pmanhart

I would go for the Aerosoft Twin Otter if I had to choose one from Vic's list. You get the -100 and -300 variants, the -100 variant has float, wheel, ski and tundra wheel options, and the -300 has amphibious (floats with wheels), wheels and ski and tundra wheel options. It's a fantastic plane and has been updated to work with FSX:SE and P3D, whichever flavor of the two you might run. There are also hundreds if not thousands of repaints available for it. http://www.aerosoft.com/en/fsxp3d/prepar3d/aircraft/1767/twin-otter-extended I'm looking forward to Milviz's Beaver, but in the meantime the AS Twotter fits the bill perfectly.

Hey Dane, I've owned two different sets of rudder pedals. My first set was the CH Pro Pedals, and I currently am using the Saitek Combat Pedals. I wish I never would have gotten rid of the CH pedals. The CH Pro Pedals have a very smooth throw action for the rudder axis and both toe brakes were also very smooth. All the axes had great resolution and they never were a problem. The only thing I didn't like about them were how narrow the unit was and therefore how close the pedals were to eachother. The Saitek Combat Pedals are more natural to keep my feet on, but the rudder axis is sticky and tends to grind no matter how well I grease them. The toe brakes don't have a very long throw but are smooth. When the Combat Pedals are starting to break down I'll be going back to the old trusty CH's, if they are still around.

Oh, must have forgotten about that!

How did you get around the in-place 3d knobs?

I haven't had a problem with the new Huey in Prepar3d v3 with the Windows 10 Service Pack 2 Creator's Update.

It would be great if they added options for the GTN 750/650. I believe this was one of the last Carenado birds without an installer for third party avionics. It's also one of my favorite Carenado planes.

They are a pleasure to fly, but like Rob mentioned the VC graphics are nothing like a Carenado or Alabeo aircraft. I'll probably be taking advantage of the sale to update them for P3D. Years ago I uploaded a replacement cockpit glass texture because I thought the tinting was too strong (dark) to flightsim.com, would have to find that again...

Loving this new version of UT. One thing I've noticed is that the traffic doesn't reset and disappear when using a menu. Memory and CPU footprint is also much lighter than what I was used to with MATT, not to mention it just works... No fiddling with the .Cfg files. Loaded up Orbx KSAN and found Southwest, Delta and AA flights as they should be, no more Daedalus skins ruining the experience on airlines traffic. Took advantage of the discount for prior UT 2 owners, very happy so far!

Bobcat!

I have absolutely not one problem with P3D and Windows 10... The key is to do a full install, not an upgrade. Since Windows Vista, Microsoft has billed the upgrade option as comparable to a full install of a new OS, but upgrading leaves around old drivers, files, etc. that cause problems.

To the OP, I think the only way to get around this is to use the onboard throttles and reach your right hand across the yoke. Since you are using different throttles, why not pull a "lefty" or "copilot" and just move the throttles to the other side of the yoke? When I still had my CH Eclipse Yoke (I wish I never would have gotten rid of it for the POS Saitek garbage I have now), it wasn't a problem because the Eclipse has POV hats on both sides. When I can get around to getting an Eclipse again, I'll finally be able to put down my 15 year old CH Fighterstick and Pro Throttle (still working great BTW). I may put the Saitek Yoke and Throttle up for sale, but I don't want to cause anyone any harm... :wink:

I know it's not a "popular" opinion to have right now on AVSIM, but I tried the XP11 demo and came away with wonder from the UI (loved it), only to be disappointed again in the rest of it... Sure it looks pretty at dusk, night and dawn, and the curved runways are fantastic to navigate (especially in a heavy), but everything it still lacks that has been mainstay in FS/ESP for multiple versions still keeps me away.

I was able to take her up in a flight this morning before work, she's a beauty and great to fly. And things like the above is why Miliviz is my favorite third-party aircraft developer.

Rob and Sean, Thank you for all the wonderful products you have released and supported throughout the years. Your Duke and Legacy will forever be two of my favorite aircraft of all time. Sincerely, Phil Manhart

I bought it at release, worth every penny!

It's actually not too bad, the hardest part is getting everything to line up correctly when you are putting it together. I've taken mine apart to clean them and here's my best advice: 1. Take them apart upside down. 2. There will be wires that connect between the bottom plate that you pull off and the top plate so don't pull too hard and be prepared to run some very small wires back into place before putting it together again. 3. Make sure you mark the three wires that go to the pot so they end up on the right terminals (I replaced a pot in my yoke once, only to have to take it all the way apart again because I swapped two lugs) 4. You might not get it back together perfectly the first, second or third time. Be patient and retest the pedals before screwing back in all the fasteners (especially movement along the rudder axis, it's very easy to screw up the pot to actuator arm alignment when putting it back together). Good luck!

I must have misunderstood. If only the last 5 points are missing, then the calibration should "get rid" of it. Maybe try running CH Control Manager as Administrator to make sure it is updating the calibration values in the registry?

I believe the readout from the Z-axis should be around 126-127 when centered, as 0 should be one end and 255 the other as shown below 0-------127-------255 (Left, Center, Right) I could have the directions backwards in the above "graphic". It almost sounds like your pedals don't have an entire half of their range available. It could be possible that the variable resistor that tracks that axis has broken or the operating arm inside the pedals is damaged or been broken. Have you tried deleting all CH drivers and software and starting over? 1. Unplug all CH controllers 2. Run CH Delete program from the CH Software folder 3. Uninstall CH Control Manager from the Control Panel 4. Restart PC 5. Plug in CH controllers 6. Install CH Control Manager 7. Calibrate using CH Control Manager If doing the above doesn't work, you've tried it on another computer and it does the exact same thing, and they are still under warranty, may warrant a call to CH to try and setup a warranty service.

I see this isn't your first thread on this topic. If it were me, I would wait until the 6700k is available, as you'll probably get more bang for your buck, plus you could put the extra savings from the 6700k into the GTX 1080 and not have to worry about going over budget.

Add another happy Milviz customer here. They have always and continue to exceed my expectations, and as soon as I'm home plan to put a new Huey in my hangar.

I do, but I don't have Chase Plane and don't plan on using it. I believe use will entirely depend on how you have it setup in the Logitech Gaming Software (LGS). You can set the joystick to act as an analog joystick (X and Y axis), mouse or direction based keys. All other keys/buttons are assigned according to the LGS as well.

YES and NO Rural area where framerate isn't a problem - locked Urban area where framerates are a problem - unlocked

It depends on the flight situation, but in my experience, I've ranked them below: If you're in a dense urban environment: 1. AI Traffic 2. Road Traffic 3. Shadows, mostly building shadows (also comes into play with #1 and #2 if SimObject shadows are enabled!) Rural environment: 1. Vegetation shadows 2. Own plane (PMDG, Flight1 G1000 equipped plane, etc.) Ever since upgrading to a modern system, the scenery and autogen sliders don't do much for me.

I think this is great news.

Also, keep in mind that if it was sent to the Recycle Bin, it's not really deleted off of the hard drive. Recycle Bins sizes are based off of the size of the hard drive, and can be seen by right-clicking on the Recycle Bin and setting sizes. You may need to empty the Recycle Bin to gain your space back (or like Venturi mentioned, use CCleaner, which cleans out all Recycle Bins when it's ran).