Home cockpit panel

[ram123 1]

Greetings fellow members,

For new year resolution, I have decided to make a cockpit control panel switch for myself. I know that leobodnar supplies very good plug n play Circuit boards. I have been using the Linda module and fsupic registered for fsx se.

I generally fly the aerosoft airbus .

I intend to use leobodnar circuit board for the project.

Questions :

1.i want to assign flaps settings for a potentiometer. How should I do that using fsupic . ?

2.when using single pole double throw switches, I can have 2 input to a switch for 2 different positions. How can I use Linda amodule  to assign 2 input to the same button. I know concept of using shift key, but that I don't want to use.

Eg. When using a single pole double throw toggle switch, when changed  to up position it must arm spoliers. When change to middle position it must retract spoliers and when changed the switch to down position it must fully extend spoilers.

How can I assign 3 different functions to the same switch using Linda or fsupic.

I have the Linda module for the airbus extended .

 

Your assistance in making me achieve the resolution is appreciated.

Many thanks ,

[spokes2112 179]

11 hours ago, raman93 said:

1.i want to assign flaps settings for a potentiometer. How should I do that using fsupic . ?

Hook up and assign the pot as an axis. Then use the right side of the FSUIPC Axis Assignment tab to calibrate output ranges to a flaps set command.

 

11 hours ago, raman93 said:

2.when using single pole double throw switches, I can have 2 input to a switch for 2 different positions. How can I use Linda amodule  to assign 2 input to the same button. I know concept of using shift key, but that I don't want to use.

Never used Linda before, I write my own .LUA's. With that I really have no idea if Linda can do it.
Some kind of logic or hardware will be needed because there are only 2 outputs of a SPDT and you need 3. 

Logically it would be something like -
If switch is up -  Arm Spoilers 
If switch is down - Spoilers Extended
If switch is NOT down AND switch is NOT up - Spoilers Retracted

It will have to be written so it is not constantly (flooding) sending the commands. An example in XML -

(L:Switch up, bool) (A:SPOILERS ARMED, bool) ! and if{ (>K:SPOILERS_ARM_ON) }
(L:Switch down, bool) (A:SPOILERS HANDLE POSITION, position) 0 != and if{ (>K:SPOILERS_OFF) }
(L:Switch up, bool) ! (L:Switch down, bool) !  (A:SPOILERS HANDLE POSITION, position) 1 != and and if{ (>K:SPOILERS_ON) } 

You could do this hardware-wise, making 3 separate states assigned to 3 Bodnar switch inputs -

 

 

OR... A better way if you can find an IC similar to this one (4000 pcs minimum order!)

[ram123 1]

Greetings spokes,

I must thank you for your elaborate explanation. I would further like to take advise on thing regarding using potentiometer for flaps. I understood the part of how to use fsupic for flaps.

For every flap position I want an led light to glow. For example when potentiometer is turned in the corresponding range for flap 1 , the led light number 1 must lit up. Similarly potentiometer is turned in the corresponding range for flap 2, the led light number 2 must lit up and led number 1  must turn off.  Can you please provide a circuit for that ; I shall get it soldered as I am not so good in electronics.

Question : for the potentiometer for the ALT, SPEED ,VERTICAL SPEED ; how do I calibrate the axis if I use a continuous turn potentiometer. I think the range will be infinite, won't they? If you have any other way to do please suggest.

 

Please advise .

[spokes2112 179]

18 minutes ago, raman93 said:

For every flap position I want an led light to glow. For example when potentiometer is turned in the corresponding range for flap 1 , the led light number 1 must lit up. Similarly potentiometer is turned in the corresponding range for flap 2, the led light number 2 must lit up and led number 1  must turn off.  Can you please provide a circuit for that ; I shall get it soldered as I am not so good in electronics.

Not sure about this one.. It's been awhile away from electronics. 
Either way I would start with a "ganged dual pot" with one doing the controls and the other doing the leds.. From there I'm kind of lost. (may think of something later)
Did you want the led's to react to the actual flap position and not the handle position? Then this would be totally different.
 

25 minutes ago, raman93 said:

Question : for the potentiometer for the ALT, SPEED ,VERTICAL SPEED ; how do I calibrate the axis if I use a continuous turn potentiometer. I think the range will be infinite, won't they? If you have any other way to do please suggest.

You could do this with a rotary switch having a spring loaded return to center and using the incr/decr commands. 
If you want to actually turn the knobs round and round than an encoder is the only way to do it.
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=98_75

[ram123 1]

55 minutes ago, spokes2112 said:

you want the led's to react to the actual flap position and not the handle position? Then this would be totally different

Answer: I want them to correspond to actual flap position.

Quote

 

[spokes2112 179]

2 hours ago, raman93 said:

Answer: I want them to correspond to actual flap position

Way beyond my pay grade.. Maybe something like -

SimConnect  <----- bidirectional ----->  A Program -----> USB or Port -----> Decoder -----> LED Driver ------> LED
- OR -
FSUIPC w/Lua ------> USB or Port -----> Decoder -----> LED Driver ------> LED
-OR-
SimConnect <----- bidirectional ----->  Arduino ------> LED

[ram123 1]

Greetings spokes,

 

I agree with you . My friend also suggested that if you want to glow led as per flap changes , you must have output from the fsx simulator , convert it to the correct output format so that the hardware will know and  the led can glow.

He also added that the easier way is to make the led glow is  as per the position of the potentiometer, but he was unable to suggest how to do that.

