Is there any major disadvantage in using the game port over a USB port for my homemade throttles? It seems that the game port would be cheaper, because all I would need is a gameport cable and 4 pots. If I were to use a USB port, I'd basically need to buy a USB joystick, cut it open, and connect my pots directly to its' internal circuit board.Any thoughts?Kenneth

I'm also wondering if it is possible to somehow wire pots through a USB port on my computer. Or use a DB-15 to USB adaptor? Ideas?

Nope, you cannot wire directly to a USB port. USB is a high speed serial protocol for transfering digital data.But you can wire directly to a USB gameport adapter (DB-15 to USB) like the one from Radio Shack (~$15)... although that particular one apparently only has a 32 step resolution on its analog inputs, which is okay for some purposes, bad for others.Sidenote to others: The RS adapter portays itself as a four axis, 8 button port. I'm wondering how in the world you get 8 buttons? Is that only in gamepad mode?A cool thing you can do is set the RS adapter in Joystick B mode, and then the second X axis becomes a hat switch with 4 outputs (buttons 32,34,36,38). Hook up a pot or a multiposition switch with resistors, and you've gained a "4-button" switch that can be used (with FSUIPC conditional coding) as a rotary, or perhaps as a magneto switch, etc.Another thing about the RS adapter is that you seem to need to put a resistor on axis X1 (if you aren't using that axis), otherwise the adapter doesn't seem to get started reading any other inputs.Kevin

Problem with the HAT function on the RS adapter is that you loose the throttle axis. It's an otherwise fine adapter for the price.Kenny: If you look on my site I have schematics for making your own USB adapters if you're comfortable with soldering your own stuff. You can then wire your pots and buttons directly to these adapters.As far as pros and cons of using conventional game port, you are limited to 4-axes and 4 buttons! Also you can

Kenneth, I have 2 sets of SunComm dual throttles (Gameport, one throttles, one props) now running through the radio shack adaptors and absoutletly hate them. I can never marry the throttles or prop speeds within an acceptable range. I also get studders and sometimes they just jump to a completely new calibration range. I am so sick of them that I built my own 6 lever throttle set and have it finished but have not installed the electronics yet. I am leaning on cutting out the three levers from my CH yoke and mounting them with R/C control pushrods to my levers under the quadrant. Then buying another CH yoke for the other three levers. I know this will be a bit expensive but it should be completely reliable and my experience with the USB CH yoke levers prove to be extremely smooth and I can get very fine incremental adjustments with them and no jitteres or hunting. My ultimate goal here is complete reliability and repeatability. I think USB is the only way to go.KenP.S. You have a cool name...LOL!

I would *assume* that USB-based axes would be more stable than analog, gameport ones.But, this discussion brings up a question. I have a well-used (4 or 5 years old) CH Products setup right now, including the F16 Combat Stick, Pro Throttle, and Pro Pedals. The Throttle, and to a lesser degree the joystick, have a noticeable jitter to them, so that the throttle control and yoke (or cyclic) shown in Virtual Cockpits appears to be very "nervous". I have been thinking about upgrading to the CH *USB* Pro Throttle, thinking that the digital nature of the interface would eliminate this jitter. Can anyone confirm this?Thx,Dave Blevins

Logitech sells a cheap joystick, the Wingman Attack 2, and I believe it has 3 pots and 6 buttons, which might be okay for some. Unfortunately, I do need a fourth axis for my throttle set up.