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Aura Tactile Transducers/Bass shakers?

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Hi guys,I'm pretty interested with these things i've been reading about for flightsim use, howerver I don't really know how to install them. Do I just wire them up to my audio out or will I need a separate amplifier? Thanks.Cheers,Peter

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Guest MikePowell

Definitely need an amp, Peter.Mikewww.mikesflightdeck.com

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Hi Mike,Thanks very much. I'm using an Audigy soundcard and it has a center speaker out. Will this be capable of powering the unit(s)? Or still no good? Hehe thanks.Peter :)

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Give a good guess :-)Those things probably need quite a lot of kick, and the computer subwoofers usually are "active" meaning they have an integrated amp.I am thinking about those things as well, but havent looked at the stuff in detail yet as there is a lot more to be done first. But I would ask from the place I got the transducers about wiring options.Tuomas

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Guest MikePowell

Peter,Bass shakers are connected the same as woofers. They have power ratings on them as well. For example: 25 watts continuous, 50 watts peak. This varies by model. Unless you buy a powered shaker, you'll need an amp.Mikewww.mikesflightdeck.comInfo for simpit builders

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Hi Mike, TigerT,Thanks for your help guys. I'm pretty new at these audio stuff... I'm getting the 25-watt version. (35w max) (1 pair) I guess you guys know that typical Aura model... would any of you know the amp requirement these units will be needing to work properly/safely? 30w? 50w?Thanks! :)Peter

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Guest MikePowell

Peter,I tend to do my electronics shopping at flea markets and junk shops, so I'm not up to date on amp brands. I can't give you a good recommendation other than to say don't exceed the power ratings on the shakers. Perhaps Tuomas has some thoughts. Mikewww.mikesflightdeck.com

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Hi Peter, Tactile transducers sometimes have a sharp resonance excursion peak. (at least the ones I build, see DIY cockpit controls doc in the library)Therefore you probably don't want to run too much power in them. (defenitely not over the rated figure) Also the shaking power will be quite sufficient with 20 ~ 30 Watts (rms). More power just means that you'll have more of rattling sounds and problems to take care of.As I mentioned in the doc, a shaker under your seat is obvious, but don't underestimate the vibration sensitivity of your feet and hands. It feels pretty fake to have your bottom shaking while your feet are still on solid ground. Keep in mind that amp output power is dependend on speaker impedance. Amp spec should mention that. If an amp is specified 30W @ 8 Ohms and you connect 4 Ohms to it, you would get 60W theoretically (if the amp can handle that). Otherway around, car amps specified at 30W @ 4 Ohms will only deliver 15W in 8 Ohms. A car radio amp should be a reasonable choice for your transducers, but again make sure you check the power spec @ X Ohms. Note: Honest amp power spec is RMS (Root Mean Square) figure. Don't believe those fake PMPO figures (2x1000W or more) A last comment: If you drive transducers with a standard amp (full frequency range 20 - 20,000 Hz, you'll hear the high frequencies coming from the transducer as well. A subwoofer amp will have a high frequency cut-off filter build in. My amp designs in the DIY doc show you how to build these filters yourself (passive multi stage RC already works well)Roland

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Roland, Thanks very much, just what I needed.Thanks a lot guys! I'll report back to you when I finish my project.Cheers,Peter

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Yea, same here. I am not a big Hi-Fi guy myself either. But I need to look into this stuff for the C172 sim we are building at the aviation club, so I will follow this thread with interest :-)I would assume one needs to have a lowpass filter or such for those since you need the low frequencies only. Makes no sense to feed all the frequency scale to them.Do you know someone who has "home theater" stuff as their hobby? Those people should know. Or maybe someone at a specialized "home theater" shop.I would think there are two ways to go with the audio stuff: home theater/home stereo system or car amplifier + speakers. PC power supply probably cannot give enough current for car amp though, but if one gets a beefy 12V supply it is useful for other stuff in the cockpit as well. Depending on how big scale stuff you are wanting to build.Good luck :)Tuomas

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Wow, thanks Roland.I remember reading your transducer article, I will need to re-read it now that we are doing the enclosed cockpit sim at the club. Some transducers under the pilot's butt (and good idea, under the feet) should give a nice sensation of movement. No motion but pretty much the best you can do without.Actually, let me link a pic of it, since we have had a bit less photos lately. Those are always inspiring to me so maybe this will be a delight to someone else this time :-)http://tigert.gimp.org/vatsim/cockpit-stuf...u-2003-july.jpgThe instruments are from www.simkits.com, the frame is a C150 fuselage section that was written off in 1984 and since then used as a source of spare parts. So everything inside the thing is built from plywood and such. The trim wheel is original though :-)There's a lot to do, still missing yoke and pedals and stuff, but the collimated display and the gauges do magic.This pic shows how much there is still to be done :-)http://tigert.gimp.org/vatsim/cockpit-stuf...2-2003-july.jpgIt's a good start though. The radios and switches will be done with FSBUS.Tuomas

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Guest AirPanther

Car subwoofers were the first thing to pop into my mind too. Let me mention a few important things about car speakers that you may or may not already know.1. The smaller the speaker, the better it's frequency response. Larger speakers with larger cones take a longer time tim "recoil" from inputs. They will give you more powerful "punches", but they are less desireable for audio at semi-constant levels.2. Buy name brand. Car subwoofers are typically "you get what you pay for". You can go out and buy a 8" Rocford Fosgate Punch Z for like $50, but the sound depth, clarity and power will NOT COMPARE to a 8" Fosgate HE ($80). A good Fosgate HE or JL Audio will produce impressive lows, which is why they're so desireable for competitions. They are small with a large RMS. These are rated at 200 RMS, 400 max!!Here is the Fosgate 8" RFP4408 woofer at Best Buy:http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id...61&type=product3. Because your flights will last for hours at times, make sure you operate your speakers at as close to RMS as possible. When you start operating above RMS for long periods of time, you put quick wear on your speaker. Also, watch having to bridge your amp. These things are ok for a few minutes, but during a flight your equipment may start to heat up.4. A subwoofer can be amplified significantly with a good enclosure. You may want to build a miniature bandpass or ported enclosure for your unit. Recommended port dimensions are listed in the book that comes with the speakers. Boxes also reduce distortion and control the amount of air your speakers can displace.Hope this helps,Roberthttp://www.777Project.cjb.net

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