low angle. Then in the end, with a little pressure, clean side, pull with the card above the chip scraping off if there is too much (there always is).In the end, put the cooler on it, and then keep turning it couple of times, if possible circular (I can move mine about 2mm in all directions when screws just in, but not tightened).

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I agree with the rice grain method. If you have never done it, I would highly recommend doing a few applications just to get a feel for how far the paste spreads with how much you apply. The only problem I have with spreading the paste is that it's very likely you will have air bubbles - and those aren't so great at conducting heat.

As far as suggestions from OC guides, I have read around that the B3 boards require more voltage in general. So perhaps if you're reading a manual that was written before the whole B3 shenanigans, it's going to suggest lower voltage than what you can run.

Corey Meeks

Flight Simulator - FS2020 | CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 5600X | Video Card - Sapphire RX 5700 XT Main Board - ASUS ROG Strix X570-I mini-ITX | RAM - G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 2x16Gb DDR4 3600Mhz CL16 | Monitor - DELL 38" U3818DW (3840x1600) | Case - Cooler Master NR200 | CPU Cooling - Noctua NH-U12A | Power Supply - Corsair SF750 | 6x Phanteks T30 120x30mm Fans

Download: FSXMark11 Benchmark and post results here

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What I gather out of this video, the best method is a cross? I have always been running successfully with a thermal compound spread over the whole CPU and then just slide a cooler a bit to get the air out as much as possible. I really have no idea if it works properly, but my temps are OK.

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I preffer the usual rice grain size drop in the middle of the CPU, and let the pressure spread it. Steffen, too much paste is a bad idea, not only because it's far less effective, but also because if the TIM spills into the socket you're going to be in deep ######
I am with Dazz on this one. It's probably the reason your CPU temps are so high. I mean re-consider the whole cooler installation.Gerald R.http://www.multicrewxp.com

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I´m giong to make the adviced changes in the BIOS and then a qiuck test how the temps behave. If the lower voltages don´t bring it down, I´ll have to think about my cooling concept again. Btw. what´s about the RAM? Currently it´s running on 1600MHz and CL-7-9-7. Is this ok or should I speed up the RAM a bit?Update: Just made a little OCCT test with the new setting. The Vcore was aweful high, about 1.4V and the temps got a bit hotter. Thery were in the range of 82-92°C. I´ve encountered one strange thing through the tests: The first core is always the coolest whereas core#2 is the hottest. Is this normal?Going to revert to the old setting and readjust the cooler. Then I´ll hopefully get the right temperatures.

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Reverted back to the original setting. The Vcore is fine now just below 1.35V and the temps were between 80 and 85°C in a 10 min OCCT test. Now I try to do some FSXMark11 tests and check the temperature in FSX.I´m currently on testing in FSX. Sinnce I´ve installed and activated the new installation, my one is also working as it seems to be activated too. I don´t know why but I´ve lost my whole Scenery.cfg and the FSX.cfg, so it´ll be a long way till I´m fully setted up again. Also the temp´s are quite good. The highest I´ve noticed with realtemp running in the backround and flying with the default/OZx Bell 206 over PNW were arround 70°C. I don´t know why they now are that deep and it I use OCCT they´ll go up to 85°C.

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Last OCCT test gave me temperatures of about 72°C at it´s highest. I did test it with case open and with case closed but the temperatures din´t change that much. Just to make sure that there isn´t a heat jam in the case. All fans checked and they´re correctly installed and setted up. Could it be that my high temperatures were because of the fact I´ve choosen "Silent" as the CPU fan´s mode in the BIOS? Now it´s running on "Standard".Another thing about the BIOS. In the past I had twice the problem that the system won´t wake up from sleep until I clear the BIOS via removing the batterie. Does a newer BIOS version corect that issue? Btw. I´m using version 1502.

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please Steffen, answer these questions (the ones you have not answered already)

1.- What's your full load Vcore? 2.- How did you install the cooler (orientation, where did you plug the fan(s) to)? 3.- How many fans does the Mugen have installed and what speed are they running?4.- what TIM did you use, how much and how did you apply it? 5.-Do you have better temps if you remove the side cover of the case?

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Sorry dario that I hadn´t answered them earlier.1. The Vcore under full load varies between 1.328 V and 1.344 V.2+3. See attached picture. Maybe a push/pull-config might help?4. I used Arctic Silver 5. Applied it in several lines on the CPU and tried to spread it with the peak of the injection the TIM was inside.5. Made a test with removed cover and the temps were in the range of 74-79°C._MG_0039.jpgBtw. Just run OCCT again to gain the Vcore and the temps were again up tp 87°C. In FSX I had a lot lower temps of 77°C or less.

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Download Speedfan and make sure you CPU and chassis fans are running fast enough.Reseat your Mugen II. This time apply the TIM properly. Be careful not to spill any TIM in the socket. When you remove the heatsink, make sure you unlock the socket lever first or you may bend some pins. Remove all the TIM with isopropyl alcohol from the CPU and reapply: just a rice grain size dropThe side cover test is to know if your airflow is ok. After some time of stress testing, remove the side of the case and check if temps drop and how much. If they do, your airflow in not right

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Download Speedfan and make sure you CPU and chassis fans are running fast enough.Reseat your Mugen II. This time apply the TIM properly. Be careful not to spill any TIM in the socket. When you remove the heatsink, make sure you unlock the socket lever first or you may bend some pins. Remove all the TIM with isopropyl alcohol from the CPU and reapply: just a rice grain size dropThe side cover test is to know if your airflow is ok. After some time of stress testing, remove the side of the case and check if temps drop and how much. If they do, your airflow in not right
Ok, but the general way how the Mugen is seated is all right, or should the fan show in another direction? Do I need to use this isopropyl alcohol or can I also use something else like a cleaning sheet?

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Ok, but the general way how the Mugen is seated is all right, or should the fan show in another direction? Do I need to use this isopropyl alcohol or can I also use something else like a cleaning sheet?
The cooler seems ok, the fan is blowing air towards the back of the case right?I have changed CPU's without isopropyl, shouldn't be a problem given that the TIM was recently applied. Just make sure you don't use a cloth that will leave fibers and carefully remove all of the TIM without staining the contacts

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The cooler seems ok, the fan is blowing air towards the back of the case right?I have changed CPU's without isopropyl, shouldn't be a problem given that the TIM was recently applied. Just make sure you don't use a cloth that will leave fibers and carefully remove all of the TIM without staining the contacts
Ok. Ihen I´ll do this tomorow. If this doesn´t help, I´ll consider getting water cooling (My mum will freak out when I do this!)

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