After more than five years, the internal support for the bolt that one of the desktop clamps screws in to on my CHProducts Yoke failed. The net result was that I was only able to use one of the clamps to secure the yoke to my table. Needless to say, due to the looseness of the plastic bushings around the yoke's shaft, this yoke wasn't very solid to begin with and was less than adequate to use with only one desk clamp.After several failed attempts I was able to repair it and I thought I'd share my solution with you. I'm sure this will void the warranty, so I'm only telling you what I did...you are on your own and at your own risk here!THE FIX1. Remove the top cover. This is done by unscrewing 8 BLACK screws on the bottom. Two of the screws are under the rubber pads at the rear of the unit. You don't need to unscrew the two silver screws near the large pads. You don't need to remove the large pads.2. Take a good look at how the unit works. When you reassemble it, you will need to be sure the switches on the right, the bolts the clamps screw in to, the mechanisms (2) that move the pots, and the bushings are all in the right place.3. The nuts that the desk clamps screw in to are held in place by a plastic rim just underneath them. This is the piece of plastic that failed on my unit. The nut on the failed side should already be gone. (You probably found it on the end of the bolt that runs through the desk clamp!) Replace it with a 1/4 inch 20 threads-per-inch bolt with an attached washer. These integrated bolts/washers can be purchased in a hardware store for under $0.50 USD. You'll find them in the specialty hardware section. The washer is a little curved. (Do not use a "star" lock washer as it is not attached securely enough.) You may need to grind the washer down a little so it is not as thick. I put mine in a vice to flatten it out. Large pliers may also work. The curve in the washer wouldn't be a big deal except it can be thick enough to keep the yoke cover from seating properly. This will make the yoke shaft looser than it already is since there will be a little extra space between the top cover and the bushing. 4. Reassemble the unit. I suggest plugging the yoke in to your computer and run the calibration program to be sure all of the buttons and axes work properly BEFORE screwing it back together. 5. Go fly!LUBRICATIONAs an aside, I had problems with the shaft sticking many years ago. CHProducts recommended a spray-on silicon-based lube. I tried it, but it didn't last very long. Then I found some silicon grease (in the plumbing department-it's used to lubricate water valves, etc.). It's pretty thick and the shaft was very sluggish and sticky for a few days after I applied it. After that it operated smoothly and I haven't re-lubricated it for probably a year now.Again, this is my experience. Follow any of these suggestions at your own risk!!Happy flying.Ron

The silicone grease in lieu of the spray is an interesting solution. I also found the silicone spray to be ineffective. I too voided the warranty and disassembled the yoke as you describe and found the sticky culprit to be the two adjacent plastic bushings in the rear. If their edges are not perfectly machined (and they are not) where they touch, they act as a wedgelike braking mechanism on the shaft. What I did was remove the bushing at the rear of the case and substituted a ring made from felt weatherstripping and duct tape. It needs to be wide enough to mate against the ring attached to the aileron control lever and extend through the back of the case. This keeps the ring from moving with the shaft but doesn't create a bind due to it's softness.Now I have smooth elevator control during turns and landing. CH Products needs to make a design improvement.

And here's a pic of the insides of the CH yoke. Did the repairs 5 yrs ago and it's still going strong! The disassembly process gave me a new appreciation for the work of bomb disposal specialists as they tackle a new type explosive device!!After screw removal, I'd advise turning unit right side up before separating the two halves. Alex ReidView of the internal organs of a CH yoke as seen by the surgeon!http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/182485.jpg

On a portion of your image, I have indicated (1) the sleeve that attaches to the aileron control lever and (2) the sleeve at the rear of the case. Your yoke is older and has a white material (nylon?) as part of sleeve 2 that is not like mine. My sleeve 2 is all black plastic. Your sleeve 1 is located in front of the retainer molded into the case while mine is located behind the retainer and touches the rear sleeve 2. Your sleeve 1 is either misplaced, or there was a design change.Sleeve 2 was the one I replaced with felt weatherstripping.

artp209- Congratulations- you have just been appointed Senior Bomb Disposal Officer! Your observation re sleeve 1 is perceptive. This photo was taken immediately after opening the case and shows the incorrect factory sleeve assembly. The yoke had worked more or LESS OK since purchase but after many twangs and jerks finally seized up. Since I had moved some 500 miles away shortly after new purchase, the dealer couldn't help and CH declined to answer my pleas- including an email to the Pres.So with nothing to lose, I took the plunge to open her up!. The pic does not show also, a broken plastic stud (which epoxy cured)- and a pulled out of its mounting rheostat which was the cause of the final seize up.So much for Quality Control. But I bet there are not many simmers as qualified as we are, in the disarming of strange devices!!!Alex Reid