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Korry switch made easy via molding

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http://users.skynet.be/plipke/Switch.jpgThis is what I plan to make. I'll make a prototype mold and put 2 component plastic in it so that I obtain 1 first switch-hat. Then make a silicone mold of that one and produce 9 other switch-hats. Then make a silicone mold of the 10 switch-hats so that I can produce 10 at a time.The idea is to make a switch-hat which can hold a LED and on which you put a paper printed index and a squared bit of thin plastic (plexi or other). Then just slip those in your panel from the rear. Behind the panel comes a board in which will be mounted cheep switches and push buttons (preferably same shape). The "switch-hats" will rest against the real switches/buttons.Neat plan ?The idea is to make all switch-hats that I will need. Then cut the silicone mold into parts so that there is 1 switch-hat mold separately. Then I got 11 molds and I will sell those.Who's interested ?

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That's just a matter of drilling an extra hol into the switchhat and make it a bit bigger at the top with a dremel, make a new mold and there you go.I will probably sell some annunciator molds as well.

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Anyone out there knows a company which could make this type of plastic hat ? Might be interesting to find such a company and have them made with good machinery. Order 500 of those or so and sell them on to other simmers.If you take a very comon found switch and a pushbutton (which have same shape) and make sure it fits in the back .. it should be interesting enough for most simbuilders out there.

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You realize that Flightdeck solutions has similar full switch kits for $6 with laser engraved front labels?Those look like a pretty reasonable deal to me.As you most know, I am not a FDS affiliate of any kind, but much more a Do-It-Yourself -guy, but this seems just like a sensible way to get great looks for little effort with a reasonable price - if the photos do those justice, they seem to look good..Announciator kits are $2.50http://www.flightdecksolutions.com/_assets...s/277-large.jpgAnd the switch kits are $6 with the legends you want if I understand correctly, with two leds and momentary or on/off switch. Looks neat:http://www.flightdecksolutions.com/_assets...s/310-small.jpgAnyway, just throwing this in the air - it doesnt look like that bad of a deal for someone like me who is very much DIY for panels and such, but those might add a nice touch of realism and clean look for reasonable budget.Anyway, back to work, enough of that :)//Tuomas

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I know those exist. But to be honest .. $2.5 * 85 + $6 * 100 = a lot more than

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>I know those exist. But to be honest .. $2.5 * 85 + $6 *>100 = a lot more than

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Ok true true,But the next builder using my system won't need to pay

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*quote*Btw, try walking into a hardware store, walk throuhg it and try to NOT think of anything related to flight simulators and home cockpits.. It's HARD.. this is like a virus that clings to the brain*endquote*:-lol .. so true ! I never thought of trying not to think of it .. but each time I go to a hardware store I spend like waaaay to much time inside just walking around the iles checking EVERYTHING out to find ideas or things I might be able to use or transform into something usable.*quote*Also, I am thinking it also might work if one had a rectangle "hole" in the mold of the correct size (do a mockup announicator from balsawood or somethin and make a mold with the rubber - then put a transparency sheet wiht laser printed legend on the bottom, stick in some hot glue and stuff the leds into the glue.. let it cool down.. It might just work also.. I think I need to try that, it might work pretty nicely for announciator lights. The transparency film for laser printers should be able to handle at least some heat.*endquote*That's basicly what I am doing. The difference is that in real the "housing" has little borders to the "screen" of the annunciator. (at least in F50 cockpit). So that's what I am trying to do. The ones in the pics are too big. Or at least the "screen" is too far behind the front of the housing. But I've used my dremel :D and edited 1 a bit and thus this weekend I will make yet another mold and start all over. I'll probably use the ones I got already for the overhead. That doesn't matter that much and at least I won't waste the time/material I've spent.Indeed I will fill it up with hotmelt glue and push the leds in there while still liquid. Depends on which glue sticks you find wheather they are very transparent or not ;) I know cuz we just had a "design week" and we had to build bridges that reach over 1m which could hold a can of coke for 30 seconds and would weigh as little as possible using ... hotmelt glue and spaghetti-sticks :-lol so I've seen PLENTY different hotmelt glue guns & glue, trust me :) )I won't buy the laser engraved legends because they are transparent where the lettering is which makes (I believe) it too easy to see the led trough the lettering. The text needs to be white (smoked) and I think the sollution I got now is super. In the picture you can see the text quite a lot but that is due to the flash I think.And yes it's the mold itself that I will sell ;) That for +/-

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Kewl :)I've got the first prototype here and it fits the switch perfectly. The shape as well looks quite ok. Some work needs to be done with the dremel (led fits a bit off-center) and some of the edges can become a bit smaller.Too bad I got my cam at my dorm and I'm at home now. :(But it looks promissing. Pictures to follow soon!

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:-eekOutstanding job Philippe!A pity i don't have use for them in my 37, but they look way good!Congrats!

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Ok; dimension-talk time:The panel should have a gap of: 18.5mm * 18.5mmThe switch size is: 18mm * 18mmThe size of the 'glass' window part is: 15.5mm * 15mm( strange thing that all is squared exept for the window :-lol )The depth of the panel (thikness) should be ideally 6mm or 5mm.The total with (with the wings that hold the hat behind the panel) is 24mm * 24mm (but I will make that smaller so that switches can be mounted much closer together)

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Pictures are updated and so it seems they are not Korry but Eaton. Close enough to Korrys though. Anyone has a nice close-up of a real Korry to see the difference ?

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