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jam321

Building FSX Computer.

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Well I've taken all your advice so now i'm thinking off the following:

PSU - OCZ 700W ModXstream Pro Power Supply

MOBO - Asus Z87-Pro

CPU - Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz

GPU - Gigabyte GTX 760 OC Windforce 2GB

RAM - G-Skill 16GB (4x4GB) 2400MHz

MEMORY - Western Digital 2TB RED 3.5"SATA 6GB/s 64MB

Corsair Hydro Series H110 280mm

How much do you want to overclock? You might not have to do the whole water cooling yada yada. Edited by linux731

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Well I wasn't sure if I wanted to overclock originally but now I'm thinking I should. Is it easy to overclock? and if I did, it would be to just over 4GHz.

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Except for the fact that the cheapest 760 is only 10 dollars more than the cheapest 660ti. 

 

 

 

The 760 is in-between the 660ti, and the 670 in terms of performance. It kills the 660 in every way.

If the difference between the two cards is only $10 as stated, the 760 would be the logical choice. The two cards are in the same performance class, just different generations. The 760 scores slightly better in performance tests but its not a night and day difference. According to a GPUBoss review, they ranked the 760 7.8 out of 10 vs a 7.7 for the 660ti. The 670 and in particular the 670FTW shares the basic design architecture with the 680 and is only slightly slower. Regards

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Well the higher the OC the better. However, if you have a ''bad" video card next to a CPU with a high clock, you might get performance issues. However, I don't think you will have any issues with that card. I'm at 4.4 ghz and with high detailed scenery, aircraft, and weather I get between 18-40 FPS. If you want to overclock higher than 4.4, get a water cooler. I currently use air cooling but i'm going to upgrade soon (H100i corsair ;) )

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Well I wasn't sure if I wanted to overclock originally but now I'm thinking I should. Is it easy to overclock? and if I did, it would be to just over 4GHz.

Yeah, it's fairly easy. You just need to be patient with the stress testing.

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I think I'll overclock it then! and yes I am going to get a water cooler, in fact the corsair h100i too.

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If you decide to use water and the big Corsair, make sure that the case for the build can handle the radiator. I can only imagine getting all the parts ready and then not finding a spot for the radiator...

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I think I'll overclock it then! and yes I am going to get a water cooler, in fact the corsair h100i too.

 

Good choice!

If you decide to use water and the big Corsair, make sure that the case for the build can handle the radiator. I can only imagine getting all the parts ready and then not finding a spot for the radiator...

This. Also, make sure your case is large enough for all your parts (i.e., video card, memory (the height, heatsink, etc.), CPU cooler, etc.).

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jam321, on 28 Jun 2013 - 11:04 PM, said:

I think I'll overclock it then! and yes I am going to get a water cooler, in fact the corsair h100i too.

Do consider that it is NOT essential to buy a closed loop water cooler.

 

The Noctua NH-D14 is cooler than the H100i by FOUR degrees under load, and very importantly the NH-D14 is quieter than the H100i at full RPM by a full 5 DBA.

 

The Corsair H110 is EQUAL to the Nh-D14 in terms of cooling. It's fairly quiet, almost as quiet as the D14.

 

The variable that foxes people is fan RPM. When we eliminate the fan variable and just look at the heat sink/radiator, block, pump efficiency the picture changes, and the true efficiency of top of the range air coolers is revealed.

 

the Thermalright Silver Arrow out performs the NH-D14 by a fraction, so that too is a good choice.

 

Importantly, the D14 and Silver Arrow are air coolers, thus there is zero chance of leaks. The disadvantage is that they are huge.

 

Not trying to put you off all-in-one water coolers, I've considered the H110 myself, just trying to point out that the opinion that you MUST buy one and that there is no other choice is totally wrong.

 

 

Temps here, overclocked and under load...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,13.html

 

H100i 76 degrees

Kraken X60 70 degrees

Corsair H110 72 degrees

NH-D14 72 degrees

 

Noise levels here...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,11.html

 

There's literally ONE DBA between the H110 and NH-D14. Such a small difference shouldn't be audible to anyone.

 

The H100i is 5 DBA louder than the NH-D14.

 

There's no substitute for surface area, the NH-D14 and Silver Arrow have it in bucket loads... as does the H110.

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Well I was going to get the Fractal Designs R4 Case. Does anyone know if it fits those coolers mentioned?

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Well I was going to get the Fractal Designs R4 Case. Does anyone know if it fits those coolers mentioned?

 

 

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/fractal_designs_r4_review/1

 

 

 

The new model is wider and slightly taller than the older version, the extra girth gives you extra cable management room behind the motherboard tray and also a 140mm fan at the back end of the case too. The 140mm fan comes hand in hand with extra room in the business side of the case which allows you to fit much larger CPU heatsinks, saying that the NH-D14 fit in the R3 albeit a little on the snug side. Talking of CPU heatsinks as a general rule of thumb we would say this case does NOT support the H100, in some remote cases you may get it in around your kit but for 99% of you we would say its a no no.

 

 

 

Why not wait for the Corsair R330R.

 

http://www.corsair.com/us/330r

 

Quiet but still with great airflow so they say.

 

Or they Air 540...

 

http://www.corsair.com/us/pc-cases/carbide-series-pc-case/carbide-series-air-540-high-airflow-atx-cube-case.html

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Would recommend a different brand PSU.  Would never have an OCZ again, after mine took out my P67 motherboard after only 6 months.  Try a corsair or an antec


P3D v4.5 MSFS2020 Hisense 50" 4K TV

Ryzen 5800X, 32gb DDR 3600mhz, MSI B550 PRO VDH WiFi, MSI 6900XT Z Trio, Gammaxx L360, 1TB NVMe Boot/FS2020 Drive, 1TB NVMe P3D Drive, 1Tb Crucial SSD Storage Drive, Saitek Yoke, Pedals, Radio Panel, Switch Panel, 2 x FiPs

UKV6427

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Would recommend a different brand PSU. Would never have an OCZ again, after mine took out my P67 motherboard after only 6 months. Try a corsair or an antec

I have a Seasonic PSU and it's working great. I recommend them as well.

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Corsair

Seasonic

Enermax

Antec...

 

Are all good PSU's. Seasonic and Corsair are my number one choices.

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Ok, now on my list is:

PSU - Corsair 2013 Gaming Series 700W 80+ Bronze

MOBO - Asus Z87-Pro

CPU - Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz Haswell

GPU - Gigabyte GTX 760 OC Windforce 2GB

RAM - G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) 2400MHz

MEMORY - Western Digital 1TB BLACK 3.5"SATA 6GB/s 64MB 

Corsair Hydro Series H100i 

 

I think I'm very happy with this and believe it is the best I can get for the money.. will everything work together? I'm conscious I'm buying this and it wont work...

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