Very frustrated after the hotfix

[kaosfere 3,115]

37 minutes ago, RXP said:

Unless there are holes and the Shaders can't deal with them 😂

Hehe, OK, that's a fair point. 😄

 

[Tomaz Drnovsek 440]

17 hours ago, KKLEE said:

Thank you all for your input.
The culprit was photogrammetry.
I turned it off and the sim did not crush.

There's nothing wrong with photogrammetry, there's something wrong with you computer.

[MDFlier 2,031]

Have you pulled the GPU and cleaned out the fans and heatsink fins?

It sounds to me like your GPU might be shutting down as suggested previously. 

Pull the GPU, take it outside, and hit it with the exhaust side of a shop vac. Get it looking as good as new and try it again.. 

[Bobsk8 12,717]

3 hours ago, MDFlier said:

Have you pulled the GPU and cleaned out the fans and heatsink fins?

It sounds to me like your GPU might be shutting down as suggested previously. 

Pull the GPU, take it outside, and hit it with the exhaust side of a shop vac. Get it looking as good as new and try it again.. 

Better idea is get some cans of compressed air on Amazon, and blow out your PC every 3 months or so. Keeps everything running cool and extends the life of your PC. 

[KKLEE 9]

Thank you so much again for all your reply.

Finally, I removed and cleaned the graphic card.

Now the GPU temperature can be maintained between 62 C to 72 C most of the time.

Completed a few flights with only one CTD (with photogrammetry enabled).

Still checking whether the CTD is related to Pilot2ATC.

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by KKLEE

[KKLEE 9]

Very strange.
I ran Pilot2ATC.  After I had connected it to the sim,  the GPU core temperature kept rising.
When the temperature reached 84C , the sim crushed to desktop.

When I disconnected Pilot2ATC,  the GPU core temp started to drop.
The sim did not crush.

It is very puzzling.

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by KKLEE

[Bobsk8 12,717]

1 hour ago, KKLEE said:

Very strange.
I ran Pilot2ATC.  After I had connected it to the sim,  the GPU core temperature kept rising.
When the temperature reached 84C , the sim crushed to desktop.

When I disconnected Pilot2ATC,  the GPU core temp started to drop.
The sim did not crush.

It is very puzzling.

 

I tried Pilot 2 ATC a couple of years ago, with P3D and immediately noticed that my FPS which were always rock solid at 30, dropped with Pilot2 ATC. I looked at task manager and CPU percentages, and Pilot 2 ATC was using up to a whopping 20% at times. I never used it again. 

PF3 which I have used ever since uses about 3 %. 

Edited April 29, 2021 by Bobsk8

[KKLEE 9]

23 minutes ago, Bobsk8 said:

I tried Pilot 2 ATC a couple of years ago, with P3D and immediately noticed that my FPS which were always rock solid at 30, dropped with Pilot2 ATC. I looked at task manager and CPU percentages, and Pilot 2 ATC was using up to a whopping 20% at times. I never used it again. 

PF3 which I have used ever since uses about 3 %. 

Thanks for the info.
I did not know that Pilot2ATC was so hunger for CPU resources.

I like its integration of flight planning, ATC and real time map.

Really don't understand why it affected the GPU temperature in my case as Pilot2ATC was not supposed to do any 3D rendering.

[Tomaz Drnovsek 440]

Did you even tried a flight without the overclock?

[MDFlier 2,031]

2 hours ago, KKLEE said:

Thank you so much again for all your reply.

Finally, I removed and cleaned the graphic card.

Now the GPU temperature can be maintained between 62 C to 72 C most of the time.

Completed a few flights with only one CTD (with photogrammetry enabled).

Still checking whether the CTD is related to Pilot2ATC.

 

Wow! You went from 84°C-89°C all the way down to 62°C-72°C?  That is a much larger change than I had expected you to report back.

I'm going to suggest that you do the same process for your entire computer. If you gained that much cooling on just your GPU, I suspect that there would also be benefit in the same for your entire computer.