Can you advise on this about making led glow as per the position of the potentiometer. How should be the circuit connected with led and pot to the circuit board to make it happen? How should I get the value of resistance and led values, to purchase them? I intend to use 5 ranges (5 led position indicator of potentiometerfor flaps )( 3led position indicator for spoilers). I realise that the logic will be same whether for flaps or for spoilers.

Please provide your advise in this regard.

Can I see your panel layout so that I can get some idea how to prepare my enclosure and location of each button!!😊😊

Many thanks,

[spokes2112 179]

Hello,

 Are you willing to use a different switch for the spoilers? Did some searching here, here & here for a SP3T "on-on-on" switch. Found 1 that shows interest & is in stock. ( $15.55 US & $17.12 CAD )  Makes it much easier, no relays, no ICs. Downside? The switch is rather small with a 0.732" lever. (could solder a mini tube on it to extend) Upside? It has a cool feature of "pull to unlock" like real aircraft have.

C&K Components 7211K12ZQE Datasheet <--- This is the model
NKK Switches Datasheet <--- Looked here but couldn't find anything in stock - anywhere.

Look how easy this is for the spoilers.. If you want to keep the same switch that you already have, a newer IC (IXYS CLA106ND) has been found to use.. (IMO Relays are not the way to do it)    (Leo Bodnar Reference for LEDs)

 

As for the flap LEDs a LM3914 referenced to 10V (using only half the LED drivers) should do the trick.This is about as far as I can go without any testing. Check with Leo Bodnar? or an electronics "pro".
LM3914 Datasheet  - ( $3.38 USD ) 
Experiment Site - Note the formulas are for a now defunct LM3916 
KEMET EC2-5NU For safety relay

Full size diagram 

 

16 hours ago, raman93 said:

Can I see your panel layout so that I can get some idea how to prepare my enclosure and location of each button!!

Don't have one... Maybe someday.

[ram123 1]

greetings spokes2112,

I will implement the sp3t switches as it is a very good option.

 

Regarding the LM3914 , can't i keep the v+ value as 5 volts (which a usb port provides).  The experiment site shows that their system is powered with 5v only. this will help eliminate the need of an external supply. Am I understanding wrong? 

[WarpD 824]

A USB port doesn't have much load capacity... typically less than 1 amp.

[ram123 1]

12 minutes ago, WarpD said:

A USB port doesn't have much load capacity... typically less than 1 amp.

But can't I keep the v+ value at 5 volts for the circuit ?

[spokes2112 179]

Hi,

 Simple answer - no.

   Because you are only going to use only 5 (0v thru 5v) of the possible 10 LEDs, the source (Rhi, pin 6) of the the internal voltage dividers needs to go to 10v. The internal voltage regulators output (RefOut, pin 7) is connected to the voltage dividers source (Rhi, pin 6). The internal voltage regulator needs to have a supply (V+, pin 3) 1.5v or greater than the required RefOut (10v, pin 7) to stay stable. 12v is perfect. 

That site is confusing. He's mentioning the LM3914 but using the formulas for the defunct LM3916.
Either way powering both the LED's and IC by 5v would yeild the 10th LED lighting at the following voltages with the given resistors as shown and using the provided formulas.
LM3914 = 2.25v
LM3916 = 2.08v

Notes about the schematic below -
- Pin 9 should be left open for "dot" mode
- LED sinks on LM3914 are open collector, pin 10 thru 14 are safe to leave open
- After further thaught, a safety relay was a little overkill.  
- R3 is a safety resistor to prevent overcurrent on the 5v USB and Bodnar board.
- R4 is a matching resistor to R3's highest current so the brightest spoiler should match the brightest flaps LEDs
  Brightest possible spoilers w/ R3 at 300 = 16ma, therefore via formula in the datasheet - 12.5 / 0.016  = 781 (750 is a standard value, close enough) 
 - Questions about the inrush current of the filter cap. (Hmm..)  For the flaps LEDs I would much rather use the power supply's 5V than that of the Bodnar board. (much safer and it isolates the Bodnar board) S3 is just there as an alternate example and is not needed.
 - Adjust R2 and R4 so the LEDs have the same brightness, then adjust R6 so that pin 6 equals 10v. (R6 should equal 5.25K to 12.3K based on the  previously adjusted brightness) 
 
These are just ideas based on references - no guarantee is given, whatsoever! 
First experiment on a breadboard or something. 

[spokes2112 179]

Hi,

Oops. There may be a problem. All of the above is assuming you were using the full range (0 thru 5v on the wiper) of R1 out for the flaps.
If you are, then no problem.
If not, pin 4, will have to be changed for sure, maybe 6,7 & 8 too . It's all about biasing the internal voltage divider section.

Please advise.
Regards,

Roman

 

 

 

[ram123 1]

23 hours ago, spokes2112 said:

Hi,

Oops. There may be a problem. All of the above is assuming you were using the full range (0 thru 5v on the wiper) of R1 out for the flaps.
If you are, then no problem.
If not, pin 4, will have to be changed for sure, maybe 6,7 & 8 too . It's all about biasing the internal voltage divider section.

Please advise.
Regards,

Roman

 

 

 

Greetings Roman,

I am not an electronic student so I find it little difficult to understand the technical information written. I will figure out in due course and inform you .

Many thanks for assistance.

[ram123 1]

Greetings Roman

when you say the full range (0 thru 5v) , Do you mean the range for the potentiometer  (like in fsupic there is a range scale for axis assignment). Am I understanding correct?.

If such is the case then Yes, i shall be using the full range , So no problems .

Many thanks,

Ram123