I thought I had this problem licked but the gremlins have returned.After a 2 hour+ flight my CHPro pedals stop responding or respond erratically, a well known problem I believe.I have searched the forum for posts, in fact found one I contributed to a few months back, and carried out the suggestions but am still plagued by the problem.OS is Win XP ProUSB2Mo/bo chipset is an Nvidia one, CPU is AMD 2500 BartonI have installed the latest CH manager in the hope new drivers would cure the problem.None of the USB root hubs have power saving ticked.When the problem occurs the output, viewed in FSUIPC or windows calibration, is sluggish. Often it will move to one extreme or the other and then return to centre position very slowly, sometimes it move quickly to one extreme but not the other.If I move the pedals back and forth 6 or 7 times the response is normal and they will continue to work correctly for a time.I am sure it is not a fault with the pot on the pedals because they do work normally at the beginning and after 'waggling' them.I have no problem with the toe brakes nor with my Saitek X36 USB joystick.The pedals are plugged into a USB port on the motherboard and not into an external USB hub.Any help appreciated.

Hi Vulcan, Have you tried plugging the pedals into a different port on the MB? When I first got my USB yoke and pedals, I found one USB port that gave me problems just like you describe. Because I had more ports than USB devices, I was able to use another port and solve the problem. R-

Thanks for the suggestion Ron.There is no reason to expect them to work in another port because they have been working in the existing port for months. However I did try them in 5 other ports and had exactly the same sluggish response.I have reverted to the rudder control on my Saitek X36 combo but retained the pedals for toe brakes - expensive toe brakes :-(

Vulcan, contact Ch Products themselves. In my personal experience they have excellent customer support. I see you are a bit too far to visit them in person. Twice I did and they repaired or replave my pedals and Yoke for free!Try emailing them. Just a suggestion...

Thanks Ponyboy, just sent the web form off.Purely by chance I came across an item I had saved from May 1993 where someone said they had found a faulty capacitor on the PCB board which caused intermittent operation.I have no idea where I saved this from, probably a forum post here at AVSIM.If CH cannot come up with a solution I will have a look at the PCB and see if can see a problem with the capacitor and check out the resposne of the rudder potentiometer.Rgds

Well my pedals just went out! if I rest my foot on the right one, it works fine, but the second I take off some pressure it gets all weird and veers to the left... somethings messed up. Looks like I'm going to be contacing them very soon as well.

I had a problem early on with my pedals Big Al which was a mechanical problem.Do the pedals feel to move smoothly both left and right?In the calibration window does the indicator move up and down?If the answer to both questions is no then you might have the problem I had, that the link between the rudder bar and the potentiometer has become disconnected.IIRC the symptoms I had were that the pedals didn't feel right, there was a kind of 'notch' at one point of the travel. The calibration worked reasonably well in one direction but in the other it spiked at a certain point.The link has pegs on it which locate in holes on the rudder bar and potentiometer arm and the pegs are only just long enough to sit in the holes. A bit of vibration can knock one peg out of its hole.What happens then is that rudder bar can contact the link and push it so the potentiometer will work one way but not the other because the link bar is left in that position and does not return. However if you move the pedals fully to the opposite position sometimes the rudder bar can just flick the link and thus move the potentiometer.It is relatively easy to fix by putting the pegs back in the locating holes, the PIA is making sure you don't trap the toe brake and rudder wires in the mechanism and keeping everything in place as you fasten the two parts of the base back together.Ponyboy,I have had an email from CH with some suggestions and questions, I have answered the questions and await a response from CH.If/when I get the problem fixed I will repost.BTW I found an old TXT file I must have copied from a forum posting somewhere back in 2003 where someone said they had found a faulty capacitor on the PCB which was causing similar problems to those I have.

Had a reply back from CH and they are almost certain that the rudder pot is on its way out.I can buy a replacement from their web site but with shipping costs to the UK it will become quite expensive so I will try to source one here in the UK first.

Took my pedals apart over the weekend and sprayed the rudder pot with contact cleaner and moved the wiper arm over full range 6 or 7 times then allowed cleaner to evaporate.With the pedals still apart plugged them back into the USB port and checked in the calibration window that they now worked correctly.Finally put the unit back together again, a real PITA operation.Instead of everything being fixed in the base so you can align everything the rudder pot locates in the upper 'cover' of the pedals so you have to try to align the operating arm so it will sit on the rudder bar peg when the two halves of the cover come together. You also need to make sure the thin wires from the toe brake pots don't get snagged or caught in the pedal runners.Hope this above helps others with similar problems.I am sure at a later time I will have to replace the pot but for now it is working OK.