The Scarlet Pipistrel in the Dordogne
For Saturday, December 2, 2023
Michael MacKuen

Today we visit the Dordogne. The river begins in the Massif Central and flows 300 miles to the west before emptying into the Gironde and the sea just north of Bordeaux. The first segment runs through deep gorges with dams forming several long lakes. Below Argentat, the second part widens for farmland, pastures, and vineyards. At the core is Périgord, the historic region full of medieval villages and castles, stunning landscapes, and more caves than any other part of France. The adjacent Vézère valley is home to many prehistoric paintings, perhaps the finest in the world. The Dordogne and Périgord attract vacationers for hiking, camping, water sports, the historic and prehistoric sites, and for the food. We shall taste that experience in a simulated summer jaunt. Low and slow.


Château de Beynac stands high over the river below

Our first segment heads down the steep-walled gorges of the Dordogne. It is recommended that you fly low over the river, below the canyon-tops ... or well above. Watch out for the power cables – and hang onto your hat. We begin at the Ussel Thalamy Aerodrome [LFCU], home to light and ultra-light aviation and a local aeroclub. (In 1942-1943 British Lysanders landed here at night until local authorities dug trenches into the strip.)

We intercept the river (about 10 miles from its source further east) and turn south over the widened Dordogne to see the Château de Val and then the Bort-les-Orgues Dam, our first encounter with the five hydroelectric dams built 1935-1958. Then the Margès Dam, the oldest, and the Aigle Dam, the most powerful. The latter is also known as the “Resistance Dam” whose wartime construction workers (a hotbed of the Resistance) “slow-walked” the project until after the war ended. Next are the Chastang Dam and the Sablier Dam, the smallest. The Chastang and the Sablier manage the final downstream flow (“Sablier” means hourglass). While designed as power stations, the dams have been critical to managing the dangerous floods of the Dordogne. Caution: each dam indicates special watchfulness for overhead power lines.

At Argentat we turn west for Meyssac Lagleygeolle [LFZI, LF1952], a recreational airfield for light aircraft. You might pay close attention here. After departure, we head south to rejoin the Dordogne Valley for a few miles and then land at Souillac Peyrillac [LFYX, LF2443], a small uphill strip. We are now in the Périgord, the traditional name for this broader region.

We next encounter our first chateaux in the lower Dordogne. The Château de Rouffillac (12^th century) was designed as a manor house perched on a high cliff with magnificent views. During the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453), it became a strategic observational asset because the Dordogne was a contested border between the English and French. Next is the Château de Fénelon, a fortress, built on rocky terraces, which was later augmented with more elegant Renaissance features. A few miles along is the Château de Montfort which clings to a promontory overlooking the bend in the river below. Its grandiose setting "aroused the envy of those who wished to rule Périgord" so that its history is a long series of battles and sieges. It was taken, destroyed, and rebuilt four times. (Once each for the Hundred Years’ War and the bloody French Wars of Religion between Catholics and Protestants, 1562-1598.) Its current restoration gives the castle a “whimsical look of a stage setting for light opera.” 

We climb up to Sarlat Domme [LFDS], a high plateau general aviation field with hangars, an aeroclub, and a bar-restaurant. After a stop, we descend over the fortified medieval town Domme which stands on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river below. Then a quick drop onto the valley floor to see La Roque Gageac, one of the most famous of the “beautiful villages” of France. The town is strung along the river with a steep cliffside behind. A short distance further, we look up to the imposing 12^th century fortress Château de Castelnaud which, during the Hundred Years’ War, was a strong point for the English which stood facing its French rival a mile to the north. The Château de Beynac is one of the best-preserved and famous castles in the region. The 12^th century barons of Beynac built the fortress high on the cliffside to control the Dordogne valley. The steep-walled cliff protected one side and double walls, double moats, a natural ravine, and double barbicans formed the strong defense on the plateau side of the castle.

Just 2 miles downriver is the lovely Château des Milandes. The lords of Caumont built this manor house as an alternative to living in the uncomfortable medieval castle at Castlenaud. It is now more famous for Josephine Baker, the American-born French entertainer who purchased and lived in the chateau 1940-1968. (She came to France as a young dancer in the 1920s, became a renowned vocalist, worked as an agent with the Resistance, and is now a cultural icon of France.) The manor and the gardens are a tourist favorite.

We continue along the Dordogne to Limeuil where we divert northward into the Vézère river valley. We pass over Le Bugue (the historic town in which Martin Walker’s “Bruno” mysteries are set) and then continue over the Château de Campagne. This chateau includes a fine garden and hosts buildings for the International Prehistory Center. The Vézère region contains something like 147 prehistoric sites with the small village of Les Eyzies the location of the modern National Museum of Prehistory. A half-mile north is the site where in 1868 Louis Lartet discovered the first Cro-Magnon skull and changed the way we think of human history.

We temporarily leave the Vézère and head into the hilly country to the east. Soon we pass over Abri Cap Blanc, an excavation site that in 1906 revealed prehistoric animal sculptures as well as a complete 12,000 year old skeleton. And just a mile along we see the ruins of the Château de Commarque which served as the residence for the powerful Beynac family. Then, the beautiful Château de Puymartin which was sacked in the Hundred Years’ War and later became the home of a victorious leader during the Wars of Religion. And...

Sometime in the 1500s, it is said, Jean de Saint-Clar returned to Puymartin after going away to war and found his wife, Thérèse, in the arms of another man. Jean killed the lover and locked his wife in a tiny, barren chamber in the castle; the door was sealed, and food and other necessities were delivered to the unfaithful wife through a small trap door. When she finally died after 15 years in this prison, Jean sealed her body up behind the walls. For centuries, it has been said that her ghost – “La Dame Blanche” – walks these halls and accosts the residents of the castle.
(Here)

We arrive at Sarlat, the third largest town in the region. This retains the feel of a medieval city with much of its center carefully restored. It is a real attraction for tourists – for the historic setting but also for the quality of the food in the markets and restaurants. The Périgord prides itself on the quality of its own traditional French cuisine. In particular, the region is know for its truffles and foie gras.

