Ok I am wrestling with this issue now for a long time and here's my idea.First we take a part of wood. We cut out all shapes of the panels & sand them so that the sides look like real panels.Next step is to cut out all places where there is text or switches & buttons. Then we cut out plexi shapes that fit those gaps perfectly.We print the text on paper using a color that matches as perfect as possible the color of the spray paint we will use for the panel.Then we drill or cut the holes for the switches/buttons into the plexy. And finally glue the printed paper on top of the plexi.Now we fit the plexi parts into the wood panels. Maybe using hot-melt-glue from the back.Once this is finished we now put stickers of any color over the text. Try to make those as small as possible just so they cover the white text or the lines.After that you just spray the panel in the grey or brown color you want.Final step is to remove the stickers & spray again with "Dull Coat" clear spray paint.Hopefully now you will not see the difference between the painted wood & the printed paper so much.The result should be such that you got nice 3D looking panels made easy using wood. On the other hand you got backlightable panels.Might work ? Give your thoughts !

Should work, but quite a hassle if you could just take plexi and put 2 sheets behind it, and then apply a dull coat...

Thing is that I don't know if I can work plexi as smooth as wood.http://users.skynet.be/plipke/panel_tut.jpg

WOW... that picture makes it look even more complicated!Really, what are you having a hard time on?

Making plexi panels that look like real ?Most people using plexi end up with panels that just look like a box. Real panels have nicely rounded edges and drilled holes for the "dzus screws".With wood making this shape is very easy. However wood is not backlightable.So then there is plexi with a printed paper. That is backlightable but is hard to process into nice panel shapes becuase it breaks etc etc & needs a table-saw to be cut into shape. Wood can be cut even with a sharp knife.Thing is I want panels that look as nicely 3D as the ones from DakenSky. That's the result I want when you look at them from 40cm or more distance. But I can't make them like they do cuz I don't have no CNC.

I suggest using lexaan (polycarbonate), doesn't brake or splinter (same material as DakenSkys uses).I work often with lexaan, and you can created rounded edges easely: sand them :)You'll have to paint the sides tough, since they'll emit light.

Super .. where do I find lexaan in belgium ? And what will it cost me ?What I would be looking for are plates of 2mm so that I can layer them.How easy is it to cut a squared hole into a 2mm lexaan panel with a knife or any other tool that is not CNC ?I got a dremel now so that might be handy for that ?The idea is now to put a black/white paper between the top 2 layers of lexaan and then put a grey/white paper on top. Plastic transparent foil again on top, then cover the text/lines for painting, then removing the covers. Think this will give best result for backlighting.Weird thing is .. I haven't seen anyone make his own backlit panels yet using lexaan, have I ?Only ones I've seen are the ones from Rob v/d Wiele from NL but he doesn't have backlight. He hasn't even got text at all.

Well indeadI saw Rob's panels too, and I was wondering why he used lexaan...Anyways, Gamma has it sometimes, but the specialist plastic stores have it way cheaper. Try looking up such a store in the golden guide ( ;) )You could cut trough 2mm using an exacto knife, by going trough it a couple of times, or use your dremel (wich is a great tool btw) at the lowest speed.Lexaan is the material used in vending machines, you know, the plastic stuff with the logo. You can run to it at full speed, smash yourself at it, but it won't break (I like to do this, just watch everyones face when they see it doesn't break).The idea is now to put a black/white paper between the top 2 layers of lexaan and then put a grey/white paper on top. Plastic transparent foil again on top, then cover the text/lines for painting, then removing the covers. Think this will give best result for backlighting.Hmm. wouldn't it be easier to just put a black white paper + a color printed paper between? Then apply a dull coating.

And then paint only the eges ?I don't know .. maybe yes, maybe no .. cuz then if you paint the eges you will see that the paper sits deeper than the paint.Either way all this is to be tried out sometime.Or else I could let DS make my panels. I have been working on (as) exact (as possible) 3D Studio Max files of the F50 panels. Not sure though if DS would find time to do this for me. And not sure at all about if it would be affordable to me.

Actually, when it comes to lexan, we have a type of lexan, at work, that is used as a light diffuser. This lexan is white, but light transmits quite well through it. I am planning on ordering a piece of this material to use for my MCP and radio panels. For the top layer and all the lettering, I will laying it out in AutoCad, then taking it to a nearby printshop that also does vinyl cutting and have a decal made up using a grey vinyl. All the switch holes and lettering will be cut out prior to applying it to the diffuser lexan.Once it is done, in normal light, the lettering will show as white due to the color of the lexan, but in low light conditions, it will show the color of the backlighting source. You could put a few nice bright blue LEDs behind the lettering or any color you want. I made a quick inquiry last week and I believe a 1 metre by 1 metre square of this material was around $75cdn.I think most printing shops that do vinyl cutting could do the decals for you. It's just that you have to design the pattern first.

interesting :)pls keep us updated on your progress and some pictures will be neat.

Wilco!!:-wave

Don't forget to cover the edges, as they will difuse the light too!