Here is the gear lever compared to the real thing.Tnx to Claude Kiefer from the forum here for sending me this lever-weel tip.Nothing left to do but sand it a bit, drill a hole, fit it on a stick and make the mechanic behind the panel.TNX !http://users.skynet.be/plipke/PF50HC/tmp/DSCF0002.JPG

Glad to see you doing so well!

looking real good-- BTW who's claude? is he one of other simbuilder?

He is.I came upon his site tnx to the survey topic here and noticed that the gear-lever-tip he made was perfect for the F50 ! So I asked him via e-mail if he could make me an other one.It is, as you can see on his site, a silicone imprint from an RC-airplane wheel (4cm diam) in which he poured transparant ... plastic if you will.All left to do is sand the grouves from the wheel (in my case no problem because no grouves in real as you can see)Let me add a few pic from the mechanism behind the panel:http://users.skynet.be/plipke/PF50HC/tmp/DSCF0003.JPGhttp://users.skynet.be/plipke/PF50HC/tmp/DSCF0004.JPGThe silver allu part has a long hol trough it so that it can be pulled in and out over the axis. The copper part has a normal hol trough it and moves with the allu part. Then the allu part is connected with the copper part via a pull spring.All left to do was to glue the 2 switches into place such that the lever would just press it all the way.I'm trying to make a movie. SBY for url.

Here's an avi to download if you're interested in what it looks like moving.http://users.skynet.be/plipke/PF50HC/tmp/GearLever.wmv

>Here's an avi to download if you're interested in what it>looks like moving.>>http://users.skynet.be/plipke/PF50HC/tmp/GearLever.wmvThis is pretty slick. The model plane wheel indeed looks right and is about the correct size. Neat.Btw, if you paint those screws with the same color as the panel (use a dry'ish brush to "tap" the paint on it to avoid a blob of paint that looks bad) - so you could paint the screw ends and a bunch of washer plates so it might look pretty much like the one on the real photo. Small details do *so much* - we painted the screws matt black with spray paint and it looks very good:http://tigert.gimp.org/tigert-albums/simu_...e/aah.sized.jpgOf course those will wear out if you need to unscrew the panels a lot - but that will just add to the realism feel :)//Tuomas

This is exactly what I plan to do.But not just yet for 2 reasons:1) need to take the panel out still to often (as you said)2) haven't found short enough (3mm) screws yet with the big headif they are longer they push the panel away from the display behind them.i'm pretty sure that the best option will be to buy normal ones and just cut them off, and just glue the screw-thing on the panel, then paint them.

Hi Philippe, glad to see what you have done with my wheel... after some trimming, cutting and sanding :-) Keep up that very good work. Claude Kiefferhttp://projetb777.free.fr

Hi Phillipe, Good job on that gear lever and video! Honestly, I can't wait to have something to make a video of!

Yep, makes sense.Hey, how did you do the warning announciators? I was thinking "smoke" colored acrylic cut into rectangles, but that requires some tools - ideally one would use something ready-made for some other purpose that is cheap :) But I havent found anything like that yet.//Tuomas

I am a user of. Works great.Roger

normal plexy glasscut & break into piecesthen paint them with transparent dark brown wood paint. the kind of paint that leaves you to see the wood grain.i'm not sure 'bout the result yet. now it seems a little brown but i've noticed that if i put a black printed paper behind it, it becomes less brown and more black.i will put black printed paper with white letters on them, then a led behind.

Tigert, if you use lexan, it does not chip, and very easy to cut with a hacksaw. Then, if needed use a file to size it down to where you want it. Actually I use a band saw. Rather then smoked colored lexan or acrylic, which can be quite expensive, you can use Autoglass tinting film on the back side of the lexan. Just another option:)

>Tigert, if you use lexan, it does not chip, and very easy to>cut with a hacksaw. Then, if needed use a file to size it down>to where you want it. Actually I use a band saw. Rather then>smoked colored lexan or acrylic, which can be quite expensive,>you can use Autoglass tinting film on the back side of the>lexan. Just another option:)Yea. I was just thinking about the car window "shader" tint film myself too - when doing radio 7-segment stuff for "Bendix/King" mockup panels - clear plexi/lexan and maybe silkscreen or paint the panel layout on the backside, leave a clear "window" for the digits and put a tint film behind everything, then mount this against a "milk" colored plexi backing plate. Might work and would make a nice shaded look for the radio digits.//Tuomas

My answer landed in a wrong thread. It was intend to land into the EICAS thread,Sorry.Roger