About once a year, I take my entire system out on the back porch and do the shop vac routine. I put the crevasse tool on the end of the hose to further concentrate the airflow. Pull the GPU since it's already cleaned. Take as many of the covers off of the case as possible. Blow the heck out of that sucker. Don't touch anything with the shop vac hose to prevent static discharge (try to keep at least 4-6" between the hose and any circuit boards and the ends of any loose cables so the sparks can't jump the gap between them). During the entire blowing out process, keep one hand on some bare metal on the case frame and use the other to move the hose. This will help keep the hose and the components as close as possible to the same potential, minimizing static discharge.  

Make sure that you get the CPU cooler fan and any heat sink fins just as you did with the GPU. Be certain to get all of the dust out of the power supply and case fans as well. For the P/S, mine has a bottom fan, so I stuff the shop vac nozzle right up against the P/S grill on the back of the computer next to the main power switch. The air goes in the back and blows all of the dust down and to the front (which faces inside the PC). Then, I get the nozzle right up on each case fan and keep the hose on it until it is clean. 

When you are done, it should look like a brand new PC. Since you have an older CPU, I'm thinking it may have been installed quite a while ago. There may be some benefit in removing your CPU and replacing the thermal compound. Use alcohol to thoroughly remove the old paste from the CPU and cooler if you do. If you'd have to run to the store or order new compound, I would just skip it for now. Keep it in mind as a (minor) possibility if you still have problems later on.

Finally, when you are putting the GPU back in, look at the PCIe slot and visually verify that there are no dust bunnies or other debris in the actual slot before inserting the GPU. If the little fingers on the GPU card that make the connections in the PCIe slot look discolored or dull, try using a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to clean them up a bit.

This whole process is free (unless you order a 6 pack of canned air from Amazon to do it) and should take less than 45 minutes start to finish. After you've done this, if you still have problems it will most iikely be a SW problem. At least you'll have peace of mind in knowing for sure that you are not working with a heat related problem.

[Bobsk8 12,717]

1 hour ago, KKLEE said:

Thanks for the info.
I did not know that Pilot2ATC was so hunger for CPU resources.
 

It may be different now, I tried it a few years ago. You can always see what is going on using Task Manager when it's running. 

[Bobsk8 12,717]

1 hour ago, MDFlier said:

Wow! You went from 84°C-89°C all the way down to 62°C-72°C?  That is a much larger change than I had expected you to report back.

I'm going to suggest that you do the same process for your entire computer. If you gained that much cooling on just your GPU, I suspect that there would also be benefit in the same for your entire computer.

About once a year, I take my entire system out on the back porch and do the shop vac routine. I put the crevasse tool on the end of the hose to further concentrate the airflow. Pull the GPU since it's already cleaned. Take as many of the covers off of the case as possible. Blow the heck out of that sucker. Don't touch anything with the shop vac hose to prevent static discharge (try to keep at least 4-6" between the hose and any circuit boards and the ends of any loose cables so the sparks can't jump the gap between them). During the entire blowing out process, keep one hand on some bare metal on the case frame and use the other to move the hose. This will help keep the hose and the components as close as possible to the same potential, minimizing static discharge.  

Make sure that you get the CPU cooler fan and any heat sink fins just as you did with the GPU. Be certain to get all of the dust out of the power supply and case fans as well. For the P/S, mine has a bottom fan, so I stuff the shop vac nozzle right up against the P/S grill on the back of the computer next to the main power switch. The air goes in the back and blows all of the dust down and to the front (which faces inside the PC). Then, I get the nozzle right up on each case fan and keep the hose on it until it is clean. 

When you are done, it should look like a brand new PC. Since you have an older CPU, I'm thinking it may have been installed quite a while ago. There may be some benefit in removing your CPU and replacing the thermal compound. Use alcohol to thoroughly remove the old paste from the CPU and cooler if you do. If you'd have to run to the store or order new compound, I would just skip it for now. Keep it in mind as a (minor) possibility if you still have problems later on.

Finally, when you are putting the GPU back in, look at the PCIe slot and visually verify that there are no dust bunnies or other debris in the actual slot before inserting the GPU. If the little fingers on the GPU card that make the connections in the PCIe slot look discolored or dull, try using a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to clean them up a bit.

