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Concentric circles in Paint Shop Pro

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Hmmm, I'll have to see if anyone's made an export plugin. Thanks Bill.Hey, if anyone is interested in a 2D CAD program, here's one that someone recommended to me a while back but whose name I had forgotten. QCad. It's open-source (GPL) and available on multiple platforms (Linux, Windows, MacOS X). http://www.qcad.orgPeter http://bfu.avsim.net/sigpics/PeterR.gifBFU Forums ModeratorRenegade/Seawolf Design Group (RSDG)

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Guest A_Delta_Sierra

4800X4800 rgb at 72dpi makes a file 66mb. Then you reduce it 200X200 at 72 dpi? To do that big of image size change, what kind of sampling are your using? 'Bicubic, Nearest Neighbor, or bilinear all end up looking poorer then starting with a 200X200 when I just put a couple of diagonal white lines on a black background.The "rule" that I use and have read about -- is don't resize, you will loose a lot of the picture detail and shapness. Source -from "KellyTown" tips on using photoshop. http://www.kelleytown.com/photoshopguide.htmlThat big 66mb file takes a long time to render if you apply a filter. Our mileage must differ.

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>4800X4800 rgb at 72dpi makes a file 66mb. Then you reduce it>200X200 at 72 dpi? To do that big of image size change, what>kind of sampling are your using? 'Bicubic, Nearest Neighbor,>or bilinear all end up looking poorer then starting with a>200X200 when I just put a couple of diagonal white lines on a>black background.Ok, I overstated it a bit. Here's a real example (now that I have Photoshop loaded, I can get the exact numbers).I created an "old style" Collins radio set for a Citation 2. It houses COM1/STNBY/COM2?NAV1/XPDR/NAV2 in one, panelmounted unit.I started with an 1855x1696 image, simply because that's the size of the 'panel diagram' I used as a source file came out... :) When done, I scale it down to 400x366 using bi-cubic sampling, then I collapse the layers as I need to extract out knobs, switches, etc.By working with a large file, I can put an incredible amount of detail on the smaller parts, which doesn't suffer horribly when rescaled to the final size. I've found that text suffers the most whenever you try to work with too small a size to begin with, and this technique has proven quite workable for me so far.>The "rule" that I use and have read about -- is don't resize,>you will loose a lot of the picture detail and shapness.>Source -from "KellyTown" tips on using photoshop. >http://www.kelleytown.com/photoshopguide.htmlIf I were working with a photo, I would use the same rule, but bitmaps seem to work well for me this way. Even when further reduced by FS on the panel, the text and details remain crisp and easily read... :)BillAVSIM OmbudsmanFounder and Director,Creative Recycling of Aircraft Partshttp://catholic-hymns.com/frbill/FS2002/images/fartslogo.jpghttp://forums.avsim.com/user_files/25507.jpg

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Guest A_Delta_Sierra

When is a pixel not a pixel? Is it when it is in a photo or is it when it is a new image being built from ground zero? An image is an image and 16 million available colors are 16 million available colors. I would think that a pixel is a pixel is a pixel regardless of what you call the "thing" that it is in. If you click the Anti-Aliased check box for the lettering you will get the same result by starting at the "samll" size. When you reduce it down with the bicubic filter, you are adding the effect of anti-aliasing. take a real close look and you will see it.That 4800X4800 was just a bit too big for a forum entry. ;-)Oh well, I said our mileage would differ. :-)

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Guest A_Delta_Sierra

Darn, I even learned a different math then you. 4500X4500 is close to the same height width ration as 1024X768? So a circle is scaled to a 102 pixels wide by 77 pixels tall and it is still a circle, complete with ani-aliasing applied with no control over it. anti-aliasing turns that nice crisp line between 0,0,0 and the glare shield into a ragged edge when the bicubic filter is applied and you have to redo it.Seems to me that starting at 1024x768 and using the spy glass to enlarge sections as needed would be the best way of doing things. But if Leonardo was doing it, he could start with either a 200X200 or a 10,000x10,000 screen and turn out a masterpiece. Tis the man with the brush that is important.But the rest of us will be better off starting with the size we want to finish with so we can have complete control over the individual pixels at all times.I make a good straight man for displaying examples. Show me the next picture (or two). ;-)

