http://wiki.varxec.net/eaton_typeCheck it, and let me know what you think !

I found 20mm squared allu profile and 16mm that just fits inside the 20mm. I've sawn off 2 pieces to try it and it looks great! All I need to do to fit them into the 19.9mm holes of the real panels is sand them a bit.It looks as though there won't be that much visual difference with the real ones, so I'm happy.I'll take the profiles to school once I find time and saw them there with power tools.This idea is coming along great :)

http://wiki.varxec.net/Eaton_pictureshere are some pictures of my progress.

Good idea Philippe, and you do not need backplates with your design. I did use backplates and it certainly comlicates things like soldering. I suppose, you glue the green movable parts in your design to the red surface of your pushbutton(otherwise it would fell of when in an overhead panel).regardsNorberthttp://home.wanado.nl/norbert.bosch/

Ah, yes. You found something that is missing from my tutorial ;)Indeed, your switch hat is glued to the red switch hat of the real switch. Preferably with something in between. I have such a switch and if you try to press it flat on a table (switch hat facing down) sometimes it doesn't "klick". The switch hat needs to "sink" a bit inside the house of the switch.Indeed there are advantages to this type of switch. No need for backlplates was something I never thought about but I never have wanted to need them either. As said, you could fix the real switch to a backplate, if you want. This way you could remove the backplate and thus be able to reach/replace the real switch.

Excuse my ignorance, but apart from the company name, is there any other difference between a Korry switch and an Eaton switch ?George DorkofikisAthens, Hellashttp://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.png

Phillipe,Nice tutorial,....It might be easier to use 2 components resin instead of glue to fill up your profiles. See my tutorial on making small parts !! For this purpose you should of course use transparant resin which is also available!!http://home.hccnet.nl/jwopdenakker/buildin...ip.html#Ggeo316Regards,Jeroen op den Akker

Good question. I have no idea either. Maybe they have different size, I don't know.Eaton fits in a 19.9mm square hole. The switchhat is 16mm.If I look at the korry website they have 5/8inch shown as dimension which is nearly 16mm. So if that's the hat-dimension, they are equal seen from inside the cockpit.So as far as I can see, yes they are equal.

Jeroen,I have done this molding thing myself and my experiance is that this ain't cheap at all.I think that if I get 2 buckets of resin components I'll have a lot of leftovers. Hotmeltglue however can be purchased in small tubes and I think it's not that expencive. Hotmelt glue has a certain softness, but if you fill up a qube of that size, it'll be hard enough. The plus is that if you ever need to get the leds out (for replacement) it sufice just to add heat and it'll melt again.All I can say is .. I used poly-urethane and I've used hot-melt and I can honestly say .. I prefer to go for the glue. It's fast, it's easy, it's not toxic, there's no waste, ...

I happen to have a real korry switch here and the tap measures exactly 16mm square, so they must be the same.George DorkofikisAthens, Hellashttp://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.png

Excellent. So my design works for both Eaton and Korry.

I'm testing this idea as well...first result:http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/162483.jpgOne thing I'm a bit worried about tough: as you can see in the picture, the sides are not completely sealed of, so light will come through. Maybe it's a better idea to put the legends on top of the switchhat, instead of in them...

Light bleeding trough can be sealed off just as easy with a tiny brush and some black paint. The reason for not putting the legends on top of the switchhat is that you might just as well not use an inner profile then. The profile is there also to give a "frame" around your legend.