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ohsirus

Simpit Running

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More soldering today, one more harness and should be done with the MIP. Connecting wires is soooo boring, OMG!

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First Officer side of annunciators.

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Remember, Cable ties are your friend.

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Package from France finally arrived. My labels are here and I'm really impressed with the quality of them, can't wait to attach them.

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Was planning on starting the DU panel wiring, but noticed that all my switches are 30Deg increments and the majority of the panels are 45Deg increment labeled. So do I just go ahead and wire them up and live with it or get replacements. Mouser electronics to the rescue, ordered six 45 Deg switches. Can still go ahead and solder/wire up the extender cables to the Sys-4 card. I already have the layout planned out so will probably just do the prep work up to the switch. Want to attach my Labels and LEDs to the MIP, but waiting for my black adhesive to be delivered. Was planning on Hot Glueing the LEDs to the MIP, but PVC sheets are highly susceptible to heat and didn't want to risk it.

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Kudos on your ruthless perseverance...the project looks amazing!!! Totally empathize with you on the 'two steps forward, three steps back' journey ;)

 

On the DU's, are those encoders or pots? you indicated switches, so I was wondering for own future reference. If you had a Mouser ref# handy for the 45deg. ones, that would be awesome.

 

Thanks so much for all the updates and info during your build! It's so helpful as a reference!!

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Kudos on your ruthless perseverance...the project looks amazing!!! Totally empathize with you on the 'two steps forward, three steps back' journey ;)

 

On the DU's, are those encoders or pots? you indicated switches, so I was wondering for own future reference. If you had a Mouser ref# handy for the 45deg. ones, that would be awesome.

 

Thanks so much for all the updates and info during your build! It's so helpful as a reference!!

Thanks! The DU selectors are switches. For the actual DUs (Brightness) I am planning to use encoders as not all of my software supports pots for the brightness. I will pass the mouser ref# once they arrive and I verify that they are the correct ones. Mouser goes too in-depth on the selections and I had to wing it.

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Sounds good, thanks :) I know, sometimes I feel like I spend more time reading component datasheets than flying these days...!

 

Cheers!!

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Annunciators Hot Glued in.

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Lights, Camera, Action. Getting closer. Want to add the flap gauge tomorrow and knock out the autobrake section. and button up the AFDS section.

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Added a few more panels. Had two bad switches(Figure the odds) ENG/SYS and had to replace them. Finished off the majority of the MIP. Unfortunately I didn't receive all my switches from Mouser so couldn't complete the DU selector panels. OMG the wires it takes for something that seems so simple. 

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The connectors for the FDS SYS cards have an annoying lock that makes them a chore to remove. Great for a motion sim, but I experiment alot so took my dremel sander and shaved them off. Easy on and off now.

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While waiting for a few more pieces of my MIP to arrive decided to look into how I would wire up the Fire Panel, so I laid out the pieces.

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Most everything is straight forward, but the Fire handles are not designed with illumination in mind. I can live without the pull turn feature, but I have to figure out a way to light the handles.

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Maybe drill a hole for wires to imbed an led into the head of the switch? Hmmm Still experimenting.

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Started adding my pleather sheet to the glarewing to get rid of the MDF look. Still working the final cuts/dimensions. Going to need he MIP in place to get it right. Also my crappy  lower DU keeps dropping, so I'm going to need to figure out a way to properly secure it. 2 Steps forward.

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On the plus side, I attached the final plates to the MIP. Still can't start the backlighting as I'm waiting on some LEDs for the clocks. Well maybe I can prep for the LEDs arrival.

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Hopefully I can get a little more motivated to power thru the little I have rest for this part and move to making the throttle stand and start wiring the pedestal. Starting to get a little burnt out.

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I could barely put together a simple panel, wiring all this, you got immense patience to even get this far.

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I could barely put together a simple panel, wiring all this, you got immense patience to even get this far.

 

I try to do a little at a time as I will get bored.

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Ohsirus, great job so far!

 

Is it functional yet or do you at least have a functioning PC where you can fly every now and then?

 

If no, then I suggest you set one up quick, otherwise you will burn up and get unmotivated quickly. Happens to all of us cockpit builders.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Fantastic thread, so beyond my capabilities and super fun to follow. Thanks for sharing!

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Ohsirus, great job so far!

 

Is it functional yet or do you at least have a functioning PC where you can fly every now and then?

 

If no, then I suggest you set one up quick, otherwise you will burn up and get unmotivated quickly. Happens to all of us cockpit builders.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

I've been tinkering on my laptop again. Was thinking of setting up my GA pit again so I could get some use of my Simroom. Think it would be easier if I could drive down the street to the 737 Simulation store.

 

 

Fantastic thread, so beyond my capabilities and super fun to follow. Thanks for sharing!

 

Trust me, if I can do it you can too. This is a learning process for me. I think If I had to do it again to the point I am now, It would have been way cheaper and a heck of alot easier.

 

Decided to power thru the backlight since it was a dreary day. I really wanted to have the clocks in place first, but since they are coming from Hong Kong it might be a minute. Decided to use the Warm white double density LEd strips, gives a slight yellow bulby look than the pure bright white.

