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That's great news Howard. May have been as I said perhaps, simply an overclock that became unstable over time. I've seen it before. Sometimes when you are already on the edge of stability and don't realise it. A minor reduction in the CPU's capabilities, a natural factor as a CPU ages, nudges the CPU into an unstable state. A good reason why Five Way Optimisation from Asus adds a tad more voltage than purely a stable voltage.

 

I would reset everything to default. Absolutely no overclock. Then run something like ROG RealBence to test for stability at stock settings. As most of us that responded have said, check the CPU temp under load, just in case there was a throttling issue at play.

 

If all good, then rethink your overclock, taking the same steps you would with any overclock. 

:smile:  :wink:


Howard
MSI Mag B650 Tomahawk MB, Ryzen7-7800X3D CPU@5ghz, Arctic AIO II 360 cooler, Nvidia RTX3090 GPU, 32gb DDR5@6000Mhz, SSD/2Tb+SSD/500Gb+OS, Corsair 1000W PSU, Philips BDM4350UC 43" 4K IPS, MFG Crosswinds, TQ6 Throttle, Fulcrum One Yoke
My FlightSim YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@skyhigh776

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The above are good suggestions.

 

One thing that many people overlook is power supplies act as a sort of "shock absorber" for your computer and over time they wear out - to put it simply.

 

A faulty power supply will cause all of the issues you listed, and can kill your computer.  Your PSU should be replaced at least every five years, especially for overclocking.  If you replace the power supply purchase the highest quality you can afford.  For example, I use a Seasonic 660 watt Platinum Series.  Many people argue that an 80 PLUS rating of Platinum is more than needed, however, with overclocking for years at a time you should use the best you can afford.

 

I understand the differences in PSUs, I became an expert in computer hardware, owned my own company, and became a consultant to other companies including those that build computers.

 

I am not saying I am perfect or at God level, however, my experience is vast and very long.  And, I have been overclocking for decades, I initially did it to break hardware in order to find tolerances, now that I am disabled I cannot afford to go that far.

 

I suggest you increase the voltage of your RAM + 2/100 of a volt and increase your voltage on your CPU very slightly.  Also, applying a good TIM on your CPU is a good idea [clean the old off completely],  I still use GELID GC-EXTREME, because it is very good and I have a tube sitting on a shelf in my computer room, although there are a couple of compounds that conduct heat VERY slightly better, I do not expect to change compounds any time soon. 

 

NOTE:  Store the tube of TIM with the tip down, the "oil" or emulsifier has a tendency to migrate to the tip over time if the tube is on it's side, and when you use it after a period of storage time you will get an oily substance before the TIM itself leaves the tube. 

 

These are just a few things important to situations such as yours, including overclocking and I wanted to give you a little history of myself, and wish you good luck on getting your computer running well.

 

EDITED for clarity.

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Your PSU should be replaced at least every five years

 

 

 

Not true that a PSU needs to be replaced "at least" every 5 years. For example Corsair PSU's now have a 10 year warranty. Scrapping a quality PSU and replacing it when it's only half way through it's warranty period would be silly.

 

 

Many people argue that an 80 PLUS rating of Platinum is more than needed, however, with overclocking for years at a time you should use the best you can afford.

 

 

 

80 Plus, Gold, or Platinum is the "efficiency" of the PSU, and it doesn't necessarily relate to the expected lifespan of the PSU. A less efficient PSU, whether you are overclocking or not, on average, wont have a shorter lifespan than a higher efficiency Platinum rated PSU. It will just generate somewhat more heat, and if the PSU is properly specified and not running at max capacity and cooled correctly it's not an issue.

 

A PSU with a lesser efficiency rating isn't a PSU of lesser quality.

 

It's the "quality" of the PSU, the quality of the components, the design choices made by the manufacturer that determines PSU lifespan. Not it's efficiency rating.

 

Furthermore, manufacturers frequently have to make PSU design compromises to achieve a Platinum rating. Thus some have argued that lesser Gold efficiency rated PSU's are more likely to have a longer lifespan.

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The above are good suggestions.

 

One thing that many people overlook is power supplies act as a sort of "shock absorber" for your computer and over time they wear out - to put it simply.

