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CH Single Yoke - How Do You Make it for a Twin ?

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Hi All:I'd like to build my own throttle quadrant for a King Air I am planning. I have a question. The throttle quadrant will have 6 levers - 2 throttle, 2 prop and 2 fuel condition, basically double what you have on todays single CH flight yoke (which I already have - USB).I think I cannot use a 15 pin game port adapter. I read a previous article saying the best way would be to trash an old USB joystick and use the existing circuitry. I have a CH USB now, what would be the easiest way to double the amount of levers and make it work USB style. I will use Rob's excellent "How to build 4 engine Throttle article" If anyone has any thoughts/help please let me know....thanksJB

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JB, I want to do the same thing, (Build a 6 lever throttle) and from what I have read it looks like you will need to connect them as two seperate controllers to get that many axis's to work. I am not sure of this but I think by using a Gameport to USB adaptor you will be able to put 4 axis's on one controller then 2 on the other, while you are at it you may as well make the second one 4 axis's as well then assign them to flaps and trim. That is what I plan to do. Someone with experience in this area feel free to correct me if I am wrong.http://www.ktone.org/images/FSD_ken.jpg

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Ahh.. the name is Ken and not "Blow" :-)Missed that in the other threads :-)And yes, your statement is true and complete.I know at least a dozen people that have built just that and are using it this way.I have a setup with one USB Yoke, and several home-built controllers using 3 gameport-USB convertors simultaneously.FS2K2 really is the most flexible program I know of, that lets you assign any axis of any controller to any function in any combination.Cheers, Rob Barendregt

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Thanks everyone for your helpful comments. This where I am. I have built the 6 lever set-up per Rob's intructions. Now, based on all your helpful comments should I:1) My CH USB has three pots on it now. I was going to assign the 2 throttles and connect into the USB connector and straight to the PC2) The 2-prop and 2-fuel condition levers would connect into a 15pin gameport connector directly into PC. I am not sure how to make a USB connector so this is why I would use 15pinner.4)I am also starting with 6 new pots (100K) as the CH ones couldn't be adapted to Rob's method (no threads on shaft)...will this be a problem at all from a USB standpoint ?3) In the replies above everyone mentione Gameport-USB connector. What would I use this for ? Maybe I'm missing something ?...this is all new to me and I'm learning everyday.Thanks for all you help...JB

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JB,The gameport and the USB connection are two very different beasties. The gameport was developed long ago during the time of hand-carved, wooden transistors (old, old, old). Back then hardware was expensive so the gameport was made with few parts and of a simple design. It interfaces 4 pots and 4 single pole, single throw switches (usually momentary push buttons). The joysticks that plug into gameports generally have nothing beyond pots and switches. Pretty basic stuff.USB came along a lot later, and was intended to be quite literally a "universal" replacement for getting into and out of a PC. USB is a bit serial data bus that "knows" nothing about joysticks. It is simply a conduit for rapidly moving data.USB is now used by game controller manufacturers as a means to connect their joysticks, pedals, wheels, etc. to the host PC. USB has a fairly involved protocol for detecting connected devices, signaling status and moving data. A pot or a switch cannot be directly connected to a USB port. A micro controller must be used to sense the state of switches and pots, then manage the USB protocol to communicate this state to the host. USB is bidirectional and allows modern game controllers to be much more sophisticated. Yesterday you got a knob moving a PONG paddle, today you get force feedback.So, this is where USB - gameport converters come in. These devices allow you to use an old-style joystick designed for a gameport on a USB configured host PC. Radio Shack sells one for under $20, last I heard. A somewhat more expensive ($26~$50) one is made by Rockfire and is available through a number of on-line vendors.When it comes to interfacing your new pots to your PC, you have three reasonably straightforward approaches. First, you can simply connect directly to a gameport. Second, you can (as you mentioned) use the circuitry from a USB game controller of some sort. Third, you can connect to the gameport side on a USB-gameport converter and plug the converter into a USB port or hub. All three approaches will likely require a bit a fiddling with drivers or configuration files, but I would not expect any show stoppers.Mikewww.mikesflightdeck.comInfo for simpit buildersEDIT:I forgot to mention that the threads on your new pots won't be a problem. All you need to worry about is getting linear taper pots, as opposed to the highly non-linear "log" or "audio" tapers. Also it's good insurance against electrical noise pickup to use shielded wire when connecting them.

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JB:I used two CH FltSim Yokes. Removed the pots leaving them in the origional mounts. Cut them out of the CH yokes. placed them in the back of my new dual P/T/M box. Linked the leaver with RC linkage from hoby store as per pic. If you need more info let me know..FOX

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Hi Fox....I like your approach. Can you e-mail more detailed pictures of how you did it ? I tried another way but am having alot of problems with noise. I've tried using shielded wire, soldering shield to pots etc...but still having problems...like to try your apporach...thanks...JB e-mail JBRobertsman@aol.com

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Yes I can do that but first ... I posted some info in the Homemade Throtle resistence under $20(Pictures) by James..If you have a CH Yoke with T/P/M USB then you need to order one more.Now you have two CH Yokes... 2T/2P/2M (six axis to work with and all can be assigned wihtin FS2k2. I don't know about the turbo thing as I fly twin piston type R4D/C-47 ac. I will check this out and see if my mixture controls work with the turbo type ac. Both of the CH Yokes work in my setup and all switches are assigned. I have no noise. I also use USB rudders with this sys. I think the cost of the second CH Yoke out ways the hassel of mounting pots, elect. connection etc. in building from scratch.. All I had to do was remove the pots from both Yokes and install them into my new control box.. splic the pots back to the yokes( two ft' of wire) and everyting worked. If you are still instrested in this type setup, let me know and I will e-mail you as best I can. I think I posted pictures in the above post. FOX.

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JB I think you can see in the pic above that the pots are still in there origional mounts as I simple cut around the outside line that you can see on your Ch Yoke. If you look inside the Yoke, you can see how the pots are mounted. Make sure you stay out side the mount suppost when cutting. If you have not looked inside you yoke ,there are two screws that are hidden under the back rubber feet. The others you can find ( 8 ) Nothing going to fall out, Maybe a couple nuts but you will know where they go.. When putting it bck togeather make sure the leaver that fits under the push/pull rod is in its slot.. Also I bought some white lub that is safe for plastic from a local hobby store and used it where needed...Makes the yoke operate smoooth... PS There is a quick disconnect to the pots so this make the soldering (splicing in the 2ft of wire ) simple.. OK,let me know where you want to go with this... E-mail or stay here....FOX

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Fuel Condition????? I think this is you young birds name for fuel/air/mixture..... MIXTURE CONTROL in the C-47 FOX...PS...I know...It's turboooo and alway running at the same RPM's, but it will always be mixture to me....FOX

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