British Columbia’s Coastal Wilderness

[MM 428]

British Columbia’s Coastal Wilderness
The Islands of Johnstone Strait and Discovery Passage
For Wednesday, April 3, 2024

Today we shall take a tour of the remote islands along Johnstone Strait and Discovery Passage – the waters dividing northern Vancouver Island from mainland British Columbia. These channels are frequently transited by cruise ships, cargo ships, fishing boats, and the ships of the BC Ferries system. In particular, the BC Ministry of Health has asked us to provide a familiarization tour of the islands’ settlements for newcomers as well as veterans of the Island Health clinics in Port Hardy, Port McNeil, and Campbell River. These clinics are charged with providing health care for residents who are hard to reach and who may face difficulties in reaching the clinics themselves. It is helpful for the professionals to understand the remote environments of their patients and to experience amphibian air travel which is so important in the region. We begin in the north at Port Hardy and proceed across the Johnstone Strait to visit a number of settlements north of the Strait and then north and east of Discovery Passage and Desolation Sound. Our final destination is Campbell River.


A Classic at Mount Collingwood Port

We start in at Port Hardy Airport [CYZT] , which serves a town of 4,000 whose traditional economy was natural-resource-based (fishing, logging, and mining). Nowadays, there is an increasing reliance on summer tourism, including hotels, restaurants, and the BC Ferries terminal. We fly down to the Port McNeil Seaplane Base [CAM8]. This is a logging town and the sand and gravel quarry is the largest in the northern hemisphere. Then we cross over the entrance to Johnstone Strait to the north side, circle to look at a playful pod of Orcas, and then land at Gilford Island-Health Bay [CAD7] near the Kwakwaka’wakw village of Gwayasdums. For each of our landings on this introductory flight, we shall taxi over to the community’s docks and give our passengers a sense of settlement’s size and location. At another time, some staff members may return to visit with and provide care for the local residents.

After a little time we depart for the Port Harvey [PHBC] area, first flying by the lighthouse and then landing and taking a look at the lumber facilities and fishing docks scattered around the inlet. Then a quick low pass over Hadley Bay [10BC] and a landing at Burial Cove [09BC] near Round Island. We can mosey around the small inlet to see the dock infrastructure and small fishing fleet based here. After takeoff and a steep climb, we pass over the Snow Mountain Lookout Tower and then land in the elevated lake on the summit of Snow Mountain [08BC]. A quick jaunt northward and a descent to the coast takes us to the sandy beach of Port Squire [07BC] where we can see the construction site for a future forestry port operation. (A small bush airstrip has been carved out of the forest in the hills above.)

We head northeast to the Knight Inlet Lodge [CKN2], a popular wildlife destination in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest. While also offering whale-watching, the lodge is best-known for the multi-day excursions for viewing Grizzly Bears in their natural habitat. Then back to the south over Fulmore River [05BC] before stopping at Mount Collingwood Port [04BC]. The sizeable dock facilities host an historic cruise ship as well as a café and general store that serve the wider area. Then a low flight to look at the new construction at Robbers Nob [03BC]. We stop to take a break at Port Neville [PNBC]. Pilots may want use their drone camera to take a closer look at the little settlement. Port Neville’s post office has been fictionally re-opened after actually being closed in 2013. Happily, the location has maintained a steady flow of tourists. Be wary of the fast currents near the government dock.

Soon after departure we stay low to enjoy a good view of McLeod Bay [01BC] whose lovely sheltered inlet provides protection against the turbulent waters of Johnstone Strait. (This is worth a landing and a close examination if we have time. If not, then a low flyover.) Then a quick look at Yorke Island past which Inland Passage shipping traffic must flow. In WWII Canada’s War Department set up a battery of 6” guns (as well as huge searchlights and antiaircraft defenses) to protect the back entrance to Vancouver from Japanese incursions. The isolated location and lack of action led to discipline issues, nicknamed “going Yorkie”. The site has been protected, but not restored, and visitors might well worry about the presence of unexploded ordnance.

