July 29, 201114 yr Author Yes, I am familiar with FSX.CFG tweaks, and I have run the www.venetubo.com/fsx.html tool on my FSX.CFG. When I looked in my FSX.CFG, I found that I no longer had UsePools=0, so I put it back. Good to know about adding more than 3 cores not helping with frames. As for Vcore when running FSX, I am seeing it alternate between 1.452 and 1.464. These values compared to alternation between 1.440 and 1.452 when I'm not running FSX. So now that I've got my machine running as fast as it can, what frame rates would I see if I went out and got the same MOBO, CPU and RAM you are running (and overclocked to 4.8 GHz)? Just curious... MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
July 29, 201114 yr As for Vcore when running FSX, I am seeing it alternate between 1.452 and 1.464. These values compared to alternation between 1.440 and 1.452 when I'm not running FSX. You have some Vdroop there. No big deal probably but it might be a good idea to make sure it's not too much. Vdroop is a voltage drop that increases with CPU workload. That means that you end up with higher Vcore while idling than under full load. You have about .01V less Vcore under full load than in FSX, and it will probably be a bit higher when idle. The maximum recommended Vcore for your CPU would be 1.5V, so I would switch off all power saving modes in BIOS to check your idle Vcore (with Cool & Quiet, C1E the CPU throttles down Vcore and "hides" the actual idle Vcore) To counteract vdroop there is usually a setting in the mobo's BIOS, called LLC (Load Line Calibration) ,Vdroop control or something like that. I couldn't find anything in your board's manual though. Vdroop is not a bad thing per se, it's actually a feature meant to protect the CPU from Vcore spikes in transient states (when the load decreases or increases) but when overclocking most people prefer not to have a Vcore out of specs when idling. I don't think that will be the case here, maybe 1.47, 1.48V So now that I've got my machine running as fast as it can, what frame rates would I see if I went out and got the same MOBO, CPU and RAM you are running (and overclocked to 4.8 GHz)? Just curious... Sandy Bridge is about a 40-50% faster clock for clock than Phenom II due to it's higher IPC (Instructions Per Clock). If you add maximum overclock (4 vs 4.8GHz for example) that's an extra 20%, add the 20% of the IPC increase and that's like a 10% more. All in all it's a 70 - 80% faster. I had a Phenom II x4 965BE, which is basically the same CPU you have, and a x6 1090T. That's more or less what I saw in FSX in terms of FPS too. FSX scales almost 1:1 with overclock and IPC.If you are considering switching to SB, you would only need a CPU (I5 2500K - $220) and a motherboard (an MSI P67A-C43 for $115 for example) The RAM and cooler are compatible so long as you keep the LGA1156 mounting brackets of your CM hyper 212+
July 29, 201114 yr Author Are you recommending the I5 2500K (instead of the I7 2600K) and the MSI MOBO (with no new RAM) for the sake of saving money? How high can the 2500K be overclocked? I was thinking that going to 2133MHz RAM might give me a boost as well, since my current RAM is 1333MHz. Darn! Time for another sleep cycle... MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
July 29, 201114 yr The 2500K overclocks the same and performs the same as the 2600K.2133 RAM will translate in a 5-6% FPS increaseI just suggested that in case you didn't want to spend too much, but if you want a board with more features (the 2500K will overclock just the same in that board than in a $300 one) or faster RAM, that's your call of course, but paying an extra $100 for the 2600K makes little sense
July 29, 201114 yr Author Lots of very good advice. Paying the extra $100 for the 2600 is definitely unnecessary. And I wouldn't want to spend $200 more on a motherboard unless it translated to a performance increase. From the looks of it, the MSI P67A-C43 has what I need (slots, I/O ports, etc.) to support my current hardware. Plus, I can always buy the faster RAM at a later date if I want to. Thanks so much for everything! This has been both very educational and a heck of a lot of fun! MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
July 29, 201114 yr If you don't need more than 6 SATA ports, no SLI, the USB ports are enough (not sure how many it has) then that's a board that meets your needs. With all that you should be able to hit 4.5 - 4.8GHz, and 2500K are even easier to OC. You just need to set your CPU multi and Vcore. There's no CPU-NB, Vcpu-nb, HT.... it's a walk in the park :DLet us know how you do if you decide to pull the trigger on SB!
