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Hello,
wich would be a good cooler or watercooler to o/c my system:

 

ASUS PEX58D PREMIUM
Intel core i7 980X 3.33GHz 12MB 1366 Six-Core
ZOTAC GTX 480 1536MB GDDR5 C/HDMI PCI-EXP
ATX Cooler Master HAF 922 BLACK + SevenTeam 1000W ST-1000EAZ
HD Seagate 1TB 7200RPM 32MB SATA II (FOR WINDOWS 7)
HD WD VelociRaptor 600 GB, SATA 3 Gb/s, Cache 32 MB, 10.000 RPM (FOR FSX)
XMS3 Corsair 6GB (3x2GB) DDR 3 1600 CAS 7-8-7-20 1.65V
LG W2353V MONITOR WIDESCREEN 23"
WINDOWS 7 PROFESSIONAL 64bit



Many Thanks,
Lucas.
 

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Laing D5, Black Ice Extreme R360, Koolance CPU 380i, build with 1/2 in. ID Tygon and compression fittings.

 

HLJAMES

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Temps here, overclocked and under load...

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,13.html

H100i 76 degrees
Kraken X60 70 degrees [Noisy higher RPM fans]
Corsair H110 72 degrees [Very quiet]
NH-D14 72 degrees [Very quiet]

Noise levels here...

 

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h110_review,11.html

NH-D14 and H110 are the best in terms of heat sink/radiator efficiency. If they fit in your case.

Some pertain to be better, and do indeed cool a couple of degrees better, but they do so as a result of higher RPM noisy fans, so be warned.

Thermalright Silver Arrow is another choice, both in standard form and the "extreme" with high RPM fans. But be warned, some reviews of the Silver Arrow are a bit negative. Bad RAM clearance and bad fitting.

Full blown custom water cooling rig is obviously the ultimate.

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Whenever I see a thread about cooling, I like to bring up the importance of ambient temperature. For the big majority of people The ambient environment for their hardware is under their desk. However, if you live in a cold climate and can keep your system outdoors and run your cables to where you play then you will have great cooling with your stock block and fan! Well maybe you should still get an after market cooler but ambient temp will have a huge impact on your temps.

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Whenever I see a thread about cooling, I like to bring up the importance of ambient temperature. For the big majority of people The ambient environment for their hardware is under their desk. However, if you live in a cold climate and can keep your system outdoors and run your cables to where you play then you will have great cooling with your stock block and fan! Well maybe you should still get an after market cooler but ambient temp will have a huge impact on your temps.

Very true, ambient temp has a big impact.

 

For most people though locating your PC outdoors is inconvenient, and not at all necessary.

 

Today in the UK it's very warm. 27C, so over 80F, in the bedroom where my PC is located. Despite that I have no issues whatsoever with an overclocked 3770K @ 4.5 GHz. At the temps I'm currently at, even higher ambient wouldn't be an issue. Temps are great.

 

High end coolers and decent enclosures with sizable fans are very efficient in regard to cooling.

 

If you happen to be desperate to squeeze as much out of you overclock as possible, and you happen to be so thrifty that you like the idea of buying a cheap cooler, such measures as locating your PC outside might be worth the inconvenience, but certainly not for the vast majority. Most are quite happy with a 4.5 - 5 GHz overclock, and spending some money on a quality cooler.

 

Super long joystick cable, super long mouse cable, super long keyboard cable, super long sound system cables, super long monitor cable, and having to go outside to insert DVD's, and turn on and off your PC, isn't worth it for a few hundred megahertz more in my opinion.

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Whenever I see a thread about cooling, I like to bring up the importance of ambient temperature. For the big majority of people The ambient environment for their hardware is under their desk. However, if you live in a cold climate and can keep your system outdoors and run your cables to where you play then you will have great cooling with your stock block and fan! Well maybe you should still get an after market cooler but ambient temp will have a huge impact on your temps.