 

A faulty power supply will cause all of the issues you listed, and can kill your computer.  Your PSU should be replaced at least every five years, especially for overclocking.  If you replace the power supply purchase the highest quality you can afford.  For example, I use a Seasonic 660 watt Platinum Series.  Many people argue that an 80 PLUS rating of Platinum is more than needed, however, with overclocking for years at a time you should use the best you can afford.

 

I understand the differences in PSUs, I became an expert in computer hardware, owned my own company, and became a consultant to other companies including those that build computers.

 

I am not saying I am perfect or at God level, however, my experience is vast and very long.  And, I have been overclocking for decades, I initially did it to break hardware in order to find tolerances, now that I am disabled I cannot afford to go that far.

 

I suggest you increase the voltage of your RAM + 2/100 of a volt and increase your voltage on your CPU very slightly.  Also, applying a good TIM on your CPU is a good idea [clean the old off completely],  I still use GELID GC-EXTREME, because it is very good and I have a tube sitting on a shelf in my computer room, although there are a couple of compounds that conduct heat VERY slightly better, I do not expect to change compounds any time soon. 

 

NOTE:  Store the tube of TIM with the tip down, the "oil" or emulsifier has a tendency to migrate to the tip over time if the tube is on it's side, and when you use it after a period of storage time you will get an oily substance before the TIM itself leaves the tube. 

 

These are just a few things important to situations such as yours, including overclocking and I wanted to give you a little history of myself, and wish you good luck on getting your computer running well.

 

EDITED for clarity.

 

Not true that a PSU needs to be replaced "at least" every 5 years. For example Corsair PSU's now have a 10 year warranty. Scrapping a quality PSU and replacing it when it's only half way through it's warranty period would be silly.

 

 

 

 

80 Plus, Gold, or Platinum is the "efficiency" of the PSU, and it doesn't necessarily relate to the expected lifespan of the PSU. A less efficient PSU, whether you are overclocking or not, on average, wont have a shorter lifespan than a higher efficiency Platinum rated PSU. It will just generate somewhat more heat, and if the PSU is properly specified and not running at max capacity and cooled correctly it's not an issue.

 

A PSU with a lesser efficiency rating isn't a PSU of lesser quality.

 

It's the "quality" of the PSU, the quality of the components, the design choices made by the manufacturer that determines PSU lifespan. Not it's efficiency rating.

 

Furthermore, manufacturers frequently have to make PSU design compromises to achieve a Platinum rating. Thus some have argued that lesser Gold efficiency rated PSU's are more likely to have a longer lifespan.

 

Thanks for the advice Dan and Martin, appreciated.


Howard
MSI Mag B650 Tomahawk MB, Ryzen7-7800X3D CPU@5ghz, Arctic AIO II 360 cooler, Nvidia RTX3090 GPU, 32gb DDR5@6000Mhz, SSD/2Tb+SSD/500Gb+OS, Corsair 1000W PSU, Philips BDM4350UC 43" 4K IPS, MFG Crosswinds, TQ6 Throttle, Fulcrum One Yoke
My FlightSim YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@skyhigh776

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martin,

 

Some of your comments, such as, "A PSU with a lesser efficiency rating isn't a PSU of lesser quality."  For the vast majority of PSUs your statement is false.  I will not address the rest of your comments because this post will be longer than I wanted and I do not want to add to it.

 

Also, it may be that I should have been more specific, for some people.  I spoke in general terms because most computer users have no idea of the importance of a power supply and what its components or sub-components are, let alone understand what terms such as ripple or what a sine wave or stepped sine wave is in regards to PSUs.

 

www.jonnyguru.com is a great site, especially for novice and moderately educated computer users, and it is useful for the highly educated to keep up on some hardware.

 

Usually I do not precisely specify what my hardware is because there are so many good choices available.  Because you feel you have a good or better understanding of computer hardware, my PSU is a Seasonic SS-660XP Active PFC F3 (Platinum-660).  A review of it can be found here:  http://jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=326

 

I have been active with computer software and, more so, hardware since 1986, I became highly educated in the computer hardware field, owned my own company, and became a computer consultant to other companies.  Also, I picked up the desire to overclock long ago, so, that is also familiar to me.

 

Of course no one is perfect, and I am not saying that I am, however I do try to provide good advice on forums in the most concise manner to keep the length of posts down.  It is not my intent to provide in-depth hardware specifics because I do not want to write a short book or lengthy reviews, it takes too long and most people do not want to read massive posts.

 

Thank you for your comments.

