Yes, I’m still using the magnets on my yoke and it’s working great. Maybe once a month I was needing to run a quick recalibration but doing flight control checks before taxi took care of any issues. I’m still very pleased with my fix. I even added one to the left side of the throttle quadrant because I found the spoiler/speed break was not going back to the full forward position without me pushing on the lever pretty heavily. With the magnet now as soon as it hits the forward stop the speed break/spoiler is retracted..

Thrustmaster has issues with these things. I closed out my last RMA ticket because I did not want to send it in again, but I told them how I fixed my problem and they thank me for the information.

I had the issue where the roll axis was 'jittering' a large degree from centre almost constantly. No amount of calibration would remedy this and I even tried the magnet on the back of the yoke to no avail.
I decided to open it up - I disconnected all the flat ribbon cables and tested each with a multimeter for opens or shorts. All were good. No issues were noted with the circuit boards.
As the roll axis was the issue I removed the back cover of the yoke to access the roll axis hall sensor, found no visible debris but did find the 2 cables connected to the board were under tension due to the way they were glued down to the yoke. I disconnected them, removed the glue and separated the individual wires so they could sit in a relaxed way. I cleaned the hall sensor on the board and the target on the yoke itself, reassembled and the calibration is now rock solid with no erratic responses.

On 1/27/2024 at 10:42 AM, Wise87 said:

I only used one. Also make sure you recalibrate the yoke after you install it. Mine has been working great. Also note I have the two throttle levers full down. They have a tendency to miss with the roll axis.

thank you! recalibrating worked for me

I have had the same problem for a few months and had basically given up and gone back to my old Saitek Pro yoke. Then thinking about replacing the Saitek yoke potentiometers with Hall effect sensors, I thought I'd open the TCA yoke and "see what I can see". It was out of warantee and I wasn't going to spend money sending it somewhere to get fixed - for some it didn't help anyway. While the whole thing was apart but the sensor bit plugged back in, I noticed that with a larger, slightly stronger magnet, it seemed to work better. It didn't take long for me to realise it didn't really... However, I did notice that instead of moving the magnet in a "spinning" motion under the sensor, it showed the correct reading on the "calibration grid" when I moved the magnet in a straight line in front of the sensor, from one edge of the magnet to the opposite edge, essentially. But how could that work in the design and positioning of the sensor. I tried MANY things, and concluded - it doesn't... I then hit on the idea, that I have subsequently read in a post related to some other Hall sensor mod, that a small bar magnet might work.  It turned out that, when placed just off-centre of the sensor, it still measured enough of a movement from N pole to S pole, to read nearly perfectly! However, it didn't seem to register an even movement along the whole range - i.e. it was more sensitive near the middle range than near the outer edge (apologies for not using the correct technical jargon here...) After replacing it all (more on that below), I adjusted the resonse curve slightly and got a near perfect roll movement, with which I am extremely pleased!

Now a few caveats: I did "dig" out the original (VERY small!!) round magnet which did a bit of damage to the plastic into with it was glued/cast. Also: I could not put my little bar magnet in the same place. There was a rough hole and I would not be able to get the positioning just right. I therefor glued a very thin metal plate/disc (blade of an old, cheap extendable "Stanley" knife, rounded with an angle grinder (yes! I know, right)) onto which I was then able to place the magnet in the right position relative to the sensor, first to get the centre, and then checking the roll by turning the yoke. I had to move it (with a plastic tweezer) a couple of times to get the desired repsonse. Lastly, once I was happy with the roll movement, I dropped a little bit of hot glue carefully just on the edge of the magnet to keep it in place, with the option of easily removing it if I had got it wrong. Happy to report it was right first go!! 

I don't know how to add photos to this but I am happy to oblige if someone finds this useful.

Cornelius

 

On 9/17/2024 at 4:43 PM, Cornelius van Tonder said:

I have had the same problem for a few months and had basically given up and gone back to my old Saitek Pro yoke. Then thinking about replacing the Saitek yoke potentiometers with Hall effect sensors, I thought I'd open the TCA yoke and "see what I can see". It was out of warantee and I wasn't going to spend money sending it somewhere to get fixed - for some it didn't help anyway. While the whole thing was apart but the sensor bit plugged back in, I noticed that with a larger, slightly stronger magnet, it seemed to work better. It didn't take long for me to realise it didn't really... However, I did notice that instead of moving the magnet in a "spinning" motion under the sensor, it showed the correct reading on the "calibration grid" when I moved the magnet in a straight line in front of the sensor, from one edge of the magnet to the opposite edge, essentially. But how could that work in the design and positioning of the sensor. I tried MANY things, and concluded - it doesn't... I then hit on the idea, that I have subsequently read in a post related to some other Hall sensor mod, that a small bar magnet might work.  It turned out that, when placed just off-centre of the sensor, it still measured enough of a movement from N pole to S pole, to read nearly perfectly! However, it didn't seem to register an even movement along the whole range - i.e. it was more sensitive near the middle range than near the outer edge (apologies for not using the correct technical jargon here...) After replacing it all (more on that below), I adjusted the resonse curve slightly and got a near perfect roll movement, with which I am extremely pleased!

Now a few caveats: I did "dig" out the original (VERY small!!) round magnet which did a bit of damage to the plastic into with it was glued/cast. Also: I could not put my little bar magnet in the same place. There was a rough hole and I would not be able to get the positioning just right. I therefor glued a very thin metal plate/disc (blade of an old, cheap extendable "Stanley" knife, rounded with an angle grinder (yes! I know, right)) onto which I was then able to place the magnet in the right position relative to the sensor, first to get the centre, and then checking the roll by turning the yoke. I had to move it (with a plastic tweezer) a couple of times to get the desired repsonse. Lastly, once I was happy with the roll movement, I dropped a little bit of hot glue carefully just on the edge of the magnet to keep it in place, with the option of easily removing it if I had got it wrong. Happy to report it was right first go!! 

I don't know how to add photos to this but I am happy to oblige if someone finds this useful.

Cornelius

 

Hi can you tell where you got the bar magnet? I am considering trying the same thing on my TM yoke

Also, if you have any pics of what it looked like when finished, that would be very helpful!

Edited September 24, 20241 yr by Richard Jacks

Hi, Richard

(What a coincidence: an hour ago I arrived back home in East Sussex, UK after a 3hour drive from Birmingham, West Midlands,UK, where my daughter is starting her 3rd year at university next week!)

Yes, so, I simply ordered it through Amazon: the description is something like "Neodymium rectangular/bar/small /collar stay magnets for crafts etc etc" the spec size they give is 10x5x3mm but one of the photos show more precise measurements of 9.01x4.52x2.57mm but close enough i guess. 

I know this is an old topic but I wanted to share the latest update. I started having the issue again, even with the magnets and I was about to give up on my Boeing yoke when I came across this video. I decided to give it a try and it works perfectly now. After following the video and then running the TM Yoke calibration instruction, my X&Y Axis are dead on. No more drift or spikes while moving the yoke. 

 

 

Edited April 18Apr 18 by Wise87

Just had two friends perform the above fix and both of their Yokes are working perfectly now. How Thrustmaster overlooked this detail is beyond me. Hot glueing the ribbon cable to prevent movement fixed all the issues.