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Guest spiliot_
Posted

Hi everybody. During the christmas holidays I started working on my panels, but had no camera then.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105550.jpgThe panels have 3 layers. The first is standard paper printed with a (fairly accurate as I believe) draw made in corel. Under that I have 2 layers of black transparency legend (one is mirrored so that both are glued at the printed side and I have no problems touching it later on).Transparencies and paper are glued together and supported on a clear plexi. The holes on the plexi are cut out approximetely with a dremel tool, no need for accurancy as the paper and transparency covers everything.Finaly, I have put a sticky clear plastic sheet on top (one that is used to protect children book covers) that protects the paper. It also gives a different feel than paper.Then I created the buttons as well using 2 transparencies (one mirrored) and inserting in between a white paper, with a small window cut out at the top. This way the "ON window" part is clear when the switch is off and illuminates green when on, while the legend is always white and can also be illuminated in the night. After sticking the clear plastic sheet on top, it looks and feels like the real thing. I put it on plexi cut out in the buttons dimentions and under that all that is needed is the leds and a normal switch.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105551.jpghttp://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105552.jpgHope the photos explain more than I and my poor english could!http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105553.jpgLastly, the color of the FCU window is dark red, that normally looks black, only comes out red when flash is used (just like the... real window!). This way the (red) 7-segments show up better.PS. I have also tried the backlighting which looks great, but no time now to set-up and shoot...!

Posted

Great work, looking really nice.What kind of glue do you use?Johan

Guest spiliot_
Posted

I'm using a silicon based glue that when it dries is pretty clear and doesn't create smuts on the paper. It also doesn't dry very quickly and can be easilly applied.It's called LOGO Silic.Beware, as it says on the label, it is toxic before it dries, so it shouldn't be applied with bare hands.

Guest spiliot_
Posted

I shot a few more pictures This is the (homemade prototype) PCB of the LEDS and switch.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105751.jpgIt will be supported on a second plexi, about 5cm to the back of the panel, thus the screws.The PCB is adjusted so that the switch just touches the button, holding it into it's place. When the button is pressed, it moves about 1-2mm down, closes the switch and stops on the LEDs. Don't know how deep these buttons are depressed, but experimented with other switches that went further down and it didn't seem good.This is how the backlighting looks with ambient light in the room, while the AP1 is ON.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105752.jpgThe light that comes out of the outline will be blocked by painting the invisible parts of the button (the plexi base) black.Same picture only now without any light in the room.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105753.jpgLastly one with the camera flash simulating a sunny day ;-)The backlighting is also on, but doesn't show up.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/105754.jpgAs you can see, the ON light is strong enough to be seen.

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