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concentric rotary switch (can someone make them ?)

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Yesterday I made a visit to a CST (static trainer) and there I noticed that the nav concentric rotary is a rotary switch and not an encoder. You really feel the hard clicks.So now I am thinking of doing it the way fsbus does it with the rotary switch. (wire them to 3 inputs and then have the code determin if you go left or right).Someone can make me 4 of these concentric rotary switches ? I can pay via bank transfer or else via an international post sheck. No hurry though.I could try making them myself though .. but I got no column mounting for my drill which probably makes the job very hard to do.

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PhilipI just made a prototype and I am satisfied with the result. It is impossible to make it without a column mounted drill.In the coming time I will make more of these. It is not much work (after experimenting with the prototype) to make 4 extra.I will send you a pic of the prototype.See on my site at the electronics page for general information how to wire them.contact me on emailnorbert

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I'm also interested,Please post pic here so we all can shareJohan

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>I'm also interested,>Please post pic here so we all can share>>JohanAlso note that from www.CONRAD.de you can find a 12-position (even 4x3) rotary switch *with 3mm hole through the shaft* and another model with a 2.5mm shaft or so. Dirk used these:Home >> Elektronik >> Messtechnik >> Bauelemente >> Elektromechanische Bauelemente >> Schalter / Taster >> Drehschalter (Rotary switches, use google or babelfish translator to find your way around if you dont know german)There, see the first few BLACK 12-position rotaries?http://image01.conrad.com/xl/7000_7999/700...B_00_FB.EPS.jpgThose have *a 3mm HOLE through the 6mm shaft* if I understand correctly. Get 2.5mm metal rod, glue it to the "inner" switch hole and put it through the "outer" switch shaft. No drilling needed.Look through this thread: http://www.wcm.at/forum/showthread.php?threadid=137328Dirk's finished switch:http://www.wcm.at/forum/attachment.php?postid=1286355//Tuomas

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very interesting indeed.however how do you fix the "innter" switch then ?

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This is my prototype.The other shown rotary (I saw it in the Conrad Catalog) looks attractive, in any case a lot less work.Best type anyway to use is a 3 x 4 (less soldering than a 1 x 12)(see my website under electronics for more info about this)http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/87346.jpgnorbert

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>very interesting indeed.>>however how do you fix the "innter" switch then ?See that last url of my message. They also sell small pcboards that fit the switch (or maybe you can squeeze it to breadboard with some uhm, persuasion and pliers.. Then put a few bolts on the corners to hold it steady.Build your whole radio panel with switches and 7-segments on a breadboard, then fix that one board behind the frontplate..?//Tuomas

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Hi guys,I have a working a rotary switch prototype with a scheme like this:http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/87502.jpgNeed a little more work in the mechanical area (cam shaft, etc.).Have this problem yet: For turn back or forward 1 position I need jump over two notches (1 empty notch).Am working in a variant of this prototype

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This is very clever indeed and almost identical to what they have. However I don't understand that you say you need 2 clicks for 1 output to be generated ??? How can that be ?

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Hi Philippe,When change rotation sense I need two spring step notches for get the next switch signal. Next same rotation sense switch signal, one spring step, and so on. This is a dimensional (angle/distance) thing. http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/87517.jpgHere is another working switch project. In this case, when changing rotation sense, appears a dead angle until reach the switch click.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/87518.jpgRegards Dirk Trotteyn (SANT)

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we seen that plenty of times ..it has even been linked to from the wiki.problem still stands >> I got no column-drill (or whatever you call them).

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I have made a dual rotary acording to the above doc. See my pic in the thread above. I now see one big disdvantage. My panels will consist out of 2 layers of 3 mm plastic. If I would use the FDS elite series I do not have enough spare screwthread for the panel. The length is 7 mm. Two is taking op by the aluminium, so I have 5 mm left.How to fix the dual rotary to the panel?As an alternative I am planning to make the panels with the help of someone with a cnc machine. In that way I could make a square in the lower panel plate of 35 x 20 mm. The rotary would then be fixed to the superficial panellayer.Norbert

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Either that or you might want to glue the metal part to the plate ? If the round holl in the backplate as you say that 6mm plastic has a diameter bigger than the outer one from the screw, you can still take the rotary switch out of the system by removing the screw which would allow the rotary switch to be detached (not from the panel) but from the metal part.I got similar issue here. Not that the screwthread is to short, but cuz there simply is no darned screw delivered with these knitters :( Either I should go find some that fit or I should just glue the knitters onto the panel .. I am not so fond of that idea because I got the impression that those knitters from knitter-switch are rather low quality. They are very light, very small and almost 100% plastic (except for contacts f cours) which may make them wear out after some time.

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>Either that or you might want to glue the metal part to the>plate ? If the round holl in the backplate as you say that>6mm plastic has a diameter bigger than the outer one from the>screw, you can still take the rotary switch out of the system>by removing the screw which would allow the rotary switch to>be detached (not from the panel) but from the metal part.>>I got similar issue here. Not that the screwthread is to>short, but cuz there simply is no darned screw delivered with>these knitters :( Either I should go find some that fit or I>should just glue the knitters onto the panel .. I am not so>fond of that idea because I got the impression that those>knitters from knitter-switch are rather low quality. They are>very light, very small and almost 100% plastic (except for>contacts f cours) which may make them wear out after some>time.What if you make the hole on the outer panel larger so that the nut fits there? So the rotary is fixed on the backside layer only? Would that help? The knob on the outer rotary will likely be large enough to cover the nut.Also, if the shafts of your rotaries are long enough, you could attach one more layer behind the panel, maybe 2mm alu sheet or so where you screw the rotaries on and fix that behind the whole thing..? Or make smaller pieces for each rotary..?//Tuomas

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Nice solutions. I found another one myself: make screwthread in the aluminium square frame. So the upper rotarie is in fact attached to the frame without a nut. Then glue the frame to the panel. In that way it is still possible to remove the rotarie for replacement, service or whatever.

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>Nice solutions. >>I found another one myself: make screwthread in the aluminium>square frame. So the upper rotarie is in fact attached to the>frame without a nut. Then glue the frame to the panel. In that>way it is still possible to remove the rotarie for>replacement, service or whatever.Yea, I thought of that, but making threads without tools is hard, thus I thought there might be easier solutions.But nice that you found a way to do it :)//Tuomas

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