July 29, 201114 yr Author Roger that! =) MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
August 3, 201114 yr Author If you don't need more than 6 SATA ports, no SLI, the USB ports are enough (not sure how many it has) then that's a board that meets your needs. With all that you should be able to hit 4.5 - 4.8GHz, and 2500K are even easier to OC. You just need to set your CPU multi and Vcore. There's no CPU-NB, Vcpu-nb, HT.... it's a walk in the park :D Let us know how you do if you decide to pull the trigger on SB! Okay - looks like I'll take the plunge tomorrow! Darn it! Where did I put those LGA1156 mounting brackets from my CM hyper 212+? Oh, well...another $25. Plus (embarrassed to admit this), I banged into my old 212+ with a fan that was running at the time and bent some of the fins of one top corner. Live and learn...slow and steady, not fast and sloppy. Duh! I went a little further into the video I was watching and the brackets are the same, but adjusted a bit differently. If it were your $25, would you spend it to get a new 212+ with no bent fins? MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
August 4, 201114 yr Author Okay - I'm now officially Sandy Bridged! Install of new MOBO and processor went fairly smoothly. The one thing I had difficulty with was mounting the heatsink (my wife provided an extra pair of hands, which made all the difference!). Ran prime95 a short (<5 min) while to see temps at 100% load. They were 51, 54, 53, and 53. Are these reasonable for my CPU at stock clocking? MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
August 10, 201114 yr Author Thanks. I've been away for a bit while installing the various other apps that I use on my computer. Today I am back to installing FSX and the addons I like. Then I'll be ready to start tweaking FSX and overclocking my shiny, new Sandy Bridge CPU. MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
August 10, 201114 yr Author Well, I maxed out at a happy 4.6GHz with Vcore at 1.35V. As you said, overclocking with SB is a walk in the park. Here's a picture of HWMonitor, CPU-Z and Core Temp during a load test: MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
August 10, 201114 yr Well, I maxed out at a happy 4.6GHz with Vcore at 1.35V. As you said, overclocking with SB is a walk in the park. Here's a picture of HWMonitor, CPU-Z and Core Temp during a load test: 1.35V? I see 1.328V there
August 10, 201114 yr Author Well, now...that is interesting. I do have Vcore set to 1.35V in the BIOS, as shown in the photo below. However, the photo also shows a current Vcore value of less than 1.35V... MOBO: MSI P67A-C43 (B3) CPU: Intel i5-2500K @ 4.6GHz RAM: 8GB Kingston 4x2GB @ 1333MHz HEATSINK: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CASE: Antec 300 GPU: XFX RADEON HD 6790 @ 840MHz/1050MHz Monitors: 3 x ViewSonic VX2450 PSU: Thermaltake TR2-500W HDD1: Intel 55GB SSD HDD2: OCZ Agilty 2 40GB SSD (FSX drive) HDD3: 2TB RAID OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
August 10, 201114 yr Well, now...that is interesting. I do have Vcore set to 1.35V in the BIOS, as shown in the photo below. However, the photo also shows a current Vcore value of less than 1.35V... Yes, you have some Vdroop and/or Vdrop there. It's normal.You can set your Vdroop control to cancel it and maybe go for 4.7 - 4.8GHz It works like this: Vbios: the Vcore you set in Bios (1.35V in your case)Vidle: the Vcore you have in Windows with the CPU idle and no power saving modes enabled (we don't know what's your Vidle)Vload: full load Vcore (1.328V) Vdrop = Vbios - VidleVdroop = Vidle - Vload ...so what you have is 1.35 - 1.328 = 0.022V of combined Vdrop + Vdroop Vbios is not important (so Vdrop isn't important either).Vload and Vidle are the important ones. If you have Vdroop your Vload will be lower than Vidle, and often overclockers prefer to cancel their Vdroop to keep the CPU from "overvolting" at low workloads.If you want to try it, you'll need to figure out what your Vidle is (disabling C1E or whatever power saving modes you have there)Increase your Vdroop control until Vload = Vidle Changing the Vdroop control may result in a different full load Vcore (usually higher) so you may need to adjust accordingly so that you end up with 1.328V again
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