Sticky CH Yoke

[Guest FattyBear]

The pitch action on my CH yoke is very "sticky" as it has been sitting unused for a while and collected dust. I put W-d40 on the rod but that didn't help. Anyone have an idea?

[RobertRent 17]

See the below thread for the solution to both sticky buttons and sticky yoke.http://forums.avsim.net/dcboard.php?az=sho...ing_type=searchYou just need to ream out the bearings through which the yoke shaft slides. Be very careful when opening the yoke to note the positions of the parts, and be gentle when reaming out the bearings so that you do not gouge the bearings and you do not ream out too much.Cheers,Robert

[Guest FattyBear]

Thank you very much for that post Robert. I cant figure out what kind of screwdriver I need to remove the screws though.

[Guest _patrol_]

Don't use WD-40 or anything like it on the yoke shaft; all it will do is attract dust and make things worse. Take the thing appart, clean off the oil, and use a dry lubricant. Try to locate what is binding and correct it. On my old gameport yoke I had to use a fine bladed saw to cut through both bushings and insert a strip of plastic to shim them out, and I've never had a problem since. It's also a good idea to wipe any dust off the shaft before using it so that dust doesn't keep getting into the bushings.DavidPS: As I recall the screws are Phillips P1 or P2.

[Guest FattyBear]

Hmm Ive been able to remove all the screws but the casing still wont budge.

[Guest mkuebeler]

Silicone grease. Get a tube from your local hobby shop.Mark Kuebeler

[Guest _patrol_]

>Hmm Ive been able to remove all the screws but the casing still wont >budge.AlexSome of the screws are hidden under the round rubber 'feet'. Also, I found that any stickiness on both of my CH yokes (game port and the three lever USB) was caused by defects such as burrs etc. Once I fixed those everything worked fine and I never use any lubricant; plastic bushings just don't seem to need lubrication. Just try to keep the dust out and never use any oily or greasy lube as it will act as a magnet for dust.David

[Guest DanWalloch]

CH's offical tip is Silicone spary.

[rhodges 6]

Silicon spray with teflon has worked well for me.

[N4865G 8]

I have monitored all and every thread on this topic for the last 3 years mate.I wasted my previous yoke by trying to tweak it - it eventually bacame unusable and out of callibration for good.Now, to the golden tip:Do yourself a favour go to Home Depot (if you live in the US) and get yourself a product called:Liquid Wrench Dry Lube with PTFEIt comes in a small 20' can with a little plastic straw for more precise application.Watch out for other Liquid Wrench cans which look alike but they are meant to be used for other applications. You want the one with PTFE in it.Take it home, get your yoke out, pull the yoke as much as it comes and spray the shaft from all sides. Hold it till it dries (so it becomes powdery white, give it several more minutes), then push back to neutral again, and push all the way in. Do the same with the aft part of the shaft.If you are not afraid to open the housing, unscrew all the screws at the bottom as advised above and do the same to the internal part of the shaft.You should wipe the excess lube of your shaft so it is not white at the end. But give it 10 or so minutes before you do it so it has enough time to eat in.Enjoy! This has so far been the best way to get it smooth.And I can assure you - I was paranoid about it for 2 years and I've tried every single grease on it.Hope I helped a bit,BestDom

[Guest Slacktide]

>The pitch action on my CH yoke is very "sticky" as it has>been sitting unused for a while and collected dust. I put>W-d40 on the rod but that didn't help. Anyone have an idea? WD-40 Bad! Contains petroleum distillates and melts a lot of kinds of plastics.My results on yoke lubrication:Silicone spray, as recomened by CH: Works fine for a few days, then needs re-application. A pain in the butt.Silicone grease - Sil-Glyde brand: Lubes OK, but a bit too thick. The viscosity adds some damping to the yoke motion. Collects dust like a magnet.Loon Reel Lube: A product representative who visited a meeting of the fishing club I belong to gave me a free sample of this. Works awesome, lubes great, doesn't evaporate after a few days (like the silicone spray), is thinner than the silicone grease, and DOES NOT ATTRACT DUST. I should know, I live in a house with 3 cats, and I find their damn hair everywhere. One applicaton lasts me 3 months or so. I've seen it at better fishing shops near me. (i.e. not Walmart). If you can't find it locally, just google for "Loon Reel lube"Description from the manufacturer:Developed for use with fine fly reels, but also excellent for firearms. A synthetic oil combined Fluorocarbon and Hydrostop, an outstanding water repellent, Reel Lube gives you he best combination of lubrication and water resistance to prevent rust and friction damage. Dan

[Guest cseidel]

I have used a product called Labelle 106. It is a plastic compatible grease with PTFE. I obtained it at my local hobby shop. It is a very thin white grease that lasts for months without reapplication. I have been using it for about a year and a half without a problem.Chuck

[Guest JoeW]

Do not use any greese or liquid. It may attack the plastic. Use a dry lube like Graphite or Teflon powder..I put Graphite in my MS Precision stickJoe W.

[Guest SoarPics]

Radio Shack sells the perfect product for this application. It's called "Lube Gell" and comes in a 3oz. tube. It doesn't collect dirt or kitty hairs, won't drip off, is safe with ANY plastic, and most importantly won't turn rancid. There's enough in a tube to lubricate a yoke many times. And the price is right... $2-$3.Greg

[Guest Slacktide]

>Do not use any greese or liquid. It may attack the plastic.>Use a dry lube like Graphite or Teflon powder..>I put Graphite in my MS Precision stick>Joe W.CH products specifically reccomends a liquid lube to use on their yoke.Dan