DerStig

Samsung 840 Pro is better than OCZ Vector in many ways, one being stability. Apple uses Samsung as their solid state drives in all of their products, last I checked OCZ was well OCZ. That should tell you something. I also think the Pro comes with a lot longer warranty. I was the 2nd person in north america to own the retail 512 GB version of 840 Pro, I have done weeks of research and had to pull so many strings to get it. I think I got it 2.5 months before it was available in Newegg and Amazon and when it became first available, for at least 2 weeks, it was sold for $400 more than what I paid for ($500 vs $900). I also wouldn't touch those PCI-e SSDs, they are good on paper, but there is a 50% hit/miss chance with those, most systems have "some" issues with them.

Yes. Again, I am hearing every single callout/sound/click/etc except the ones listed in my original post. It's not like GPWS just does not work. I can also hear the missing call outs being called during GPWS testing, so its not like the files are missing or cannot be played.

Exactly.

The water will reach an equilibrium point (delta + ambient temp) and the rate of heat exchange greatly depends on fins per inch and the fans you use. That being said, think about a reverse exponential graph, after some point, the decrease in temperatures become very marginal. If you have the financial means and the real estate in your case, its always a better idea to have more radiator surface than to have fans. More radiator, more water, more water, lower delta, that's obviously assuming you are using the right radiators (lower fin per inch + high RPM fan OR higher fin per inch + low RPM fan with high static pressure). I went crazy and even added temperature sensors into my radiators to see how much they cool. My board (ASUS RIVE) has 3 temperature sensors, so I'm using 2 of them, one for the IN of the 1st radiator and one for the OUT of the 3rd radiator. During idle, their temps are equal and is always same as ambient temperature. Under extreme load, IN becomes +9C ambient whereas OUT can go as low as +4C ambient or as high as +7C ambient depending on factors such as humidity and filter cleanness.

The bigger the radiator surface is, the more it will cool. It's much better to buy more radiator than to buy more fans. But obviously the problem is real estate. Most people can barely fit a 360 radiator into their case let alone a 480, in that case they add another set of fans and use it in push and pull configuration. One thing to note with radiators is fins per inch, the lower the number, the faster fan you will need (and the cheaper the radiator will be).

I honestly would stay away from kits and buy the best from each brand and combine. XSPC is considered "best bang for the buck" type of block, EK makes the best CPU blocks followed by a whole bunch of brands. Once you go with the top 5 brands (and XSPC is one of them), there is very little difference in price between them, top 1 and 5 will vary about $20-30. For radiators, black Ice SR1 is pretty much the king when it comes to high fpi and performance combination. There are 2 main pump brands (and every water cooling manufacturer uses them underneath), so you cant really go wrong in any brand, as long as they have the features you need (RPM monitor is important especially if you are going to have 1 pump). I'd get the best compression fittings you can find, they can be as expensive as 35$ here in the U.S or for as cheap as 15$ for a set, you do not want to go cheap on these.

Hi, any help?

Thank you yes that's it.

Okay so I tried to go into the AIRCRAFT screen in CDU and I have every single callout turn on, but yet with the UNITED 737-900 livery I can only hear 1000 callout, no 2500, no minimums, and nothing else. I have FS2Crew installed. What can be wrong?

There was a thread here that had extra sound files for takeoff and landing rolls on runway, I just cannot find it. Can someone help me out?

I went with CaseLabs. My particular model is STH10. I'll admit, it's one expensive case and I went a bit extreme but you don't have to. I have 3 of the 480 radiators. 2 at the top (one of the pictures have it) and 1 at the bottom. Each radiator has 4 of the e-loop noiseblocker fans rated at 800-2000 rpm but I undervolt them and run them around 500-600 rpm. The thing with CaseLabs is, they make extremely high quality stuff. It's unbelievable. It's a family owned company that's been doing this for 30 years (I believe its 2 brothers) and they personally help you with any questions you have and customize your case the way you want. That being said, you probably do not need such a massive case. They make cases that cost half of what I paid that will fit 1 large radiator easily, I did what I did because 1) I am going to go TRI SLI soon, 2) I wanted to have a full custom loop (mobo + GPU) so I needed the space for tubing, 3) I was so sick of dealing with tight spaces in my Antec 1200, I wanted to get the biggest case I could! What I can tell you is though, aluminum is a must with these cases. The material is extremely high quality (Lian-Li also makes all aluminum cases) and it lasts such a long time and for lowering the total thermal footprint of the system, they also play a role. This is not visible from these pictures but I also used Demiflex.com to custom order filters that attach to your case with magnets. My apartment has carpet floors and I have central A/C. So dust is everywhere and I think I made the right choice by getting filters. They work extremely well, they are very easy to clean, and inside of my case has very little dust (even with 13 fans running all the time), and I never had to clean it yet. Thank you sir, I appreciate it, it wasn't easy to get my wife to agree to this though. Every time she sees it she says "this looks like a furniture!"

