Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

The AVSIM Community

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

3770K de-lidded + Liquid Metal Ultra results...

Featured Replies

  • Replies 75
  • Views 15k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sure we fly , and yes à married to and à grandfather to

 

Agree with tech and Efrain

Not to be rude , was overclocking My first computer à ABC80

Yes aim Old

 

 

Just ignore that jerk guys

Here is a test on my New build its 100% in IBT @5.4 think 5.5 is possible after some tuning.

 

So nice to se your new build up and running Hasse.

 

build it my self only buy the Evap without socket kit.

the cost for me include used Chassi and Evap 300 bucks

 

Not more? Maybe something I should consider to start playing with...

 

It seems to me that you clever folks are more into the hardware tweaking/upgrading/clocking thing than actually flying FSX, right Dazz, Westman and TechguyMaxC?!

 

I feel like this migh apply to me as well. I genuinly enjoy flying around in FSX and to me the recent half rate V-sync tweak has made it soo much more enjoyable. Computer hardware has become a genuine interest if mine over the last 10+ years and I find it fascinating figuring out how the hardware of today still can benefit FSX even thou it's an "old" piece of software. Yes, I would get a lot more FSX flying done if I didn't enjoy tinkering with hardware so much. And yes, I'm also enjoying Married life, and that has to take up a lot of time. But I have to say that my wife is tolerating my hobbies quite well. :rolleyes: Never the less, I seriously enjoy flying. Both at work and privatly. In real life and in FSX. They all complement each other.

  • 2 weeks later...

Jeez that refrigerated pc setup must be noisy as heck, no?

 

Would like to see the frame rate improvements of a 3.8GHz clock vs 5.5GHz, like the other guy said, is it really worth it?

 

Efrain, I wanted to thank you for posting the specifics for lapping (grit etc... what I didn't have at home I found at Autozone or Amazon) and your results. Was kind of surprised you start at 180... but I guess could be like that guy in Alain's vid and start at 400... and spend an hour and go thru a couple sheets. :Big Grin:

 

Couple quick questions...

 

Do you tape up the cpu with masking tape (like "he" did in the vid)? Seems like not a bad idea except looked like he was trapping sanding material between the IHS and the tape (and I DON'T want to get that on the pins :unsure2:).

 

Other thing... wet or dry (i.e. do you use water)?

 

Read this thread and was happy to contemplate de-lidding, then read this thread and am having second thoughts. A pretty high casualty rate.

 

For the love of St. Pete... why not just post a picture (not you Alan... than nut in the thread you posted) of your cpu with a hammer and chisel. I mean just... why not? :yahoo:

 

Exactly! I've seen a video where a guy used a pocket knife and a hammer. Effin insane!

 

Ah...well... there you have it...

 

Looking forward to this process with the LMU... although I am kicking the idea around of using Timtronics Grey Ice 4200 (or something else) for the IHS to H100 (bit scared here w/ LMU).

 

Although... might be interesting to "glue" two small pieces of copper plate (after lapping) and give it a week or two in a clamp... then see how ArctiClean (tim remover) or a solvent like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) does dissolving the LMU bond.

 

Stay safe.

-Rob

then see how ArctiClean (tim remover) or a solvent like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) does dissolving the LMU bond.

 

 

Hello

It wont, the two pieces of copper will be as good as soldered together.

Been there in the past , never again, I ended up with an E8600 stuck to a corsair H50 and nearly wrecked both getting them apart and cleaned up again.

Hello

It wont, the two pieces of copper will be as good as soldered together.

Been there in the past , never again, I ended up with an E8600 stuck to a corsair H50 and nearly wrecked both getting them apart and cleaned up again.

 

Funny, I just took my loop apart to lap the IHS and waterblock base, they were by no means soldered together. LMU residue was left over and 91% Iso wouldn't take all of it off so I'm forced to lap anyway, but it all came off the CPU die and the underside of the IHS just fine.

Hello

Try it again after running for a couple of months, then tell me how you get on

LMU residue was left over and 91% Iso wouldn't take all of it off so I'm forced to lap anyway, but it all came off the CPU die and the underside of the IHS just fine.

 

Care to experiment with MEK? You should be able to find at a hardware store like Lowe's...

 

Need to be careful with it as it will dissolve wood finishes... plastics... in a heartbeat. Don't think I would use on the cpu after the IHS is removed... might melt the silicon (it's the universal cleaning solvent in aircraft maintenance). Eye protection needed too.

  • Author
  • Commercial Member

Great Ozzie, I didn't tape it because when I lapped the IHS, it was off the cpu. The cpu was safe and sound watching from the sidelines. lol

 

As for the horror stories about the IHS sticking to the waterblock... As long as it is not the cpu die sticking to the IHS, I couldn't care less. Heck, if the IHS fuses to the cpu die, I will have accomplished what we all wish Intel did in the first place! haha

Regards,

Efrain Ruiz
LiveDISPATCH @ http://www.livedispatch.org (CLOSED) ☹️

Hello

Try it again after running for a couple of months, then tell me how you get on

 

I did. I built this machine in April on Ivy Bridge launch day. I've been changing parts and tweaking the OC for the last 4 months but the water cooling has been setup for a couple months. Now if you're meaning to run it at 100% load 24x7 for 2 months I'm not going to do that to begin with.

 

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding your meaning though. By "soldered" do you mean that the LM has bonded to each mating surface or that the mating surfaces are now semi-permanently joined together? As I said, there was unremovable residue on the water block and a bit on the top of the IHS but the rest was removable.

Great Ozzie, I didn't tape it because when I lapped the IHS, it was off the cpu.

 

Ok that makes sense... thanks Efrain. I reckon you wet sanded then? (disregard... I see the 3000 says water only... more I think about it water would be best for the other grits).

 

yeah if the die bonds to the IHS all the better I reckon.

 

Thanks

-Rob

hahahaha I remember always opening up every electronic appliance my parents would buy, just so I could take a look at the inner workings and figure out on the own what did what and how things worked. Good times!

 

I took a video of myself delidding the second CPU but just haven't edited and uploaded it to YouTube. Let me see if I can do it today so you can take a look.

 

Still pending! :lol:

 

Thanks,

Dirk.

So how does FSX perform with addons/scenery? Tweaking is fun etc etc but so is flying!

My Liveries | FAA ZMP | PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 64GB 6000 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.