It's an absolutely valid point!  I did this a little differently than putting parts outside--I installed a small thru-the-wall A/C unit 6 years ago and ran my Q9650 using a retail HSF w/ the case cover off so 40 degree air blew at a low flow rate over all interior parts.   Not exactly quiet but since I use headphones that piece didn't matter.  I have a new system now and use the Noctua D-14 and as Martin suggests really no longer need the A/C.  However, since we have hot summers this was half the reason for installing A/C, so I use it on occasion now when it's quite hot just to cool the room.  When the A/C runs now I get crazy low temps o'clocked at 4.3 or 4.4Ghz  Haven't pushed the CPU up to the max yet, but running FSX now w/ the D-14 on the notoriously heat-generatiing Hexacore SB-E processor I'm seeing temps around 52C now overclocked w/ A/C on, and around 62C w/ A/C off, so that's a big difference.  I don't have the case cover off either as the various fans on the HaF X case are perfectly positioned to take advantage of the A/C air flow.


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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Idea!!! put your PC inside the freezer drill holes in the door for the cables then when you switch your PC on you can also grab and ice cold beer.. :P


ATP MEL,CFI,CFII,MEI.

 

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Once you solve the problem of CPU cooling it always leads to 1.5 Volt core voltage limit. Nehalem, Sandy Bridge, Ivy Bridge, Haswell.

 

HLJAMES

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Once you solve the problem of CPU cooling it always leads to 1.5 Volt core voltage limit. Nehalem, Sandy Bridge, Ivy Bridge, Haswell.

 

HLJAMES

No way I'd do 1.5v on i7-3930K I have now.  Just not worth the degradation ;o)


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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Idea!!! put your PC inside the freezer drill holes in the door for the cables then when you switch your PC on you can also grab and ice cold beer.. :P

Very funny but it wouldn't work. The freezer could not handled having a heater inside it!

Now Natures freezer! That's a different ball game. B)

 

I had my i7 920 @ 4.8 ghz with the voltage over 1.7v for a while :lol: and its still alive.

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Very funny but it wouldn't work. The freezer could not handled having a heater inside it!

Now Natures freezer! That's a different ball game. B)

 

I had my i7 920 @ 4.8 ghz with the voltage over 1.7v for a while :lol: and its still alive.

2009 Gulftown used for FSX @ 1.55V still in everyday use!

 

HLJAMES

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What about putting your computer in an insulated box, and then piping in/out outside air through insulated ducts?  Would that maybe work?


~ Arwen ~

 

Home Airfield: KHIE

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What about putting your computer in an insulated box, and then piping in/out outside air through insulated ducts? Would that maybe work?

Probably would. But at the end of the day so would many other approaches. It's about how much trouble you are prepared to go to, how much it would cost, and if it's actually necessary.

 

Even in quite warm environments, standard cooling arrangements usually work quite adequately, even with reasonable overclocks.

 

If you really want to go to town, but while still retaining a semblance of normality, a full custom water cooling loop and a Hailea HC-500A water chiller would be the way to go.

 

And yes, you could pipe the chiller through into another room. I believe they can be quite noisy.

 

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2010/07/20/hailea-hc-500a-water-chiller-review/1

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What about putting your computer in an insulated box, and then piping in/out outside air through insulated ducts?  Would that maybe work?

Yes! Your CPU will reward you for ANY cooling you provide.

CPU cooling is not a new problem, there is a cooling industry, The problem is fear of watercooling.

 

HLJAMES

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Yes! Your CPU will reward you for ANY cooling you provide.

CPU cooling is not a new problem, there is a cooling industry, The problem is fear of watercooling.

 

HLJAMES

My above post was just a suggestion (which I personally don't need).

 

I'm planning on to ordering a new computer in a few weeks, and I admit that I have some fear of using a liquid cooler.  My new computer will have a slightly overclocked i7-4770K, so I need a CPU cooler. I briefly considered a Corsair H100i, but now I'm leaning towards using a Noctua NH-D14 SE2011.  What I didn't like about the Corsair (besides the fact that it was a liquid cooler) was that It would have replaced my case's 200mm top exhaust fan.  With the Noctura, I don't lose any of my case's default fans, and I don't have to worry about it leaking.

 

I live far enough north that my house is rarely hot, and my computer is on my lower level, where the temperature averages about 70 degrees (above 75 degrees is rare).  So I think that I'll be fine.  The only thing I don't like about the Noctua is that it is so huge!


~ Arwen ~

 

Home Airfield: KHIE

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