We turn back toward the Vézère river and land on a grass strip Montignac [LFZA] that stands high above the valley.

A few miles on we see the hilltop site of Lascaux Cave where, in 1940, four boys found a spectacular array of prehistoric paintings on the walls and ceilings of the caves. Dating from 17,000 years ago, these colorful artistic works depict animals – bulls, horses, stags and others – and provide a glimpse of early human imagination. [There is really nothing modeled in MSFS. That said, this world famous artistic site is worth noting and getting a sense of its location.] We go to Montignac Condat [LFJZ, LF2423]. The public hard runway appears to be legally closed but in good condition and the strip is in current use by ultralights. We shall land here.

We next depart over the hills to the west. We pass the handsome Château de Rastignac. This is sometimes called the “French White House” because its layout, admired by Thomas Jefferson, may have inspired the American design. And further along we take a look at the Château des Bories, an attractive small white fortress with three fortified towers and a dry moat. We land at Périgueux-Bassillac [LFBX]. The airport hosts an aeroclub with flight instruction, a parachute club, and an An-2 association. We might pull over to the FBO and take a break. If we are lucky, we can see some aerial displays.

We fly west over Périgueux, the region’s largest city and the traditional capital of Périgord. In the town’s medieval center stands the Château de Barriere, a feudal stronghold built to defend the city and its ruling family. It was burned by the Huguenots during the Wars of Religion and only the keep remains in good shape. We swing south over the countryside to fly over the village Sainte Alvère and one of the best truffle markets in France. (For more on Périgord and truffles, see here and here.) We land at Lalinde Pressignac-Vicq [LFWX, LF2432], a fair-sized uphill grass airfield.

Then back over the Dordogne valley and the Château de Bannes, the subject of battles and intrigue during the Hundred Years’ War. Afterwards it was rebuilt as Renaissance style residence with towers and a fortified wall. And on to the Château de Lanquais, another fortified castle that was transformed into a beautiful Renaissance home – copying many features from the Louvre.

Next is the Château de Tiregand. This is a wine growing vineyard owned by the Saint-Exupéry family. (They are distantly related to the famous Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, author of the Petit Prince and - more important to us - several classics in early aviation.) The winery produces whites and a notable red. Since 2022 the chateau serves as playhouse “universe of the fictional Arsène Lupin, the gentleman burglar.”

Bergerac is the region’s second largest city and the center to its long-respected wine country. We cross the Dordogne at the Old Bridge and climb south to take a glance at the Chateau de Monbazillac. This 16^th century chateau was a Protestant stronghold during the Wars of Religion. And it has remained an iconic symbol of Protestantism and the wine trade.

We land at our final destination Bergerac [LFBE]. This is a small commercial international airport with seasonal scheduled flights, mainly to the UK. After we finish, we can gather outside the slightly rusty hangar, west of the terminal and east of the fire house. The burly proprietor of “The Diner,” inside the hangar, has invited us for refreshments.

Documentation
The flightplan can be found here.

Aircraft
This is a low-and-slow fun flight where we enjoy the beautiful scenery and historic castles. We need to cover about 215nm and so require something that will “fast cruise” at about 125 kts. And we land at a few hillside grass strips. A light sport aircraft makes the most sense. Some of our favorites might include the Cubcrafters XCub and NXCub (especially the Got Friends version), the Pipistrel Virus, the JMB VL-3, the Vans RV-14/14A and maybe the Got Friends Grravel. Other light GA aircraft will be just fine. I’ll take the Asobo Pipistrel Virus in the “Scarlet” livery here. You should fly whatever you like.

Additional Scenery
These are not necessary for the flight. They do add some color and some are just excellent quality freeware scenery. (You probably do want the chateaux.) Thanks to these authors.

55 Castles in French Dordogne. laudey1
Chateau Rastignac. Michelvp
Chateau Monbazillac. mv46
Ussel Thalamy [LFCU]. ailgorbot
Lagleygeolle Meyssac [LFZI]. LordFrites
Sarlat Domme [LFDS]. davion45
Bassillac-Perigueux [LFBX]. Laserjet34
Bergerac Roumaniere Dordogne [LFBE]. Laserjet34

Temporarily, you can download a scenery package here. 1.07 GB.

A note for custom seasonal foliage packages. You might prefer Summer trees.

Time and Weather
We want a SUMMER afternoon for our visit to the Dordogne. For takeoff on Saturday, set the simulator for Summer at 2:00 pm local for August 5, 2023.
We normally prefer real weather. For this week we want summer vacation weather so you might use the standard High Clouds or Few Clouds.

Multiplayer Particulars
Date and time: Saturday, December 2, 2023. 1900 UTC
AVSIM Discord Server: https://discord.gg/K5Vy6UxWNm  - AVSIM GROUP EVENTS-SAT. COM1
Microsoft Flight Simulator Multiplayer: United States East server.

If you want to help others enjoy the multiplayer experience, don't forget to enter your aircraft details on the multiplayer spreadsheet (linked here). Please be kind enough to enter the title exactly as it stands in the title=”xxx” line of the aircraft.cfg file. Your courtesy will save others a lot of time and effort. Thanks!
 

Following Norm’s suggestion, here is a Little NavMap version of the flightplan with the Full Names of the “Points of Interest” spelled out in the waypoint names. (Perhaps useful for those who keep Little NavMap up on a second screen as a moving map display.)