MIP recommanded thickness...

[Guest comma]

Hello,All is in the title.Do you think using a 2.5mm thick plexi is OK for a DIY MIP or would you recommand using 4mm or more ?Thanks

[Guest GeorgeDorkofikis]

Before you decide you should research how much "depth" the hardware you are going to place on it have.For example if the type of switch you will use has a 4mm depth and you use a 3mm thick plexi it will just leave you 1mm for the nut.Furthermore, the more thick the plexi the more difficult to bend and more steady. The oposite for thin plexi. If the length of the piece is too long it may need support at the back so that it won't bend when you press a button or flip a switch.In my setup I have used 3mm thick plexi for my MCP and pedestal with good results, although it did need a small re-inforcement at the back in the middle so it won't bend when I press a button.Now, the MIP is going to be quite large. So I would recommend at least 4mm thick unless you reinforce the back with wood or something.You don't mention for which a/c type. If it's a glass cockpit a/c then it has to be thicker due to the large holes for the displays.On the other hand, if it's for a steam 727 then even 3mm can do the job as the round cuts will prevent the plexi from bending.But... What do I know?! I haven't even started that part on my home sim!!! :) Let's see what others have to say too. :)George DorkofikisAthens, Greecehttp://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.pnghttp://www.precisionmanuals.com/images/forum/betaimg.jpg

[Guest alexlaw]

My "CNC friend" suggested that 4mm ALUMINUM should be a minmum for my 800x240mm MIP. Mechanically it's stronger that 2.5. I imagine that plexi is even weaker.

[Guest comma]

it's for a 737, only captain side, approx 1 meter width somy problem is that here in my small island plexi piece are not cheap, for a 4 mm i'll have to pay approx 80

[Guest theporcupine]

I am using 9mm MDF and facing it with 2mm plexi. This gives it very good strength and allows the changing of panels as I wish.Mine is also just the Captains side of a 737NG(ish) type and just under a metre wide, the width of my workdesk. Check my site www.desktopflying.co.uk for pictures of my progress so far, will be more on there after public holiday on Monday as I hope to have the IOCards and hacked keyboard wired up for a few things. Just cant wait to tiddle a knob, push a button or throw a lever instead of keys and mouse.The Porcupineaka Simon Webbwww.desktopflying.co.ukVery slowely putting together a generic twin desktop unit.

[tigert]

Yeah, I was thinking plywood myself - if you do not need backlight (or, well, do those backlightable parts as separate plexi ones later if you absolutely need it) - our Cessna panel at the aviation club is 6mm plywood, the one at my home is 4mm. That's easy to work with, and it doesnt break as easily on the edge as MDF can - though MDF is smoother on the surface.http://gallery.tigert.com/tigert-albums/si...e/aag.sized.jpgBoth plywood and MDF are pretty good choices.//Tuomas

[fvapres]

The way I've seen an airliner done by someone, do the panel using MDF or plywood that will serve as the basis of your panel. Then, make cutouts in the panel for the lightplates for your lighted text parts. Any legends and backlit knobs/switches/buttons are attached to a piece that sticks out from the main paneling, usually 1/4" deep if my eyes are working right from the pictures in my memory...this is how i plan to do my paneling. Plus, to design your panels, it may help to get a schematic for them, even for a rough idea of their shape and placement...For the backlighting panels, a CNC mill is best used, but if you aren't up to buying or making one, a dremmel tool inverted and inserted into a table of your making and you can use it like a table saw for all those cuts you will need to make into your lexan/plexi material.For the legends, using the same tool and a fine hand, you can put your drawings for your panels onto some transparent sticky paper, paint your panel the final color, put the sticky panel layout on top, then cut through the paper and paint into the lexan/plexi. Lot of work with a dremmel, but a CNC mill is more designed for that little bitty work.Anyone got any better ideas before I go off and try these myself?

[Guest comma]

I'm not planning actually to backlight (to much work and wires), it will be ligthed by front, easierdon't have the patience to wait a year before building, i'm starting right now :) , my goal is to achieve something working and play a bit with it. And within a year or two, after my first "prototype", go for a serious build with commercial parts to be more precise.Well back to panel depth, i may go for MDF so, but 4mm will be okI'll add small panels of 2mm plexi, ths will do the trick for the special panelsHey theporcupine, i like your "desktop" project, very similar to me,room and money saving. how are you going to make the shell of your mip ?check my plan for it in the associated gif file1000 mm height930 mm width25 mm depthon wheelcertified waf complientSorry but my english has so much limit (french), can't figure what a " jigsaw " is

[Guest theporcupine]

I did have a plan for the case when I started this, but as all my plans seem to have been overtaken by actual build, I honestly do not know yet. I will think about that when the time is here!A 'jigsaw' is a hand held electric saw with a small, changable blade, usually 7cm long, that cuts with a verticle motion. see the link below for what i mean.http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/product/prod...&PRODID=7940255The Porcupineaka Simon Webbwww.desktopflying.co.ukVery slowely putting together a generic twin desktop unit.

[Guest comma]

wow that's a price ! life is cheaper in UK !well, according to the picture, i'm glad to see i have already got a 'jigsaw' !!!for cutting the MIP, ok but for a samll hole "inner" the MIP... boy i'm not sure i am able to stay in the limit and not to cut it all !