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Posted

Hi,I do experience a very strange behavior of Windows 98 SE.My Pedestal, finished last week, does use three circuits stripped of from three different USB joysticks. Trust - Sidewinder - Eliminator. The Thrust circuits works well and was easy to calibrate.X = Throttle 1Y = Throttle 2Z = FlapsThe Sidewinder is very difficult to calibrate. It's bouncing, but with patience I get it.X= Prop 1Y= Prop 2Z= Trim ElevatorThe Eliminator is very jerky, more than difficult to calibrateX= Mixture 1Y= Mixture 2Z= Rudder PedalsAs I said, the calibrating is frustrating, but what happen and is strange and usual, it's that I am always loosing all the calibrating sometimes after a reboot of Windows sometimes two days later.All Axis have been set with patience in FSUIPC. By the way how does FSUIPC work as regards the Windows basic calibrating ???Thanks a lot for your experienceRegardsRoger

Posted

I have to explain a bit more. Do have the impression That I am not that clear.The strange and UNusual thing is that I loose all Windows Joystick settings.

Posted

I did find the causes of my problem.The Sidewinder and the Eliminator circuits are "auto-calibrating" which means, a new calibration on each boot of windows.Since joysticks are usually "centered" due to their spring, the auto-calibration is always perfect.But I do use these axis for Prop and Mixture which are usually after a flight on "Feather" and "Cut-off" position. When Windows reboots, the pot are at max 100kohm and the new "auto-calibration" is totallywrong. So I heard about small programs allowing the override of that factory setting, but havent find them yet. So be aware before you strip of a usb joystick for use on you cockpit.It must be a NON " auto-calibrating" one. Roger

Posted

>The Sidewinder and the Eliminator circuits are >"auto-calibrating" which means, a new calibration on each >boot of windows. >Since joysticks are usually "centered" due to their spring, >the auto-calibration is always perfect. >But I do use these axis for Prop and Mixture which are >usually after a flight on "Feather" and "Cut-off" position. >When Windows reboots, the pot are at max 100kohm and the new >"auto-calibration" is totally >wrong. >>So I heard about small programs allowing the override of >that factory setting, but havent find them yet. Interesting. Good thing to know :-)What you could do is do small marks on each of those levers and when you boot, have a "simulator bootup checklist" :-) where you first check that all the levers are in center position. Just measure the halfway of the travel and put a small mark there so you know where to put them, then boot up so they are in the same spot every time.That's a bit of a job, but should work.Tuomas

Posted

What about putting a small bar across the throttle arms at center position. Then, when you boot up, just make sure all the throttles are pressed against the bar. Once you're booted, remove the bar. Think of it as a "throttle lock" to keep someone from stealing your plane. ;-)Peter http://bfu.avsim.net/sigpics/PeterR.gifBFU Forums Moderator[table border=2 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=1][tr][td][table border=0 cellpadding=8 cellspacing=0][tr][td bgcolor=#540000]http://bfu.avsim.net/sigpics/logo75t.gif[/td][td align="center" bgcolor=#FFFFF6]Bush Flying Unlimited"At home in the wild"Looking for adventure? Come join us! * [link:bfu.avsim.net|Web Site] * [link:www.cafepress.com/bfu,bfu2,bfu3,bfu4|BFU Store] * [link:bfu.avsim.net/join.htm]Join!][/td][/tr][/table][/td][/tr][/table

Posted

HiIs it not possible to eliminate the autocalibrating software?Just put the pots to the gameport or the (via a convertor) usb port.Make your own joystick in windows (for example 3 axis and 2 buttons or whatever and it will be recognised as a normal non autocalibrating pot. I connected pots to the gameport and it worked fine this way.Norbert Bosch

Posted

>Hi >>Is it not possible to eliminate the autocalibrating >software? >>Just put the pots to the gameport or the (via a convertor) >usb port. >Make your own joystick in windows (for example 3 axis and 2 >buttons or whatever and it will be recognised as a normal >non autocalibrating pot. I connected pots to the gameport >and it worked fine this way. Yea, but Roger would need 3 gameports or 3 gameport -> USB thingies.Roger, didnt you have FSBUS? Build two analog-in modules, those then can do 16 pots, should be enough for a 4-engine prop..But since you have the joysticks already, the throttle bar thing sounds like a doable idea, real planes do have such control locks anyway, so it is not that unrealistic either, just do a |____| -shaped thing (upside-down thanks to ASCII-limitations :-) and drill two precise holes to the throttle box so that you can stick it accross the throttles range, pushing the levers against that one should give quite good precision, no?Tuomas

Posted

Hi Peter,Great thought! Indeed. Will see that way if there is no other solution.Roger

Posted

Norbert,Its' not possible since the autocalibrating soft is in the hardware.If there is a trick to rewrite the eproms, I would do it but it is far from my knowledge.It works as follow. Each time when windows boots up, the system talks all "plug and play" interfaces. When asking the concerned hardware, the response is " calibrate now ". then windows sets the calibrating based on the current potentiometers position.It's feature for people who are not aware how to calibrate correctly a jostick. It's a real " Plug and Play" feature.You second proposal is interesting, but unfortunately the gameport of my soundcard does not work at all. Its' why I went USB.But I will look that way befor I am going to strip of a new joystick.Roger

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