I have acquired an illuminated switch panel made by Korry that I plan to mount in the control pedestal of my generic flight deck setup.A few questions for those familiar with Korry switches.Each push-button, which is 13/16" square, easily pulls out. There's a guide post with a spring at the bottom of each which fits into the panel housing to allow for the pushbutton action.The top of each button is a solid piece with black lettering on translucent white. I don't know how to remove the cap to access the bulb. I'd like custom design my own cap labels, but I haven't a clue where to find blanks.I plan to hook the panel up to a Hagstrom Keyboard Encoder Module. Some of the switches control a single function and have three terminals. A few have a split display, such as: ------- ON ------- OFF ------Those switches have five terminals and (assumably) two bulbs.Any ideas about wiring?Thanks in advance,Dennis

The bulb area should just pull out. At least it does on the Korrys I have. Here you go for the wiring. Thanks to Deltaflight for this one.http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/151563.jpg

Thanks.In the case of the switch panel I have, there are 30 pushbutton switches in all. Each switch easily pulls out, but once I have the switch in my hand I can't see how the switch comes apart to get to the bulb.The "single function" switches each have three terminals on the bottom of the panel housing. The switches which are divided into two sections have five terminals.So, I'm assuming that the 3-terminal switches have 1 bulb; the 5 terminal switches have two bulbs. Two of the terminals (where there are three) being pos/nev for 1 lamp, and four of the terminals (where there are five) would be pos/nev times two. I haven't been able to figure a way to get the body of the switch apart to actually see the bulbs. The panel housing is labeled 28V/1 amp.Is anyone familiar with the kind of Korry switch I have? It's probably not out of an aircraft; from the labels on the buttons, the panel appears to be from an Air Traffic Control facility.I'll post a link to a photo of the panel ASAP.

I have taken some photos of the switch panel. Several views are posted here:http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/Flo...SWITCH%20PANEL/Besides front and back views of the panel with all switches in place, I pulled out two of them for closer looks.Note that some of the switch faces are split (shown here in closeup is ON/OFF) assumably allowing each lamp to burn independely.The black portion of each switch extends and retracts, but doesn't come all the way off with finger pressure.. The switches I've pulled out are in the extended position, which is how they must be when seating the switch into the panel to allow for proper insertion.Also, note on the rear of the panel that nine of the switches terminate with a slotted screw. Those switches are immobilizezd and in the original setup functioned only as indicators or annunciators.I don't the age of this panel or what it's from, but I'd love to put it to good use in the center floor pedestal of my flight deck using a keyboard encoder.I'd love to know how to: -- access the lamps (I'm assuming this is incandescent, not LED) -- change out faces of the switches and replace with something custom-lettered -- properly wire the backs of the siwtches. The single labels have three terminals, the double labels have five terminals.Any info/suggestions would be appreciated!

That is a strange arrangement. Looks like its going to be trial and error. For the black cap try prying the ends with a small straight blade screwdriver. There likely is a small catch which you will need to slightly lift the cap over.I think its safe to say looking at the picture that the 3 terminals surrounding the switches are for your lamps. The single would be your negative and the other 2 would be your positive.... 1 for the top legend and 1 for the bottom. I would start testing with 5v as the likelyhood would be that these are higher voltage bulbs. Test in a dark room as at 5v it may be hard to see if they are higher voltage bulbs. the 2 terminals on the back of the switch housing would be for your switch connection. Again it would be trial and error as to which one is the common.Use small aligator clips for easy changeover of terminals when testing.Gary

Thanks for your response, Gary.>That is a strange arrangement. Looks like its going to be>trial and error. That's what I suspected.>For the black cap try prying the ends with a small straight>blade screwdriver. There likely is a small catch which you>will need to slightly lift the cap over.I'll give it a try.>I think its safe to say looking at the picture that the 3>terminals surrounding the switches are for your lamps. The>single would be your negative and the other 2 would be your>positive.... 1 for the top legend and 1 for the bottom. I>would start testing with 5v as the likelyhood would be that>these are higher voltage bulbs. Test in a dark room as at 5v>it may be hard to see if they are higher voltage bulbs. >>the 2 terminals on the back of the switch housing would be for>your switch connection. Again it would be trial and error as>to which one is the common.It's not clear from the photo -- there are 3 terminals on switches with a single legend and 5 terminals on those with two legends. I'll do some testing at 5v to see if I can figure out which is which.I'd love to know that this thing is out of. What really puzzles me are the switches labeled "Vg 900 knots...Vg 400 knots....Vg 130 knots."Not knowing what kind of display this was hooked up to, I haven't a clue as to why you'd call up best glide speeds in those three widely disparate ranges, unless this was from equipment used on the ground. Would this panel have been connected to radar?

with a nose gear up switch I doubt it. I wouldnt be surprised if you found out that it come from something like the space shuttle!Gary

HelloI bought the same item on ebay. Thought it could be useful, but BIG mistake.First: there are some missing parts on this item (at least this is what I think.)- all the lamps (or the lamp holder) inside the button are missing. They will finnally provide the electrical circuit. They are mounted from behind. No need to open the button.- the black cap can NOT be removed. They are glue in and you will most probably desrtroy the button.- the switches do no stay-in once pushed. Reason: on the back, I think some sort of a eddy-current (like a relais) latch can be attachted to these clips. With that one can push the button, it will stay pushed until they flick back when the latch is electrically actuated and releases the rod. Also this is an indication why theres a detent on its end and why the annunciators have a screwed-in cap on the back.Further information is appreciated. Especially the type of airplane it might has come from. The buttons "Vg 900 knots" "North/South" and "East/West" are very strange.If somebody in Europe is interested to get this item, please contact me. Shipping to the US is not worth the money, since the item is quite heavy.

>If somebody in Europe is interested to get this item, please>contact me. Shipping to the US is not worth the money, since>the item is quite heavy.The item is sold. Sorry.