 

Dan

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Some of your comments, such as, "A PSU with a lesser efficiency rating isn't a PSU of lesser quality."  For the vast majority of PSUs your statement is false.  I will not address the rest of your comments because this post will be longer than I wanted and I do not want to add to it.

 

His point remains valid - if you want a good power supply, start with a reputable, quality brand and then select the wattage and efficiency you desire or need. Anything else, while possibly giving you good results is not a good method especially when a better one is easily available.

 

Your own choice reinforces it - I run with a Seasonic as well and started with the brand, then the wattage.

 

I have been active with computer software and, more so, hardware since 1986, I became highly educated in the computer hardware field, owned my own company, and became a computer consultant to other companies.  Also, I picked up the desire to overclock long ago, so, that is also familiar to me.

 

I'm not sure what the point of that is - I've been involved with personal computers for longer (1982 and built my first 6501-based computer on a breadboard in 1988) but it's not a particularly useful comparison. If you're an Electrical Engineer who designs and/or specs power supplies for a living (preferably for a major manufacturer or custom hardware builder a la Google/FB) then it would be a somewhat useful appeal to authority. If not, then you (like me) are one-eyed men among the land of the blind.

 

Cheers!

 

Luke


Luke Kolin

I make simFDR, the most advanced flight data recorder for FSX, Prepar3D and X-Plane.

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Some of your comments, such as, "A PSU with a lesser efficiency rating isn't a PSU of lesser quality." For the vast majority of PSUs your statement is false.

 

I'm with Martin on this one. A quick look around eBay pops up plently of no-name 80+ Platinum PSUs at suspiciously low prices. Are you really saying that they're better than a Seasonic/Corsair/EVGA 80+ Bronze item? I'd much rather have a Bronze PSU with a 10-year warranty than a Platinum one with a 1-year (or less!) warranty.


 i7-6700k | Asus Maximus VIII Hero | 16GB RAM | MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X Plus | Samsung Evo 500GB & 1TB | WD Blue 2 x 1TB | EVGA Supernova G2 850W | AOC 2560x1440 monitor | Win 10 Pro 64-bit

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Hello Luke,

 

Quote, "His point remains valid..." I disagree. Quote, "...if you want a good power supply, start with a reputable, quality brand and then select the wattage and efficiency you desire or need." I agree with that.

 

It is obvious you are missing my point, and I would have to go into detail to explain why, and even then I am not sure I could get my thought process across to you, although I believe you are trying your best to provide good information.

 

Power supplies came up because of the devastating situation stated in the first post made by the OP. Because I cannot get my hands on his machine to check things I can only make assumptions as to a fix, just like everyone else here.

 

According to the OP he has been running a stable overclock of 4.6GHz on water for around 5 years. I do not know what settings he has in BIOS to accomplish this, he did not state it, if he did, I missed or forgot it. A good CPU will last that long easily.

 

His CPU has 12 phases, and they are all needed because they are not the highest quality, however, 12 of them should do the job.

 

Also, I do not know what TIM he is using or how old it is, how the CPU and cooler were prepped for TIM, and how the TIM was applied. I do not know what kind of RAM he is using or what voltage it is running. I do not know what voltages the CPU is using. I do not know if anything needs cleaned - as dirty components trap heat.

 

These are just a few of the things important to a moderately high overclock such as his. The power supply quality and health comes into play because weak components in a power supply can force computer components, including the PSU to demand more power to function, which increases heat, and with heat more power is required in order to supply proper voltage. It can become very dangerous and a faulty power supply can damage any other component in the computer, from drives to the motherboard. A very high quality power supply has better components and is less prone to weaken under stress compared to lower quality components in lower quality PSUs.

 

I suggest he try some free things first. Remove all overclocks. Disconnect all cables, CAT, sound, microphone, USB [keep only the keyboard and mouse connected [although I have seen a defective keyboard or mouse, usually the keyboard cause problems]. Disconnect all fans except the CPU fan. Disconnect and remove the video card, all drives, and RAM.

 

Try booting and check the response of the computer. If the computer responds properly add one stick of RAM, reboot and check for proper response. Reinstall the video card, if the computer responds properly connect the boot drive. If the computer boots into Windows properly and there are no problems with programs located on the boot drive, move the single stick of RAM to each different RAM slot. If everything works properly, including Windows programs, add the second stick of RAM. If everything works properly plug in one fan at a time. Go slowly with this, as ANYTHING can cause damage to computer components, including a bad fan. I have seen a fan that was shorting out do damage to other components in computers.

