hothopper

Keep in mind that with 2 screens, your landing runway can be split across the bezels. While 2 screens are better than one, either 1 or 3 screens keep "where you are going" centered nicely on one screen. I've found it quite annoying to have my view split down the middle between two screens. But that's just me.

I took mine apart, too. It seems like a lot of work, and it is! But here's a simpler method that has worked well for me: If you're having trouble with the signal coming out of the pots in the Saitek Throttle Quadrant, do the following: 1. Unplug the USB cable. 2. Place the unit on its right side on top of a table (so the LED is at the top and T5/T6 are at the bottom). 3. Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner with a straw on the nozzle and shoot plenty of cleaner at the base of the throttle arm. Move the arm back and forth its full length a few times. 4. Wait a few minutes for the spray to evaporate, then test. The museum I volunteer at has a bunch of these. I've probably brought 30 or more units that had noisy signals back to life using this method very quickly and easily.

If you're having trouble with the signal coming out of the pots in the Saitek Throttle Quadrant, do the following: 1. Unplug the USB cable. 2. Place the unit on its right side on top of a table (so the LED is at the top and T5/T6 are at the bottom). 3. Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner with a straw on the nozzle and shoot plenty of cleaner at the base of the throttle arm. Move the arm back and forth its full length a few times. 4. Wait a few minutes for the spray to evaporate, then test. The museum I volunteer at has a bunch of these. I've probably brought 30 or more units that had noisy signals back to life using this method.

I don't quite understand your problem, but a software program like FinePrint (http://fineprint.com/products/fineprint/index.html), rather than a new printer, might give you a print option that will solve your problem.

The nVidia 8800 graphics cards are getting hard to find. You might want to check out this $200 XFX GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB SLI DVI/TV PCIe Video Card:http://www.gearxs.com/gearxs/product_info....oducts_id=10197

After more than five years, the internal support for the bolt that one of the desktop clamps screws in to on my CHProducts Yoke failed. The net result was that I was only able to use one of the clamps to secure the yoke to my table. Needless to say, due to the looseness of the plastic bushings around the yoke's shaft, this yoke wasn't very solid to begin with and was less than adequate to use with only one desk clamp.After several failed attempts I was able to repair it and I thought I'd share my solution with you. I'm sure this will void the warranty, so I'm only telling you what I did...you are on your own and at your own risk here!THE FIX1. Remove the top cover. This is done by unscrewing 8 BLACK screws on the bottom. Two of the screws are under the rubber pads at the rear of the unit. You don't need to unscrew the two silver screws near the large pads. You don't need to remove the large pads.2. Take a good look at how the unit works. When you reassemble it, you will need to be sure the switches on the right, the bolts the clamps screw in to, the mechanisms (2) that move the pots, and the bushings are all in the right place.3. The nuts that the desk clamps screw in to are held in place by a plastic rim just underneath them. This is the piece of plastic that failed on my unit. The nut on the failed side should already be gone. (You probably found it on the end of the bolt that runs through the desk clamp!) Replace it with a 1/4 inch 20 threads-per-inch bolt with an attached washer. These integrated bolts/washers can be purchased in a hardware store for under $0.50 USD. You'll find them in the specialty hardware section. The washer is a little curved. (Do not use a "star" lock washer as it is not attached securely enough.) You may need to grind the washer down a little so it is not as thick. I put mine in a vice to flatten it out. Large pliers may also work. The curve in the washer wouldn't be a big deal except it can be thick enough to keep the yoke cover from seating properly. This will make the yoke shaft looser than it already is since there will be a little extra space between the top cover and the bushing. 4. Reassemble the unit. I suggest plugging the yoke in to your computer and run the calibration program to be sure all of the buttons and axes work properly BEFORE screwing it back together. 5. Go fly!LUBRICATIONAs an aside, I had problems with the shaft sticking many years ago. CHProducts recommended a spray-on silicon-based lube. I tried it, but it didn't last very long. Then I found some silicon grease (in the plumbing department-it's used to lubricate water valves, etc.). It's pretty thick and the shaft was very sluggish and sticky for a few days after I applied it. After that it operated smoothly and I haven't re-lubricated it for probably a year now.Again, this is my experience. Follow any of these suggestions at your own risk!!Happy flying.Ron

Like a previous post mentioned, I tried a spray-on silicon-based lube that only lasted a few days.Then I tried a coating of silicon-based grease (found some in the plumbing department of a hardware store that is designed to be used for water valves). I put it on without taking the yoke apart. At first the shaft was sticky, but after a few days it slid nicely. The nice part is that I haven't had to re-lubricate it for many, many months. There is still some play in the bearings, but that is part of the yoke's design.If you need to disassemble the yoke, there are 8 BLACK screws on the bottom to take out. Two of them are hidden under the small rubber pads in the rear of the unit. As I recall, you DON'T need to take the two silver screws located near the large rubber pads out.This likely voids any warranty, so you're on your own here. Good luck!

This topic has been moved by the moderator of this forum. It can be found at:http://forums.avsim.net/dcboard.php?az=sho...topic_id=330350

I recently completed the Caribbean Landing mission. I turned off onto a taxi way and went to spot view to watch the 747 take off (it was pointed the wrong way while holding short during my approach, but somehow turned itself around.) After the 747 passed me, there was what looked like a small truck on the runway centerline traveling in the opposite direction! The 747 "ran over" the truck with the front wheels, but there was no collision. The plane took off and the truck continued to a taxi way and turned off of the runway.Has anyone else seen this?

Sounds both clever and tricky to me. Great idea!Just FYI for everyone out there, I originally started this project several months ago when I got laid off from a computer company I had worked for for 23 years. Now I'm starting to get some steady consulting business and will have to put this project on the back burner until possibly some future date. Thanks for all of your replies.

I haven't looked into FSUIPC as a source of the data. Your reply is the only one I have received. I wouldn't think this would be very difficult to do, though.

Is there a parameter I can pick up to monitor the frame rate?I'm new at gauge building and am starting with a simple but useful project: monitor the frame rate and if it falls below a pre-determine threshold value, play a tone and display the current rate in a small box, then continue to display the rate until it rises a little above the threshold. I've read through Microsoft's panel and gauge SDK, but can't find a parameter to call to get the frame rate. Any help would be appreciated.On the other hand, if anyone knows of such a gauge, please let me know. No use duplicating efforts!Thanks,Ron