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Hollow shaft encoders

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Multiple shaft encoders are really costly and difficult to buy.But there is another solution: hollow shaft encoders.This way you can stack virtually any number of them.Even 10! (if you are good enough at machining anyway :()Now to find these!They aren't sold anywhere!I triedfarnellrs componentselfadigikeydistrelecAnd nobody has.The thing i am speaking about you can see herehttp://www3.alps.co.jp/pdf/2004pdf/pdf_e/S...corder_spec.pdfLook for the hollow shaft encoders.Any help where to find these would be helpfull.

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Conrad.de has them. Well, not encoders, but 12-position rotary switches with a 3mm hole through the 6mm shaft. See the flightxpress.de forum (linked from www.fsbus.de) and look for the thread called "Radioknopf".//Tuomas

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Hmm...That's a workaround i already knew of: just make a hole in a rotary, and put one on top of another...But that's a workaround.These encoders i linked are (should be) low cost, exactly as the ec11b models produced by ALPS.So if we could find those, we'd have our decent nav selectors.And anyway triple concentric with rotary switches are very difficult to make...

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Just did a quick check of Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) and Digikey (www.digikey.com). The only one that Mouser shows in their catalog if the ALPS EC05E (5mm). This is probably too small for you use. Digikey does sell a 22mm Panasonic hollow shaft encoder (Panasonic Part No. EVQ-1WF00210B, Digikey Part No. P12337-ND). You can look on Page 1052 of the Digikey catalog for further information.You may also be able to buy such an encoder directly from Grayhill, but I suspect that they are quite expensive!Hope this helps you with your search.Gerald Byrne

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Thank you for pointing me to Mouser, i found this [a href=http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&Ntt=*652ESD0DS00GC0024*&Dk=1&terms=652-ESD0D-S00-GC0024&D=652-ESD0D-S00-GC0024&N=0&crc=true]shaftless encoder[/a]Unfortunately the Panasonic one has 20det/10pulse which is a nuisance, as half the detents then do nothing in the program.Thank you for your info!

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I've discovered that triple rotaries with push buttons are easy for me to make, as I can very easily source 2mm, 4mm and 6mm hollow brass tubes. Inserting a thin welding rod through the 2mm tube allows for a push button to be fitted.As for the knobs themselves, I used knobs with 6mm and 4mm collets, and with the 2mm shaft I cut a short section of 4mm and epoxied it to the end of a 2mm shaft so that the knob will fit.Same technique for stacking rotaries are used, so I don't think there's much point explaining that here :)Hope that's been of some use!

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Hmmm....I don't like rotary switches adapted to encoders... they don't have the feel :DAnd i also need to buy a drilling column :(Edit: may i ask what do you use the button for?Only triple concentric i have seen are for ADF or somewhere for XPDR.They don't need a pushbutton in that place...

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Personally I don't use the button on triple rotaries, but if someone wants to....

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>Hmmm....>I don't like rotary switches adapted to encoders... they don't>have the feel :D>And i also need to buy a drilling column :(>>Edit: may i ask what do you use the button for?>Only triple concentric i have seen are for ADF or somewhere>for XPDR.>They don't need a pushbutton in that place...The ones we used for our radios have pretty correct "feel" - the real bendix/king radios feel quite the same. The feel *needs* to be quite strong so you can adjust them in turbulent conditions - that's the reason all switches and knobs in a cockpit have a distinctive "click" - so you know when you pressed or turned. Feedback is important.Anyway, we did ours with a better switch on the inner shaft:http://tigert.gimp.org/tigert-albums/homec...e/aac.sized.jpghttp://tigert.gimp.org/tigert-albums/homec...e/aab.sized.jpgAlso, the conrad rotaries have a hole through already, so I am going to look into them for future needs.//Tuomas

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Another question:the rotary i have in hand is 6mm outside shaft diameter...How could you make a triple with this?6-4-2-1?Or do you have bigger ones?

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You have to cut the shafts off the rotaries and glue the new tubes onto the rotary base. Using brass tubing (which usually comes as 0.5mm thickness), you can sit a 4mm tube inside the 6mm, and a 2mm inside the 4mm with room to spare so you don't get friction. The 2mm being hollow has enough room for a thin rod (I use thin welding rods) to sit inside it.Is that clear enough? Or should I rephrase it since I seem to be the only one who knows what I'm talking about :(

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Understood thanks.It's just that i never did anything like that :(

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Hi Tuomas,Looks very good.Where did you get the knobs from?

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From the local electronics store. The larger are for 6mm shaft and the smaller is for 4mm. The larger one is tightened wiht a nut, so optionally the smaller shaft can run through it and you can attach the small knob next to it. The smaller one has a screw to tighten and then you put in a cap to cover it.Unfortunately I dont know any part numbers since the store is basically a junkyard, the dude buys whatever he finds cheap, so one can find interesting stuff (like a bunch of the ALPS encoders for 1 euro a piece :)) - but there is no guarantee of having the same components the next day or month ..//Tuomas

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Thanks Tuomas.After posting I have found some in Mouser.Part no: 550-10501 is the small one, 550-10011 cap and 550-15601 the large one.Maybe it helps someone :-)

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