Hi guys,i'm thinking of starting out in building my simulator but i have not decided on which boeing to build yet. The 737 seems common and parts seems readily avaliable but the 747 and 767 seems tempting too. but anyway. I'm planning to start out building the MCP first to try and see if i would make it building a simulator. I have a friend who studies aerospace electronics so i have him helping me with the soldering and stuff. However, i'm in a dilema in with parts to buy. I'm looking at either Phidgets or Opencockpits. I've been reading quite extensively but i still do not understand quite abit.hope you guys can help.Firstly, if i go Phidgets,here are the parts i think i need to get.a few 0/16/16 cardstext LED (do i really need it?)it seems pricey for such few i/o. I'm kinda on a budget but the software seems really easy to program and i'm kinda a programming nut.Do i need project magenta to link fs and phidgets?Secondly, if i go Opencockpits.mastercard x1display card x1its much cheaper i think. if i don't use usb. i have no idea how to wire the new display card. do i need to split the wires? the new card only has 7pins for all the displays and a individual control pin for each display. DO i need the pcb for the LED displays? I'm not too sure about the software.is it easy?sorry for the complicated post but i find it hard to understand the opencockpit website as not the whole site is translated. I keep jumping to foreign language one.

Hi,if you don't know, or you don't want to learn how to solder wires and how to work with electronics, mechanical constructions, or you don't have free time, then better go and by something Plug & Play like cpflight's MCP+EFIS+Radios etc.Otherwise have in mind that you have to work a lot and maybe it will be cheaper or not than a ready one, but of course it will be a very interesting hobby !!!I use Fsbus, which has a very very friendly interface software and you can make all the pcbs by yourself, or search the net to order them (like cocpitsonic's site) Look for the New Generation PCBs. The only problem with Fsbus is the poor support and documentation, as there is only one person behind the scenes (Dirk).Other solution is the Opencockpit's IO system, you can buy them ready and tested, in my opinion 100% you have to buy USB card also, they have a more complicated software than Fsbus, but with more more functionallity and better support, as there are many people there. The only problem is that they have many different programs, exe, pdf, docs, manuals etc and you have to make a good research to start understand how it works and what you need. Of course they have release some helpful powerpoint files with how to information, but you need to search a lot. Some problems also with the language, as not all the information/forums/people are in English language.Opencockpits also provide some cards where you can connect the wires from your switches without solder them. Also as i know they are more more cheaper than Phidgets, because with the same money they support more inputs and outputs. Third solution is from Flightdecksolutions, whre you can buy also h/w systems to control the MCP+EFis and in a 2nd phase to expand this.Good luckEddie ArmaosAthens-Greece

thanks for your advice. i think i would stay away from FSBus as i have no idea how to make PCBs. I think the reasons about poor support and documentation is also very valid for me.If i buy IO cards, i would buy the kit form and get my friend to help me with populating the board. It not too difficult right? I can't find much about the software. But the only screenshot i saw makes it seem similar to the Phidgets software. The language issue is a huge problem with Opencockpits. If i go IOcards then i would have to depend on other forums for help. Phidgets, i would think that they are out of my budget. Though the software seems easy and wiring would be dead neat.Pricey.I have a problem with FlightDeckSolutions. Ican't access the site. As i asked on another forum earlier on. I think it would be a problem with my ISP and i have yet to sort it out. Soon i hope.I just stumbled upon FlightDeck Technology's Sim-Boards. They seem like my perfect solution of simplicity. However, price is a problem. The currency exchange is really not helping me. I would have to shell out S$240 for a card. Not including shipping. Now if only they were made in cheaper places. Sigh. Are there any other options? If not i would have to settle for IOcards and learn a whole new language. Any language teachers here?haha.

The prixe is a big problem for many of us.The price in example of 600 dollars for a FMC does not have the same value in US, UK, Germany, Greece, Italy etc.And of course the shipping and taxes are also a big amount.Did you saw the cpflight's solutions?Eddie ArmaosAthens-Greece

yes. I've have seen CPFlight's solution. It looks great but it is way way out of my budget. I have to resort to building my own. It will cost much lesser.

I have chosen to go with IOCards and am very happy with the results. My advice , if you chose them, would be to buy all your cards ready made, the price difference is only a few euros more for them to arrive ready to use. Most of their manuals and tutorials are available in English, which you obviously do not have a problem with, as well as their native Spanish and I have never had a problem posting to their forum in English, they answer me.Have a look at the tutorials on their site, especially this one for an MCP and see what you think. http://www.opencockpits.com/modules.php?na...=showpage&pid=8Regards, Simonwww.desktopflying.co.ukVery slowely putting together a generic twin desktop unit.

thanks for the advice Simon,after looking at my budget. I don't really have much of a choice but to go for IOCards. I'll have to buy the mastercard in a kit form due to my budget. But i have difficulty understanding the new display card. The documentation around keeps refering to the older card. How am i to wire the display card to my displays? Do i need to get the mounting PCBs for my displays? Do i need to split up the wire? How about my knobs. I keep reading that i should get 1X12 rotary switches. Not to sure about how to wire them. But i chanced upon a site that says a 3X4 is actually easier and better to use. How about a rotary encoder? Is it better? Can i use it with the master card or do i need another?

I am not sure about the display II card, I have not got that far yet and am also working to a very tight budget so I know how you feel.I have used the 1x12 rotary switches because that is all I could get at my local store. I have wired them up in the way suggested by OpenCockpits on their website and they seem to work. Basically as follows:- ctr pin - ground Pin 1,4,7,10 - wire A Pin 2,5,8,11 - wire B Pin 3,6,9,12 - wire C You then wire them up, ABC to three consecutive inputs on the mastercard and connect the ground the the common GND also. If the number seem to go funny, up instead of down, or seem random, try swapping pins A & C connections to the Mastercard.As for rotary encoders, because of my budget I have not used them. I would like to but can not find a supply in the UK, unless I want to buy 1000 at a time. They must be TRUE GREY SCALE. If anyone reading this knows of a supply at reasonable cost PLEASE let me know!Simonaka Porcupinewww.desktopflying.co.ukVery slowely putting together a generic twin desktop unit.

so i have to split up a wire to connect to 4 pins at a time? i think i'll probably try out a master card first. When i feel confident and sure that i need a full mcp then i'll get the display card. Thanks for your patience with me. You've been great.Hector

Hi Hector,No problem, that is why we are all here, to help each other.The way I did it was to cut small lengths of wire and solder them to each contact. I then twisted the other ends of 1,4,7,10 together and hold them together with a small bit of heat shrink tube. Do the same with 2,5,8,11 and 3,6,9,12. You then only have three wires plus the GND to worry about.Simonaka Porcupinewww.desktopflying.co.ukVery slowely putting together a generic twin desktop unit, but struggling at the moment

You can use a similar type of "break-before-make" switch to the 12 position switch, and not need to put the wire links in place. If you use a 4 pole, 3 position switch (they look the same, black body with white rear section and 12 pins around the outside and 4 pins in the centre) You open the switch up, remove the detent to get it to fully rotate, put it back together (careful with the spring), and you only need the common, plus pins 1,2,3. Inside the switch you will see 4 small metal plates that rotate across the three pins you are using.(I remove a little of the spring as well to make it rotate as smoothy as an encoder.)Ken.