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Alan_A

A couple of Kaby delid questions

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Am considering a new build using a delidded 7700k.  I've done several delids in the past, so I'm pretty well set on the basics.  But I do have a couple of detail questions - want to make sure I'm up to speed on the latest/best techniques, since my last build (a 4790k) was two years ago.  So..

-- What's the current thinking on whether or not to remove the black adhesive from the bottom of the IHS and the top of the PCB?  In the past I've removed it in order to get the IHS as close to the core as possible.  But I've seen posts by people I respect suggesting that with Kaby it's better to leave the black adhesive in place.  What would the advantage be?

-- Is it better to reglue the lid after the new TIM is in place, or just set the lid back on the PCB and let the socket clamp hold it down?  On my past builds, I haven't reglued.  Are there reasons to think about it with Kaby?  If so, what adhesive do you suggest?

Thanks in advance - looking forward to hearing how you vot.
 

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Have binned and delidd a lot of KabyLake Cpus with my teamate, not sure but its atleast over 30 cpus.

we leave the additive on the pcb clean the bottom of the IHS, not reglue only mount the ihs its very easy to get the ihs in the right pos.

we always lose the middle screw to get the inital pressure as low as possible, no risk for the ihs to move when you clamp down,

after that tight the screw, very easy. 

here is the best one we find , have one of the good ones for the Sim, only difference is useing liquid metal instead of Grizzly.

1794942.jpg

 

 

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Thanks so much - exactly what I needed to hear.  And exactly the person I needed to hear it from (have been relying on your reports for some time).

That's a stellar chip you've got there, to put it mildly.  I'd be happy to get partway to results like that.

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23 hours ago, Alan_A said:

Am considering a new build using a delidded 7700k.  I've done several delids in the past, so I'm pretty well set on the basics.  But I do have a couple of detail questions - want to make sure I'm up to speed on the latest/best techniques, since my last build (a 4790k) was two years ago.  So..

-- What's the current thinking on whether or not to remove the black adhesive from the bottom of the IHS and the top of the PCB?  In the past I've removed it in order to get the IHS as close to the core as possible.  But I've seen posts by people I respect suggesting that with Kaby it's better to leave the black adhesive in place.  What would the advantage be?

-- Is it better to reglue the lid after the new TIM is in place, or just set the lid back on the PCB and let the socket clamp hold it down?  On my past builds, I haven't reglued.  Are there reasons to think about it with Kaby?  If so, what adhesive do you suggest?

Thanks in advance - looking forward to hearing how you vot.
 

Leave well enough alone.  You want to avoid any extra contact with the circuit board.  Kind of like  a friend with herpes.  Don't even glue it back on the circuit board. Just slap some thermal paste on the die, drop the spreader and clamp shifting the spreader slightly as needed to center.

Cheers

jja


Jim Allen
support@skypilot.biz
SkyPilot Software home of FSXAssist / P3DAssist

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1 minute ago, jjjallen said:

Leave well enough alone.  You want to avoid any extra contact with the circuit board.  Kind of like  a friend with herpes.  Cheers jja

Meaning, leave the additive on the PCB and also don't reglue?  That's how I read your post (which would also be consistent with westman's) but wanted to confirm.

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17 minutes ago, Alan_A said:

Meaning, leave the additive on the PCB and also don't reglue?  That's how I read your post (which would also be consistent with westman's) but wanted to confirm.

Just apply paste, drop the spreader and clamp centering the spreader as needed.  Anything else is like inviting your mother in law to stay for 2 weeks God forbid.

Cheers jja

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Jim Allen
support@skypilot.biz
SkyPilot Software home of FSXAssist / P3DAssist

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8 minutes ago, jjjallen said:

Just apply paste, drop the spreader and clamp centering the spreader as needed.  Anything else is like inviting your mother in law to stay for 2 weeks God forbid.

Cheers jja


Perfect.  Makes life easier as well as safer (and MIL free!) :gaul:

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21 hours ago, Alan_A said:


Perfect.  Makes life easier as well as safer (and MIL free!) :gaul:

The other reason is that glue can prevent the spreader from seating correctly.

regards

jja


Jim Allen
support@skypilot.biz
SkyPilot Software home of FSXAssist / P3DAssist

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Seems like the fewer moving parts, the better.  Which is my basic approach to a lot of things, so I'm good with it...

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I have to disagree with the advise of Jim Allen.  You should absolutely remove the stock epoxy (black rubbery substance) and clean the PCB and IHS as well as you can.  Lowering the Z-height of the IHS can only help temps.  Leaving it at stock and replacing paste with liquid metal means there's a chance the IHS may not make good contact with the CPU die, since liquid metal is not as thick as paste.  

Listen to Hasse, he's delidded even more chips than I have, and I've been doing it since the beginning.  

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i delidded my 7700k and used liquid metal, i fear the liquid is gonna move from the die, i am amazed of the cooling temps though, before the delid at 5ghz i was hitting 85c, after it doesn't go over 64c under heavy stress tests and sits around 45-55c during gaming depending on what i am playing, while x-plane 11 is loading is when i hit the 60c or so and then it stays in the upper 40's. i removed the ihs and cleaned it completely. hope this helps,my next cpu will be delidded as well. the tool you buy makes it almost impossible to mess it up. i super glued my ihs back down with gel super glue, don't use crazy glue,i read it will eat the plastic through.

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Don't reattach your IHS with any kind of adhesive.  Temporary or permanent.  Just use liquid metal and sit the IHS back on the PCB.  The CPU socket retention mechanism will keep the IHS in place once you install the CPU in the socket on your motherboard.

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Removing the existing factory adhesive from the spreader ONLY.  You are asking for a world of hurt if you try to remove it from the die.  The risk doesn't support the benefit.

 

Cheers

jja


Jim Allen
support@skypilot.biz
SkyPilot Software home of FSXAssist / P3DAssist

LionheartVictoryBanner02s-369x97.png

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8 hours ago, jjjallen said:

Removing the existing factory adhesive from the spreader ONLY.  You are asking for a world of hurt if you try to remove it from the die.  The risk doesn't support the benefit.

 

Cheers

jja

 

 

There's no factory adhesive on the die, just TIM. Adhesive is on the PCB. Interestingly, de8auer, inventor of the DieMate and overclocking expert, does indeed remove all adhesive. In addition, he does also glue the IHS back on. All be it with very little adhesive to ensure that the gap isn't back to where it was with Intel TIM/adhesive.

 

Personal choice of course re glue. But with care temps are still very low.

Knife works of course, but DieMate 2 is very cheap, about 20 quid I recall, so if it were me I'd use that method.

 

 

 

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Roman , clean all when he like to reglue.

If not reglue he leave the adhesive on PCB and remove it from IHS, have bought some special binned 6700k from him.

He leave a note on this when a get the cpu.

 

 

 

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