I have uploaded some pictures here for you : Let me know if you have any questions.

If you buy the right case, there is no modification necessary. If you use compression fittings (they are the things that will basically attach the tube to the fitting itself on the water block) there is no chance of leaks. That being said, you need to do leak testing and pump testing when you put your system together for the first time. I honestly had a leak and it was totally my fault, the fitting on the block was loose, so it was leaking water. Don't be scared though, because you will do this when there will be no power/current going into any of the components. You will simply plug in the 4 pin molex connector of the pump into PSU, turn on the PSU, and let the pump run for 12 hours. Even if you spray your motherboard with water, nothing will happen granted it is dry when the actual current goes through it. When you are building your loop, you can add a drain (basically a few inch long tube with a little fitting at the end that can be screwed with a screw driver) so that when you need to do any modifications on the case and you need to drain the water, its very easy to do so. Listen, I was very against water cooling myself, I thought what the heck, its a waste of time and money, air cooling is good enough, and this is too much work. The flaw in that argument is extreme overclocking (which is important for FSX). There is no air solution or a closed loop solution that can run the overclocks I am running 24/7 in a stable manner (unless you want to use extremely loud fans and I mean extremely loud). For games such as BF3 or Crysis where GPU is the bottleneck, you can get away with air cooling, but for FSX and specifically if you are considering 6 or more cores, you need water cooling for these temperatures. My CPU puts out 220W of heat alone, thats massive. Add to that my GPU and RAMs, when I'm playing FSX, the heat output is around 750W, no air solution is going to cool that down the way a custom loop does. Lastly, the thing looks so cool, I am going to take some pictures and post here.

Start looking at water cooling specific sub forums in toms hardware/overclockers uk/overclock.net forums. Most of them have specific guides to go into great lengths about water cooling (I know at least toms hardware does and its pages long). As for the brands: - CPU : EK/Heatkiller - Mobo : EK - GPU : Heatkiller - Pump : EK/MCP - Rad : BlackIce SR1 (Quiet/high performance) - Tubing : Doesnt really matter - Fitting : Doesnt really matter as long as you buy compression fittings. The above parts are the best in each category, so to give you an idea, EK Supremacy LGA2011 waterblock is what 3980X is for LGA2011 CPUs, it is the best one out there. Good news is, price difference between the best and good is $30-40, so if you can afford that, you dont ever have to worry about buying CPU blocks, because these things will last a life time and they are compatible across different sockets. You just pay $5-10 and buy the plates/adapters and you are done. Same goes with radiators, and pumps. With water cooling, if you spend more, you get more durability and thats important. Also, never EVER use anything other than distilled water. Just my 2 cents:)

Just want to bring up noise with these closed loop water coolers. I hope you are aware that to achieve these past 4.5 Ghz overclocks you will need some serious fan power and that means noise. My PC is in my bedroom so noise is extremely important for me. The only time I can comfortably play FSX is when my wife is sleeping:) Maybe you should consider building a custom loop with the money you will save by not getting 3930k and not getting H100. CPU block - $100 GPU block - $100 Rad - $150 Pump - $80 Fittings/Tubing - $80 That's about $500. Minus $300 you wont pay for 3930k, and $100 you won't pay for H100, and $50 you won't pay for better fans for H100, it almost adds up. If you told me you will be running stock, I wouldn't say anything, but if you are looking at OCing past 4.5 Ghz, you need to consider this. One more thing, the AA/AF (not so much for FSX, but for other games) brings down the FPS a lot. When I OC my graphics card, I get about 8 fps more in BF3 when AA and AF are both cranked up all the way. So if you are going to OC your GPU as well, again, noise will be even worse. Dazz, If Haswell does %30 better than my current setup in FSX (so that's 26 fps instead of 20) without taking a hit on other things, I am going to sell all of my parts at a loss and will be the first person to buy it. You also do understand that people use their computers for things other than playing FSX, which is a a game from 7 years ago? Who would want to build a computer only for FSX?