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USA 3000

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  1. I think my eight year old Force Feedback 2 has finally died... well sort of. For the last 6 months I have had to angle the USB cable coming out of the base just so for it to remain recognized. I took it apart to see if I could easily replace the USB cable, but the internal connector is weird and now since I forget what exactly it is, I can't explain it well. Anyway, I've searched around for a new force feedback stick but can't find any besides the FFB2. Is there anything new that compares to FFB2? If not, I'll have to look into replacing the USB cable.
  2. Thanks for the help, Rich and John! Personally, I find it much easier to conceptualize paints when there are not such interuptions on the template. If you use Photoshop, you can create an Action to, for instance, move the forward (Fuselage 1) "crop area" layers to abut the details of the middle section (Fuselage 2) to create a normal looking template. You have to run the Action for each individual layer but it still only takes a few minutes to complete. If anyone is interested in this, I can provide more indepth details. However, I have not yet perfected the process myself.
  3. I've been painting aircraft for a little less than a decade but I'm new to the NGX. I understand the crop zones and find them helpful on the -900 but I'm confused about the process when dealing with other variants, such as the -600,-700,-800. I have posted an image which demonstrates a blue shape rising up an -800 fuselage. The fuselage on top demonstrates how I want the line to appear disregarding the unused blank section. The fuselage on the bottom indicates how I believe it would need to be painted to ensure allignment in FS. Is there an easier way than interupting the line to ensure proper allignment between fuselage crop sections? I'm not accustomed to interrupted fuselage sections like this. Any help would be appreciated.

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