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>Darn, I even learned a different math then you. 4500X4500 is>close to the same height width ration as 1024X768? So a>circle is scaled to a 102 pixels wide by 77 pixels tall and it>is still a circle, complete with ani-aliasing applied with no>control over it. anti-aliasing turns that nice crisp line>between 0,0,0 and the glare shield into a ragged edge when the>bicubic filter is applied and you have to redo it.Now where on earth did I ever say or imply such nonsense? In an effort to be "clever," you've completely missed the point of this technique! :)>Seems to me that starting at 1024x768 and using the spy glass>to enlarge sections as needed would be the best way of doing>things. But if Leonardo was doing it, he could start with>either a 200X200 or a 10,000x10,000 screen and turn out a>masterpiece. Tis the man with the brush that is important.>>But the rest of us will be better off starting with the size>we want to finish with so we can have complete control over>the individual pixels at all times.>>I make a good straight man for displaying examples. Show me>the next picture (or two). ;-)Ok, since a "picture is worth a thousand words," here's another one which might drive my point home visually...Since my ultimate goal is to make the VC mode and 2d panel view identical - therefore seamless - the most effective way to accomplish that task is to design/draw/paint the entire scene, and then use a pair of "boundary boxes" to determine how best to "slice up" the image for each panel and sub-panel that will ultimately wind up in the panel.cfg file.This also allows me to precisely place each gauge or component on the panel in the exact size it needs to be in its final form, and know in advance the exact final size I'll need for each individual gauge bitmap such that it won't need to be re-scaled on the fly by FS at runtime!I'm out the door in 10 minutes for a business trip to Orlando, FL. I'm meeting the rest of the EaglesoftDG team for a series of business meetings and a visit to the Cessna hanger (and a few other aircraft hangers) for research... :) I won't be back "online" until Sunday afternoon.Here's a napkin for you to wipe the egg off your face... :) See ya later, friend!(sorry in advance for the horrible .jpg, but that's what happens when having to resample a full screen to forum size!)BillAVSIM OmbudsmanFounder and Director,Creative Recycling of Aircraft Partshttp://catholic-hymns.com/frbill/FS2002/images/fartslogo.jpghttp://forums.avsim.com/user_files/25583.jpg

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Guest A_Delta_Sierra

Sorry Fr. Bill, please continue doing it your way. These comments are directed to the other readers, showing an alternate method that works very well.(NOTE -- "You" and "your" is everyone except Fr. bill)Once again to avoid resizing of the entire image you should start with the finished size. Start with a blank background. Open your photo of the panel you want to use in a separate file, select all of it, copy it to the clip board, then go to the new image file, create a layer and paste the image onto the new layer. Use the Edit-Transform-Numeric and scale the layer with the photo to fit the finished size of the background. Use the relationships between the new finished size and the orignal size to determine the percent scale factors. And yet another way is to work with the original picture, use the "marquee" selection tool AND set the "style" to "Constrained aspect ratio" setting the values to your finished size. Example 10.24 by 7.68 in the parameter boxes. Now when you use the "marguee" selection tool, it will provide a window in the correct ratio of h/w for the finished. Or ... set the "style" to a fixed size 1024,768 and select the part of the picture you want to use. Either way paste the selected image into the new correctly sized image and then add new layers for the individual art work. Never forget, LAYERS are good! Only flatten to a bmp AFTER you have saved the file as a layered Photoshop image.NOTE --- the following imformation is not needed to use Photoshop.But, as long as we are also talking about travel plans, we will be gone to Oshkosh next week with our 200 channel scanner, digital camcorder, digital camera, 56+16 meg of flash cards for the camera, 12 NiMH AAs, and our laptop to download the daily 360 picture limit off the flash cards. Will also take a couple of blank CDs to burn the images and free the laptop hard drive if needed. Also, plenty of sun screen. From a three circle question to this ... where have we gone with such a simple question? ;-) Maybe we all should be sticking to the topic a little closer. Concentric circles. Seems as if this splinter started with a 4800X4800 image resized to a 200X200 for what must have been a single gauge. More then one gauge in a 200X200 format might be a little hard to read.

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Guest A_Delta_Sierra

For your file format conversions, two freeware programs will do just about all of it.3D Exploration -- the current payware version will run for a month. However, here is a link to a freeware version that will nag on opening and closing, but continues to work beyond 30 days.http://www.dsmith.gmaxsupport.com/download...3dexplor1_5.exeAlso see:http://www.dsmith.gmaxsupport.com/Gmax_to_3d_Explorer.htmOne other program that is very good for 2D format changes is XnView.Freeware without nags:http://www.xnview.com/These two files will allow you to get from A to B in just about all formats.

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