 

If you run into any problem along the way, isolate it and see if your computer is stable while not overclocked. If the computer is stable, begin a slow overclock starting around 4.0GHz and increase the CPU VCORE by .025 volts above what you normally use and increase the RAM voltage the same amount, keep this increased voltage all the way up to 4.6GHz overclock. If just the voltage increases stabilize your computer components such as the CPU, VRM, RAM or RAM circuits, including controller, on the motherboard may be getting weak.

 

Again, a failing power supply will cause problems that can destroy components and make diagnosing problems so difficult it may make you want to chuck the computer out of a second story window.

 

I have not covered everything hardware related, there is also software that can destroy or interfere with computer functions. I do not know what, including software, was added by the OP or hacker over the internet, or any other changes to the computer just prior to this problem.

 

It is nearly 10:00 p.m. here and I am getting very tired. I take medication at 7:30 p.m. that interferes with my ability to focus and think. Another major hindrance to me, I was wounded in the head twice during combat and that caused memory problems and a leaning disability that made it extremely difficult for me in college, however, by "over-studying", a great deal I became able to do many things in my life, although it was exceedingly difficult. In high school I took advanced subjects and when entering the U.S. army I was qualified to become anything I wanted, and was given a choice, even though the Vietnam War was at it's height, 1968 and 1969. More American deaths occurred in that time period than any other. In any event, after a great deal of combat and wounds, I fought hard to learn and as mentioned I owned a computer business and was a computer consultant.

 

The reason I like FSX is because I also became a commercial pilot, fixed wing. Many of my flights are to places that I actually flew to in real life.

 

I was also what the navy calls a Mustang, a person that climbed through the ranks and was very successful in commanding ground forces. And, I did other things that doctors were later amazed that I had accomplished because I had a very serious problem, and I do not think the massive amounts of Agent Orange dumped in my AO in Viet Nam helped any, more was used in and around my AO than any other place.

 

My war wounds eventually became crushing because as I aged I did not have the energy to expend in order to excel at my work, and then it got to the point that I could no longer be at a normal capability level. That is more than enough, I usually do not talk about myself, however, I felt that giving you a little information may better understand me. To impart some of my lingering knowledge I still try to help people with computer problems at different forums from time to time.

 

Dan

vortex,

 

I have already stated that I use a Seasonic Platinum series PSU and provided a link to a review of it by www.jonnyguru.com

 

Please read all of my posts - carefully before respond.

 

Thank you.

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Hello Luke,

 

Quote, "His point remains valid..." I disagree. Quote, "...if you want a good power supply, start with a reputable, quality brand and then select the wattage and efficiency you desire or need." I agree with that.

 

It is obvious you are missing my point, and I would have to go into detail to explain why, and even then I am not sure I could get my thought process across to you, although I believe you are trying your best to provide good information.

 

Power supplies came up because of the devastating situation stated in the first post made by the OP. Because I cannot get my hands on his machine to check things I can only make assumptions as to a fix, just like everyone else here.

 

According to the OP he has been running a stable overclock of 4.6GHz on water for around 5 years. I do not know what settings he has in BIOS to accomplish this, he did not state it, if he did, I missed or forgot it. A good CPU will last that long easily.

 

His CPU has 12 phases, and they are all needed because they are not the highest quality, however, 12 of them should do the job.

 

Also, I do not know what TIM he is using or how old it is, how the CPU and cooler were prepped for TIM, and how the TIM was applied. I do not know what kind of RAM he is using or what voltage it is running. I do not know what voltages the CPU is using. I do not know if anything needs cleaned - as dirty components trap heat.

 

These are just a few of the things important to a moderately high overclock such as his. The power supply quality and health comes into play because weak components in a power supply can force computer components, including the PSU to demand more power to function, which increases heat, and with heat more power is required in order to supply proper voltage. It can become very dangerous and a faulty power supply can damage any other component in the computer, from drives to the motherboard. A very high quality power supply has better components and is less prone to weaken under stress compared to lower quality components in lower quality PSUs.

 

I suggest he try some free things first. Remove all overclocks. Disconnect all cables, CAT, sound, microphone, USB [keep only the keyboard and mouse connected [although I have seen a defective keyboard or mouse, usually the keyboard cause problems]. Disconnect all fans except the CPU fan. Disconnect and remove the video card, all drives, and RAM.

