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Guest mondo

Looking for a pcb layout

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Does anyone out there have a pcb layout for the 8mm style 7 segment displays? I have been working on one using eagle but have not come up with a good enough one yet. The freeware version of eagle only allows a certain sized Pcb to be drawn. Milt

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I might have one, although it's based on the 7mm style displays. If the pins are 2x5 vertical, you may be in luck...

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if 7mm is the height of the block .. have you got similar print layout for 13mm ones ?I got the kingsbright I think with 2x5 vertical indeed. CC is the middle pin of each row.Also do you know someone who could make me such PCB's or maybe where you could get those ? Cus the way I am dealing with them now is not clean at all and sometimes it gives bad connections so that I get 6 instead of 8 and such ..

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I have made all of my FSBUS circuit boards and they come out rather well.(almost look like they were made by a pcb house. The only problem I have is drilling them (no drillpress). If you gave me the layout, I could posibly make the board for you. Milt

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Even if you e-mailed me a copy of the baord layout, I could probably redo it in eagle. I like the 2x5 vertical style better than the horizontal. Milt

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I heard that drilling it with a dremel goos very quick and easy.If you could make me a bunch of these 13mm boards I could borrow a dremel somewhere and drill them myself, no problem.

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It might be worth checking out Opencockpits (www.opencockpits.com),I purchased some 3 and 5 display boards. The boards are very good quality and I think were only a couple of euros each.They are designed around the Kingbright SC36-11YWA as far as pin layout goes.If you want I'll try to scan an image and email it to you to see if they would work.Regards Glenn.Edmonton, Canada.

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I can make these boards for you. You are using FSBUS? These boards will be the ones on the FSBUS website, and, of course, I can not charge for them. Where are you located and all of that other good stuff?

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Sounds good. I may give that a try. Miltmondo50m@earthlink.net

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Ok, first let me see if my FSbus order from simcockpit.nl gets here. It should be send out this week .. They say that for over 5 months now ok, but now it seems that someone might have had something .. unclear cuz he wasn't home so they'll come back tomorrow. I think that in the pack I ordered there are these boards from fsbus. If so I'm cool.So I think best thing is first to way and see that. If I don't have anything by this friday I will take legal action.Me and the good-stuff is in Belgium btw ;)

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>I heard that drilling it with a dremel goos very quick and>easy.I bet you never made a couple hundred holes with a dremel by hand....

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> Even if you e-mailed me a copy of the baord layout, I>could probably redo it in eagle. I like the 2x5 vertical>style better than the horizontal.For me the vertical gives me all sort of pain.The pins are too tight, i have to use very small routes...I doubt i'll be able to etch it with my very UNprecise "etching lamp" (what's its name??).I think i'll wait till i finish my homemade cnc...

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I didn't .. but I can't believe it's very hard to do eiter.

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I can't find those boards on the website ... little help ?

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It's not very hard to do, just tedious. I've just finished drilling about 21 circuits, all FSBus. I have a dremel mounted in a cheap hobby tool drill press, I think it cost about $30CDN for the press. After about twenty minutes, I have to take a break because my eyes are going crossed!! I put a small flourescent trouble light behind the drill press and above to light the board. Also, I have had the best success when I increase the speed of the drill to the point that the bit starts to oscilate slightly. As soon as the tip of the bit starts to make contact with the board, it hunts out the lowest spot on the solder pad and stops wobbling. So far I have done a comm, 2 keys, 2 display driver cards, fsled, fsad, and a whole wack of display boards.

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Congrats :) Keep it up and keep those eyes uncrossed :(Out of curiousity .. is it doable without the press ?Ow and what does "oscilate" mean :(

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>I didn't .. but I can't believe it's very hard to do eiter.Not difficult, but drilling by hand can be very destructive on your muscles ;)And on your eyes too :)

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>For me the vertical gives me all sort of pain.>The pins are too tight, i have to use very small routes...>I doubt i'll be able to etch it with my very UNprecise>"etching lamp" (what's its name??).You mean UV lamp for exposure of the boards ?>I think i'll wait till i finish my homemade cnc...If you want to mill/route your boards with a homemade CNC, I wouldn't bet on it being better than the method with photosensitive boards, or even Toner Transfer.If its a really good one, then you might be able to do boards where you have one trace between two IC legs. But even that will be hard to do. I have worked with a commercial PCB mill... And that was the limit of this very expensive machine.You might wanna try the toner transfer method. If you have a laser printer, then you should be all set.check this tutorial of how this method works:www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htmI'm also working on a tutorial, right now no text but lots of pictures:http://cockpit.varxec.net/tools/gal/tonert...galleryidx.htmlManuel

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If you want to try drilling without a press, get lots of drill bits...lots and lots!!!:-lol

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Been there done that! I think that the variables between toner types affects the iron temperature and messes with your results. I tried three different laser printers an HP, Brother and I think the last one was a Canon. Couldn't get the toner to adhere consistently. Finally, broke down and made an exposure box with two 18" blacklights in it for doing photosensitive boards. Kicking myself now that I see how easy it is. Went a little overboard with the lighting though. Using MG Chemicals board, they recommend a five minute exposure. I get a beautiful trace at one minute ten seconds. At five minutes, I'm left with a few little green smudges where solder pads are supposed to be.Bottom line, take a look at buying premade plug and play boards, then figure out what the bottom of the line photoresist exposure kit will set you back. I figure that by making my own boards, I'll save at least $600-800.:-beerchug

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roflManuel if you'd check the page richt you would find this: "PCB for five display digits multiplexed 4 Eur AVAILABLE "http://www.opencockpits.com/images/pd5.jpgAnd while looking at it .. I don't think my displays would fit on these. My CC pin is the 3 and the 8 (each time 3rd from the top.) Don't think this is the case on this pcb.Also it doesn't say for which displays it is or which size .. bad points for IOcards there :(

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>Manuel if you'd check the page richt you would find this: >Also it doesn't say for which displays it is or which size ..>bad points for IOcards there :(Well, the link was just a "commercial" so to speak (yes I know its a non-commerical project). And they are "pushing" their project...Since you say their pinout is not compatible, it was not very useful to post except to hint about the existence of iocards. Thats ok as long as it fills a gap... (I occasionally hint at my stuff as well :) )The general problem with those 7segment boards is that there are too many variants of display sizes, pin arrangements and pinouts. Then it depends on how many displays you need in a row. You'd need boards at least for 3,4, and 5 displays in a block. In addition to that, you can choose between common cathode and common anode. Most of the cockpit interfaces only allow one kind...>And while looking at it .. I don't think my displays would fit>on these. My CC pin is the 3 and the 8 (each time 3rd from>the top.) Don't think this is the case on this pcb.Yes, I use the same displays, just different color. I've made some boards using veroboard and some others are homemade, etched PCBs. I generally make them application specific, not generic like those from FSBus and those in the above picture from iocards.Manuel

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