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FSBUS PCB dimensions

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Hi All,Considering the amount of confusion about manufacturing PCBs and Kits in the future, I was wondering whether someone out there has the dimensions of the PCBs used in the FSBUS system? If someone, including Dirk has the dimensions of all of the boards, I could then print out the GIFS and JPGs of the boards onto a sheet of clear overhead projector sheet and then use this as a negative for a photo-resist blank PCB. The problem is, the quality of the pictures is fantastic, but not the correct size. Its is generally out by a little bit, and enough to make it unusable for components such as DIL sockets, 7 Segment leds, and header connectors.Each of the boards has a cross at each corner. The best was would be to have the dimensions from point to point on each corner, and then I can use a painting program such a photoshop to increase the size correctly.Only and idea, since I'm happy to get my hands dirty with a bit of caustic chemical, and in Australia it is a bit far from the rest of the world as far as getting prototyping done. I was quote $150-00AU($70-00US) just for one board.Thanking any replies in advance.Happy Simming!Rob Fonhofrobfonhof@webprophets.net.auMelbourneAustralia

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Guest perchas

The exact measures are in format PS PostScrip,the last month of March we have ordered to make professionally for three Kits for me and two people more:Total 24 PCB each Kit1 Unit PCB FSBUS COM III1 Unit PCB FSAD3 Analogic/Digital converter 8 inpus potentiometers1 Unit FSDO3 4x8= 32 output reed relay 1Amp.1 Unit PCB FSLED support 32 individual LED2 Unit PCB FSBUS DISPLAY3C 6 microcontroller suppor 6 x 5 digit 7 segment display12 Unit PCB 5 digit 7 segment display3 Unit PCB 3 digit 7 segment display2 Unit PCB FSKEY3 support 16 mechanical rotary encoder or BCD rotary or 64 individual switches1 Unit PCB FSSERVO to support 8 servo motors.The price74.69 Euros - Boards11.95 Euros - VAT (Tax)11.00 Euros - Shippping Charges (Certified Air Mail)Sub Total: 97,64 Euros.An additional 180,00 Euros + VAT for Photo Plotter composition and Preparation,this amount must divide between the amounts of Kits that make.In order to do him a favor , if you want I can repeat the order.They just gave me the costs. Ofcourse this is not a commercial operation. You are just looking for partners toshare the expenses.RegardsRafael (Spain)

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Guest

Mick WoodHi RobThis is how I printed the boards to the correct size.Using the GCPrevue program, I opened up the gerber files for each board. Then used the zoom out feature until the correct size was displayed (I found this by holding up a PIC base to the image on the monitor and matching the pins to the holes).Then on the print out I checked the other components which fitted OK.I found the print outs a little blurred and the tracks very close together and decided not to make the PCB's. Instead I am making them using PCB strip board, at the weekend I will have completed the FSCOM, FSKEY, FSAD converter & FSLED boards using this method.It is a lot cheaper than having them made and is fairly easy after you put the components temporarily on the board and draw the circuit on the component side.Hope this helpsRegardsMick WoodDerby (Near East Midlands Airport)UK

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Guest jpcxcf

Get GerbView, open the gerber files and print. That's all that it takes.Best regards,PedroPS: This board is actually working now ;). Sorry for the poor pic.

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Guest GeorgeDorkofikis

Looks very nice!...Was that a photo sensitive board that you developed?Where did you print the diagram? Plain paper or on transparency?Where can I find GerbView?I will start my FSBUS project around May myself...Thanks!George DorkofikisAthens, Greece

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Guest

I make pcbs at home.I used gsview (do a search on google) to view and print the PS files (postscript format).Since the image stored in the file comes already with its own dimensions, i just printed them on a plain paper sheet to check with the pcbs.When i was sure i had the pcbs of correct dimension (most circuits use 16x10 cm eurocard) i just printed the PS files on transaprent projection sheets, and used my uv lamps to make the masters on the pre-sprayed pcbs.Then usual process: soda bath, and incision.About the incision: don't use the standard percloryc acid (or whatever it's called in english), i use another mix which is much cleaner and faster:90% cloridric acid (13%) it buy it at the supermarket10% ossigenated water (don't know how do you call it, it's h202) at 130 volumes, you buy it in color shops, it's used to remove paintings.With such a mix (not breath it though!) you have a complete incision in about 10 minutes, without any need for heating the solution, and you can clearly see the copper being asported (no wondering about completition anymore).Just remember this solution is dangerous as much as the standard acid.You can use it in a plastic bowl without problems (or at least i do so).Forgot to say: i don't take any responsibility for any damage to things or persons or whatever it may occur by using the solution i mention. it is not invented by me, i just read about it. Remember not to breath it!!! Use it a very very very well aired room.Disposing is easy: just add water, and leave it on your balcony for 30/60 minutes, and then in the wc. Or if you are in a hurry, add a lot of water and some sodium bicarbonate.The more the water you add, the less active the solution.

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Guest jpcxcf

Hi George,I've used a photo sensitive board.You can download it here:http://www.totalshareware.com/asp/detail_v...pplication=37061- Print on transparency with the best quality so that the black are real black.The image will be 100% correct.2- Use an photo sensitive board, peel off the protection and put the transparency on top of the board in a dark room and light it with a UV light. I've got a machine in my company and this only takes 2,5 to 3 minutes.3- Take the transparency off and put the board in a solution with the kind of liquid that you use to clean the floor .You'll notice that the board will be left only with the traces of the printing.Wash in cold water.4- Put the drye board in a solution of percloret of sodium and after 10 to 15 minutes you'll be left with a board free of copper.Wash it and I normally use alcool to clean it afterwards.5- Then all you have to do is to make the holes and start putting the components.Best regards,Pedro

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Guest GeorgeDorkofikis

Thanks PedroIt have been years since I last did this process... Last time must have been in 1982 or something! It's all getting back to me. Only then I had the transparencies ready from a magazine. Now I have to print them myself.I have a Lexmark Z52 Inkjet. Do you think it will do the job or shall I use a laser at the office ?Thanks!George DorkofikisAthens, Greece

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Guest jpcxcf

Hi George, I'm using an EPSON640 so your Lexmark should work without any problems, just remember it has to deliver real black lines.You can check the resutl of the board in another thread that I put yesterday called "CRJ cockpit" .Good luck.Pedro

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www.dvcweb.nl look at this site.It is a company in the netherlands that makes PCB's and it is very cheap.If you have a pcb of 10 x 16 cm it is only

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Guest

Hi Norbert.Does the site have an English version?Thanks,Jim

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Hi JimAs far as I know No.But just mail them in English. Everybody in the Netherlands can understand English. Their site is very simple. Mail what you would like to order to them, pay and they send the pcb's to you. The prices speak for themselves.I know from another dutch guy who ordered fsbus pcb's from them.http://home.hccnet.nl/r.vries/good luckNorbert

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