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Guest laurentC

ROTW PA-28 v230.... Does it pull to the right?

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I've noticed what I suspect is engine torque pulling this great PA-28 to the right constantly. I'm wondering if I've not set something correctly, b/c it seems like there is too much right tendancy, even when the engine is not at full power. I am learning to (really) fly in a PA-28, and I would love to increase the realism a bit more since I expect engine torque on takeoff, but not in cruise.-DK----David KohlFly! II v2.5.240Dell 8200 P4/1.8G, 1024MB RAM, Nvidia GF4 Ti4600 v52.16, WinXP Home Edition SP1.CH Pro Pedals and Yoke USB.

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Same here. Perhaps ROTW can give an answer.chris_CA

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Hi there,You may want to check for settings in the propeller and/or the engine files where there are two tags for the torque effect plus two for the P and Q factor as far as I remember.Tweaking those figures you may have a more acceptable effect that fits your intent.Cheers,If you want more details let me know because I haven't got my files right now ...

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Hi David,if you manage to make the PA-28 more realistic (see Laurent's suggestions) it would be great to share your improvements with us, you are somehow a reference for knowing the real thing.Thank you very much in advanceGeorg (EDDW)

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Yes - Would love more details. If you explain the concept and which files, I can work on a tweak (it may take me a while, as I'm in front of my PC much less than I used to due to difficult work schedule and real-life flying). If you want to give it a shot, here's the essence. When the engine is running at full throttle, there should be a right tendancey, which requires left rudder to compensate. This will occur on takeoff and during climb-out. Once the RPM's dip into the green, that tendency should reduce, and by 2400-2500 RPM's, the plane should more or less fly level without rudder input.In really slow flight, the controls should get mushy, meaning that responsiveness to controls is weak. One will need lots of rudder or aileron to keep the plane level. That's probably more difficult to model b/c the interaction with wind is much more pronouced at slow speeds. From a Fly!2 perspective, I'd work on the right tendancy during high power settings - get just a bit of left-rudder need during takeoff and climb-out, and then settle it back to level wings thereafter. If you can model that, you'll have a pretty accurate PA-28.-DKPS: On another topic, how many flap settings are there in the v230 model? In real life on my plane, there are three settings (clean plus three additional settings to approx 42-degrees, if my memory serves me on the number). I think I noticed only two notches of flaps on latest PA-28. I'll check that next time I fly the ROTW plane, but I seem to recall not being able to pull the final flap on landing yesterday night.----David KohlFly! II v2.5.240Dell 8200 P4/1.8G, 1024MB RAM, Nvidia GF4 Ti4600 v52.16, WinXP Home Edition SP1.CH Pro Pedals and Yoke USB.

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I hopeful your flaps are up with the right way my frind.Remember your only learning how you do it so take it easy and no aerobotics in it or else.Ivor

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Hi all, Ok, let me collect data and prepare some worlds about it ...laurent (rotw)

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David, I agreed about the right propeller effect: it is a little bit strong.But I don't understand about the flaps: there 3 flaps levels (4 with no flaps position ) on the ROTW'sPa28.:-hmmmRemember: the PA28 Warrior was our first aircraft. May be, one day, we'll create a new model (TJ has a project to improve the inside views). But I don't know when because we are preparing several "small" things...;-)Ren

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Hi all,In the PA28.xxx.PRP file there are 3 tags that you can tweak as leisure : the first 2 are classics ones but the last one is the tricky one. -- Thrust Factor -- 0.359 -- Torque Factor -- 0.4395 0.05I think you must start with the third one and experiment it before the first two.CheersLaurent (rotw)

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Must be my mistake on the flaps. I'll try again when I fly the v230 next time. On the P-Factor, torque, etc., I'll give it a shot to play with the numbers, but it may take me a week or two. I don't get to enjoy my PC much these days.-DK----David KohlFly! II v2.5.240Dell 8200 P4/1.8G, 1024MB RAM, Nvidia GF4 Ti4600 v52.16, WinXP Home Edition SP1.CH Pro Pedals and Yoke USB.

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>If you want to give it a shot, here's the essence. When the>engine is running at full throttle, there should be a right>tendancey, which requires left rudder to compensate. This will>occur on takeoff and during climb-out. Once the RPM's dip into>the green, that tendency should reduce, and by 2400-2500>RPM's, the plane should more or less fly level without rudder>input.>All the PA-28 single engine planes that I've flown............. have a "left" drift tendency requiring "right" rudder. Prop turns counter-clockwise when viewed from the front.L.Adamson

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G'day Larry,< Prop turns counter-clockwise when viewed from the front.>Don't ever attempt to change a PA-28 prop. :-)Cheers,Roger

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Hey Larry!Maybe you were flying the English or Australian PA-28 :( In which side of the cockpit you were sitting?Just kidding.:-hah

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>G'day Larry,>>< Prop turns counter-clockwise when viewed from the front.>>>Don't ever attempt to change a PA-28 prop. :-)>>>Cheers,>>RogerSeriously..........If the prop is viewed from the "front" of the plane; as in standing in front......... it's rotation is counter-clockwise.Between P-factor, torque, & slip-stream; the PA-28 Warrior, Archer, or Arrow will pull to the left during the takeoff roll & climbout. Which requires right rudder to compensate.Then there are geared Rotax's, English aircraft, & others that don't come to mind; where the prop turns the "wrong way" :), and you use left foot.I have a 180 HP Lycoming (Archer, Cessna 172) & Hartzell constant speed prop........ which I actually did install.... :)This pic is old, since the engine now has all the baffles, hoses, & wires connected; but you can at least see the pitch of the prop. P.S.... the fixed pitch props turn the same way..L.Adamson

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