This whole process is free (unless you order a 6 pack of canned air from Amazon to do it) and should take less than 45 minutes start to finish. After you've done this, if you still have problems it will most iikely be a SW problem. At least you'll have peace of mind in knowing for sure that you are not working with a heat related problem.

I use canned air and blow my PC out about every 3 months or so. Keeps it nice and cool and it only takes a few minutes. . 

[MDFlier 2,031]

Canned air might work but I'm not a big fan of paying for air or generating empty cans so I try to avoid doing so whenever possible. I have a can of air sitting right next to me, but I only use it for light duty, like blowing the cat fur out of my mouse and keyboard. That 16oz can cost me $4.99. My shop vac is close by, never runs out of air, and has much better airflow. Not to mention that for $5 worth of electricity I will be able to clean out my computer for the rest of my time on Earth. I might recommend giving the CPU and GPU cooler areas some quick maintenance shots with the can every every couple of weeks after getting it back in shape with an initial shop vac deep clean. I guess that both would work and neither is technically correct. I did field service for 9 years. Putting the unit on the loading dock and hitting it with the back end of a vacuum cleaner was the fastest, most customer friendly way to get it done. They hated big clouds of dust inside of their buildings. So do I.       

Edit: After posting the above, I looked at the can of air sitting next to my desk. I noticed a bunch of cautions and warnings on it that I had never read. (Spoiler alert: YES - California residents are going to die if you use this product. The rest of you will be fine). The "can of air" ain't air. It is Difluoroethane. Here's what the NIH data sheet says regarding the "disposal" of Difluoroethane, "SRP: The most favorable course of action is to use an alternative chemical product with less inherent propensity for occupational harm/injury/toxicity or environmental contamination. Recycle any unused portion of the material for its approved use or return it to the manufacturer or supplier. Ultimate disposal of the chemical must consider: the material's impact on air quality; potential migration in soil or water; effects on animal and plant life; and conformance with environmental and public health regulations.". This is interesting, since the "proper" usage of a can of air requires the contents be released into the atmosphere. I believe that this will be my last can.

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by MDFlier

[Bobsk8 12,717]

1 hour ago, MDFlier said:

Canned air might work but I'm not a big fan of paying for air or generating empty cans so I try to avoid doing so whenever possible. I have a can of air sitting right next to me, but I only use it for light duty, like blowing the cat fur out of my mouse and keyboard. That 16oz can cost me $4.99. My shop vac is close by, never runs out of air, and has much better airflow. Not to mention that for $5 worth of electricity I will be able to clean out my computer for the rest of my time on Earth. I might recommend giving the CPU and GPU cooler areas some quick maintenance shots with the can every every couple of weeks after getting it back in shape with an initial shop vac deep clean. I guess that both would work and neither is technically correct. I did field service for 9 years. Putting the unit on the loading dock and hitting it with the back end of a vacuum cleaner was the fastest, most customer friendly way to get it done. They hated big clouds of dust inside of their buildings. So do I.       

Edit: After posting the above, I looked at the can of air sitting next to my desk. I noticed a bunch of cautions and warnings on it that I had never read. (Spoiler alert: YES - California residents are going to die if you use this product. The rest of you will be fine). The "can of air" ain't air. It is Difluoroethane. Here's what the NIH data sheet says regarding the "disposal" of Difluoroethane, "SRP: The most favorable course of action is to use an alternative chemical product with less inherent propensity for occupational harm/injury/toxicity or environmental contamination. Recycle any unused portion of the material for its approved use or return it to the manufacturer or supplier. Ultimate disposal of the chemical must consider: the material's impact on air quality; potential migration in soil or water; effects on animal and plant life; and conformance with environmental and public health regulations.". This is interesting, since the "proper" usage of a can of air requires the contents be released into the atmosphere. I believe that this will be my last can.

 

https://www.crucial.com/articles/pc-builders/how-to-clean-the-inside-of-a-computer

[Ixoye 1,821]

I clean my PC every three months with a IT Dusters CompuCleaner, it only takes a couple of minutes to make it as new again.