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Was going to just run the entire strip along the panels to avoid splicing them, but it would have been a huge waste. The down side with splicing them though is the wire can easily come off the solder pad while you are stringing them up. I had planned to hot glue them to the backside, but after two wires came off and I had to reheat the glue to remove decided to just use strong tape. I also have the led strips sort of looped behind the plates to have it glow on them rather than the flush hot spot look.

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Backlights on.

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Will have to tweak them some more once they are in place, but should be minor pull/angle/tape. Oh yeah, Have to say if you plan on hot glueing LEDs into place get some black glue sticks. They prevent any stray lights from seeping into your LEDs.

 

 

 

 

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So I wanted to add some animation to my dummy clocks. I orignally ordered a 4 dollar DIY Clock kit to add sweep animation.

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After some thinking I wanted to up the ante, but could not see spending too much for a clock. Luckily after searching Ebay I found some led I thought might fit for 9 dollars each, 0.28 12V blue LED clocks.

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Since I needed 4 they sent them in pairs, just need a slight bend to separate them, but I don't need to separate them for my purpose.

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Hooked it up to my dimmer as I thought they might be dimmable, but found out they are not. Either on or off. I like it, just need to test how it will look backlit and whether or not to go ahead and add the arm sweep. The button is just to set the clock.

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Got the LEDs hot glued into place.
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Time to work on the backlight. Didn't want a repeat of the other day with having wires popping off the solder pads, so I used heat

shrink on the ends.
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Got the backlight done, time to test out my power bus bar. Since the clocks/backlights/dimmers all need 12v needed a way to

ditribute power to them evenly.
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Time to test the clocks and final check before moving the MIP face back to the frame.
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What a nightmare fishing wires around trying to get the face into place. So happy I took the extra time and made sure all my

solder connections were strong and the heat shrink added a little more support as it took some tugs/pulls to get them all routed.
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Tweaking the light holes now and latches to hold the MIP face.

 

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So today worked a little on the Gear Lever and Glare Wings. I had to redo the glare wing switch cabling as I needed them to share connections because I miscalculated free ports on my Sys-4 card. The beauty of FDS sys cards is that you don't have to label your connections, but it sucks when you have to trace a wire out and you didn't label them before hand. So I ended up combing the two glares and gear lever to one port. Also went ahead and mounted it finally. Feels sturdy. Next up redo lower Eicas for the hundredth time. Ouch the wirenest on top!

 

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My FO is impressed.

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Decided it was time to tackle the CDU bay. Needed to find a better way to mount the lower screen. All my previous attempts failed. I wanted something strong, but not so permanent a fix. I remembered 3M dual lock strips and howw the provide a strong rigid hold, which is what was needed. So Voila, worked way better than I thought.

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So excited to get it hooked up, then Bam!, my orignal issue with the FMC reared its ugly head again.

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If you recall when my FMC arrived the Power connector wasn't attached securely and I had to take it part pull it out and reseat it a few times, but it never quite fit the slot correctly. So to prevent any future issues this time, I took the Hot Glue to it.

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Installed the CDU section again and also added a monitor to work on pc updates/configs as it's near impossible to do anything with all your monitors hidden by frames.

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Going to have to figure out a way to shut the FMC down along with all the other monitors. Now I have to unplug it from the wall.

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Started working on the lower panels. Adding the Dimmers, I have a green circuit board one (smaller shaft, better solder joints) and a red circuit board (longer shaft, shoddy solder joints).

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All the Red circuit board ones had to be redone, as the wires were barely soldered on, no heatshrink, and appeared to be in poor condition.

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Fixed.

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Next I needed a crash course on Encoders and POTs. I had been debating on what would be best for the DU brightness controls. I decided to go with encoders as they would prove more versatile. I broke out the LeoBodnar and spent some time learning what was what and who is who. Pretty straight forward board, love the fact I only have to solder one end.

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Yay, DU test works!

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Tomorrow hope to wire up the capt Side.

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Great work, bro!! Is that my old landing gear lever?

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

 

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Such a cool project! Wish I had the space to do something like this.

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Major props to you, sir. Honestly, what fantastic development from what it was to where it is now. If you ever need motivation, compare the first few pictures on the thread to some of the last. Wow.

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Now your talking, I love the LeoBodnar controllers, I have three of them controlling a bank of rotary encoders. Looking good.

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Great work, bro!! Is that my old landing gear lever?

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

Yep. Just had a little stand to it.

 

Such a cool project! Wish I had the space to do something like this.

 

Seen some really nice Desktop ones ala FlyEngravity.

 

Now your talking, I love the LeoBodnar controllers, I have three of them controlling a bank of rotary encoders. Looking good.

 

Is it possible to share the grounds on the encoders? Would love to link mine, save wire.

 

Unfortunately didn't get what I wanted completed today. Did manage to affix the dimmer boards to the lower panel and started soldering the LED backlighting for it. Such a tight area I need to run three strips end to end. One wire popped loose and can't use heat shrink due to the angle I need. Just researched and see alot of people use hot glue to hold and insulate. Sounds like a plan I'm going to use.
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