We continue over Hardwick Island and West Thurlow Island to land at the Blind Channel Resort [CAG6] which offers moorage, cabins, and the Cedar Post Restaurant and Gallery. Two miles to the northeast, on the Cordero Channel behind Lorte Island, is Camp Cordero [CAK6X]. Founded by a German couple 40 years ago, this is a classic fishing lodge whose fare features a touch of the old country with bratwurst, schnitzel and a crisp cold Riesling. And further on to a low-pass over Dent Island Lodge [CAT6], another high-end fishing lodge which touts its remote location, hot tub, and cuisine. We land at Big Bay Seaplane Base [CAF6] on Stuart Island. This is a private island which is home to exclusive fishing lodges and large private estates. (Visitors arrive by floatplane or helicopter.) Among the property owners is a Montana businessman who built a 9-hole golf course out of the granite on his estate. The island is known for Nanook Lodge which hosts photographers for the summertime “Eagle Show.” The waters near Stuart Island, produce strong currents, whirlpools and upwellings. From May through July, the strong upwellings push juvenile hake fish to the surface where they are easy prey for the 300 or so Bald Eagles who gather in the nearby trees. The aerial display can be a dramatic sight. (For more see here.) Next is Surge Narrows [CAG9] which hosts a multi-island post office and a regional community store. (The islands’ seaplane-serviced post offices allow local residents to receive many different sorts of goods including department store commerce and groceries. Surge Narrows recently accepted a mail-order port-a-potty.)

We turn east to the Desolation Sound area. At its heart lies Refuge Cove [CAY3]. This long-time favorite of boaters hosts a moorage, a general store, and a restaurant. In Summer, this place is hopping. Then we cross Cortes Island with a flyover for Squirrel Cove (a busy summer season dock and trading post) on the way to Mansons Landing [CAV7], the site of an early steamboat landing and the Cortes Island Post Office as well as a popular provincial park. Our final destination is Campbell River Water Aerodrome [CAE3] which hosts an extensive floatplane facility. This is a small city (35,000) on the south end of Discovery Passage. The town’s historic roots lay in the popularity of sports fishing during the early 20^th century. Local lodges attracted Hollywood patrons, including Bob Hope and Bing Crosby. And industrial logging took off in the 1920s. By mid century, mining (lead, zinc, copper and coal) had increased. In recent years the city has maintained the baseline industries and has also become the main commercial and service center of northern Vancouver Island. (You might enjoy this brief film of Campbell River’s Historic Mail Flight visiting some of our stops.)

Documentation
The flightplan can be found here.
A note on the flightplan map depiction of the seaplane bases. Often the “official” MSFS-designated location is inaccurate. The flightplan incudes that official spot (with the name and ICAO). But it also includes a neighboring waypoint that marks a water-based location near the appropriate docks/piers/beaches. (A look at the map will explain all.) You want to land near the extra waypoint rather than the official spot.

Aircraft
This is a perfect place for the DHC-2 Beaver, a true Canadian legend. Other favorites in the area might include the Grumman G21 Goose, the Cessna 172 Skyhawk and Aviat Husky. We shall want an amphibian for our purposes. I shall take the Blackbird Beaver in the Seair C-FZZJ livery (by our own Bill Kunzler). You should, of course, fly what you like.

Additional Scenery
This excursion requires some special scenery addons to create the environment’s seaplane bases. Many are in the simulator. Others, especially around Port Neville,  are real locations with fictional embellishments. (Without the addons, you can fly to the designated locations but find nothing to see.)

Port Hardy [CYZT]. MazerMart
Port Harvey Package. maty743
Port Neville and Beyond Package. maty743
Knight Inlet Lodge [CKN2]. Fury
Refuge Cove and Discovery Islands Package. 30West
Campbell River Seaplane Base [CAE3]. 30West
Temporarily, you can obtain the airport package here (277MB).

As usual, these addons require some libraries many of which pilots will have acquired over time. Three libraries attuned to seaplanes (and thus not in our usual collection) are below. You might check to see if you need to download these. (You additionally want to be sure that Mamu’s marinas are activated.)
Seaplane Asset Library. 30West
Static Boats 3D Model Library. superspud
Vessels The Channel Islands. Seafront Simulations. (Freeware at Orbx)

Time and Weather
For takeoff on Wednesday, set the simulator at 12:00 noon local for April 3, 2024.
We typically prefer real weather and will follow form if the weather is good. If not, I recommend the ”High Clouds” preset.

Multiplayer Particulars
Date and time: Wednesday, April 3, 2024. 1800 UTC
RTWR Multiplayer Discord Channel
Microsoft Flight Simulator Multiplayer: United States East server.

If you want to help others enjoy the multiplayer experience, don't forget to enter your aircraft details on the multiplayer spreadsheet (linked here). Please be kind enough to enter the title exactly as it stands in the title=”xxx” line of the aircraft.cfg file. Your courtesy will save others a lot of time and effort. Thanks!

[MM 428]

Note to those with too much time on their hands. For more on the Eagle Show (along with a little local context) see EPIC Bald Eagle feeding frenzy in British Columbia, Canada.

[nbrich1 117]

WOW Great frenzy Mike! Fantastic video!