 

Try booting and check the response of the computer. If the computer responds properly add one stick of RAM, reboot and check for proper response. Reinstall the video card, if the computer responds properly connect the boot drive. If the computer boots into Windows properly and there are no problems with programs located on the boot drive, move the single stick of RAM to each different RAM slot. If everything works properly, including Windows programs, add the second stick of RAM. If everything works properly plug in one fan at a time. Go slowly with this, as ANYTHING can cause damage to computer components, including a bad fan. I have seen a fan that was shorting out do damage to other components in computers.

 

If you run into any problem along the way, isolate it and see if your computer is stable while not overclocked. If the computer is stable, begin a slow overclock starting around 4.0GHz and increase the CPU VCORE by .025 volts above what you normally use and increase the RAM voltage the same amount, keep this increased voltage all the way up to 4.6GHz overclock. If just the voltage increases stabilize your computer components such as the CPU, VRM, RAM or RAM circuits, including controller, on the motherboard may be getting weak.

 

Again, a failing power supply will cause problems that can destroy components and make diagnosing problems so difficult it may make you want to chuck the computer out of a second story window.

 

I have not covered everything hardware related, there is also software that can destroy or interfere with computer functions. I do not know what, including software, was added by the OP or hacker over the internet, or any other changes to the computer just prior to this problem.

 

It is nearly 10:00 p.m. here and I am getting very tired. I take medication at 7:30 p.m. that interferes with my ability to focus and think. Another major hindrance to me, I was wounded in the head twice during combat and that caused memory problems and a leaning disability that made it extremely difficult for me in college, however, by "over-studying", a great deal I became able to do many things in my life, although it was exceedingly difficult. In high school I took advanced subjects and when entering the U.S. army I was qualified to become anything I wanted, and was given a choice, even though the Vietnam War was at it's height, 1968 and 1969. More American deaths occurred in that time period than any other. In any event, after a great deal of combat and wounds, I fought hard to learn and as mentioned I owned a computer business and was a computer consultant.

 

The reason I like FSX is because I also became a commercial pilot, fixed wing. Many of my flights are to places that I actually flew to in real life.

 

I was also what the navy calls a Mustang, a person that climbed through the ranks and was very successful in commanding ground forces. And, I did other things that doctors were later amazed that I had accomplished because I had a very serious problem, and I do not think the massive amounts of Agent Orange dumped in my AO in Viet Nam helped any, more was used in and around my AO than any other place.

 

My war wounds eventually became crushing because as I aged I did not have the energy to expend in order to excel at my work, and then it got to the point that I could no longer be at a normal capability level. That is more than enough, I usually do not talk about myself, however, I felt that giving you a little information may better understand me. To impart some of my lingering knowledge I still try to help people with computer problems at different forums from time to time.

 

Dan

vortex,

 

I have already stated that I use a Seasonic Platinum series PSU and provided a link to a review of it by www.jonnyguru.com

 

Please read all of my posts - carefully before respond.

 

Thank you.

 

 

Many thanks for taking the time to explain your thoughts Dan, it's very much appreciated.


Howard
MSI Mag B650 Tomahawk MB, Ryzen7-7800X3D CPU@5ghz, Arctic AIO II 360 cooler, Nvidia RTX3090 GPU, 32gb DDR5@6000Mhz, SSD/2Tb+SSD/500Gb+OS, Corsair 1000W PSU, Philips BDM4350UC 43" 4K IPS, MFG Crosswinds, TQ6 Throttle, Fulcrum One Yoke
My FlightSim YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@skyhigh776

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martin,

 

Some of your comments, such as, "A PSU with a lesser efficiency rating isn't a PSU of lesser quality."  For the vast majority of PSUs your statement is false.  I will not address the rest of your comments because this post will be longer than I wanted and I do not want to add to it.

 

Dan

 

 

For a more accurate understanding of my point see this quote. I've underlined the important bit. 

 

 

 

 

80 Plus, Gold, or Platinum is the "efficiency" of the PSU, and it doesn't necessarily relate to the expected lifespan of the PSU.

 

 

Titanium PSU's are now becoming available. More efficient than Platinum. So what are we going to do, label our Platinum PSU's as "not as reliable" and ditch them for a new Titanium PSU? No of course not. Platinum from a quality manufacturer would be a great choice, and so would Gold from a quality manufacturer, despite the fact that Titanium is now available.

 

If your Gold PSU, or your Platinum PSU or your Titanium PSU is a quality make, built with high quality components, then you are good to go.

 

All of us here are enthusiasts, and the majority of us buy quality PSU's from the likes of Corsair, Seasonic, Antec, Enermax, EVGA.

 

Your comment below doesn't refer to PSU's from lesser brands, or of lesser quality. But it does clearly imply that you are of the opinion that Platinum PSU's are of a higher quality than Gold etc. There may be some components in a highly efficient PSU that have been uprated, but that doesn't mean a lesser efficiency PSU is going to fail earlier or be less reliable.

 

Don't forget, we are comparing Titanium to Platinum, or Platinum to Gold.  Any uprating of components to handle the "somewhat" higher efficiency will not be enough to suddenly render our slightly lower efficiency PSU undesirable. Much of this striving for ultimate efficiency is a marketing gimmick!

 

 

Many people argue that an 80 PLUS rating of Platinum is more than needed, however, with overclocking for years at a time you should use the best you can afford.

 

 

It may be the best for efficiency, but that doesn't imply it's the best for longevity and reliability.

 

Luke was spot on in my opinion. Choose a quality make, the wattage you require, and then consider the efficiency you would like. But as you are purchasing a high quality make [if you have any sense] you absolutely should not be concerned that your Platinum PSU instead of Titanium, or Gold instead of Platinum will have a lesser lifespan or reliability.

 

Reminds me of my trusty old low efficiency Antec PSU. Many years old, had hell of a battering. Even been dismantled to clean out dust. [Don't attempt this yourselves]... still going strong. Also have an Enermax, same applies. Platinum or Titanium rated PSU's don't suddenly render them super reliable.

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The other thing to consider is that, according to the 80 Plus certification requirement for 50% load, a Platinum PSU only needs to be 2% more efficient than a Gold PSU (same between Platinum and Titanium) - almost insignificant in the overall scheme of things. Also, taking Corsair and EVGA as examples, the warranties are no different between the Gold and Platinum PSUs so, apart from bragging rights, there seems little reason for the average user to go for a Platinum model.


 i7-6700k | Asus Maximus VIII Hero | 16GB RAM | MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X Plus | Samsung Evo 500GB & 1TB | WD Blue 2 x 1TB | EVGA Supernova G2 850W | AOC 2560x1440 monitor | Win 10 Pro 64-bit

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The other thing to consider is that, according to the 80 Plus certification requirement for 50% load, a Platinum PSU only needs to be 2% more efficient than a Gold PSU (same between Platinum and Titanium) - almost insignificant in the overall scheme of things. Also, taking Corsair and EVGA as examples, the warranties are no different between the Gold and Platinum PSUs so, apart from bragging rights, there seems little reason for the average user to go for a Platinum model.

 

The price of electricity in your area strongly influences your choice of efficiency as well. Let's say I draw 200W from the wall (which is actually pretty hard for me to do with my i7-4770K and GTX760) and I run my computer 18h a day. Electricity here (suburban Atlanta) is around 10c/kWh. That costs me around 36 cents a day in electricty. A 2% improvement in efficiency will get me a savings of three-quarters of a cent per day.

 

Now if you live somewhere with significantly higher electricity rates (like my old home, Ontario) and/or are running a significantly more power-hungry setup like SLI, the improvements in efficiency may start to make sense. But generally speaking, the time it takes to pay them off for me at least is so large it never makes economic sense to do so. I go with 80 Plus Bronze.

 

Cheers!

 

Luke


Luke Kolin

I make simFDR, the most advanced flight data recorder for FSX, Prepar3D and X-Plane.

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 But generally speaking, the time it takes to pay them off for me at least is so large it never makes economic sense to do so. I go with 80 Plus Bronze.

 

Cheers!

 

Luke

 

 

Totally agree. 

The other thing to consider is that, according to the 80 Plus certification requirement for 50% load, a Platinum PSU only needs to be 2% more efficient than a Gold PSU (same between Platinum and Titanium) - almost insignificant in the overall scheme of things. Also, taking Corsair and EVGA as examples, the warranties are no different between the Gold and Platinum PSUs so, apart from bragging rights, there seems little reason for the average user to go for a Platinum model.

 

Excellent points. 

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