Hi,i'm looking for rotary encoders with 2 axes, to control (with 2 in 1)two different values, but with one double knob.I.E with a double axes rotary encoder, i could handle the Nav1 Stby freq. One axis for increase/decrease decimal values and the other the 100s (VOR1 114.40 or, COM1 129.80 etc) Do you know where can i find them in the market? I prefer mechanical rotary encoders, as the optical are more expensive.ThanksEddie

http://www.grayhill.com/index.htmyou can buy them at grayhillBesides that once I saw a site explaining how to make them yourself by using 2 normal rotary encoders. Unfortenatly I do not have the URL of that site.Norbert

Hi Eddie,I remember that too...but it was on a forum long ago.In my reference files, I saved only a very poor photo of the setup. Maybe you will see enough to get an idea from it.Best regards,Ken

Here's an intresting topic about making concentric rotary encoders.http://forums.avsim.com/dcboard.php?az=sho...ing_type=searchCheers,

http://www.flightsimnetwork.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/246.htmlI found itthats the one I was referring toNorbert

Hi Eddie. Go to www.switchchannel.com & have a look at their RE11CT-V1Y12-AF2CS. We use these mechancial encoders in our radio stack with no problems. Best news is they cost $1.29 USD each. No mimimum buy. No credit card, he actually bills you.Jim

Jim, do you mean RE11CT-V1Y12-EF2CS instead -AF2CS? As i saw they don't have a product with A or with dual decks/axes in RE11 category.Is this a special product to send them an email?Thanks a lotEddie

Hi Eddie.Here is the data sheet page for the RE11 series. http://www.switchchannel.com/products/encoder/re11/index.htmScroll down the page & you will see the -AF2CS at the bottom. Scroll on down to the data sheet & you will see that the RE11 has an A & B deck. You have to hols the shaft in to activate the bottom deck. We use these to tune our Comm & Nav frequencies. One deck controls the MHz & the push button pushed in tunes the 25KHz.Cheers,Jim

Hi,look at http://www.flightdecksolutions.com . in the Accessories Pages we offer Greyhill dual concentric optical encoders.Achim

I want really thank you all for your replies!!I feel that i'm between good friends, as all of you help each other to start or expand his plans for our common hobby in FS.Thanks a lot, i will try to find a solution with RE11, as those in flightdecksolutions from Grayhill are very very expensive (85$) for my budget and also i'm not so good to make "custom" made switches :-hangOne gear lever i'm trying to make two weeks now, and i have much work to do!!Kalimera from Athens :-)Eddie

Jim sorry to insist in the same thing, but i need to take them, step by step please.First in the same link page http://www.switchchannel.com/products/encoder/re11/index.htm i can't see the -AF2CS but only the -AF2AS part number. Also in the ordering information table they don't explain the letter -A what is.Second about the deck A & B. As i'm very bad in my electronics knowledge i can "read" these things, so you mean the Figure1:Output Signal Format? From there i can understand they have two decks?In this way i turn the same axis and make two signals? (when simple turning the axis on type of signal and when turning while pushing it produces another, or the push fuction simple change the output signal and i don't have to keep pushing?)Sorry but you are the only who can help me to make the order!!Best regardsEddie Armaos

Or you can just put two rotaries next to each other - many older radios have that and it works just great. Everything does not *have* to look exactly like that photo on airliners.net you found.. :)Especially on general aviation planes there's a WILD variety of gear in the panel. Look at this example that is an old Cessna 195.http://tigert.gimp.org/vatsim/albums/tomahawk/aag.sized.jpgThe radio in the top middle you recognize, it is the familiar bendix/king, below it is naturally the transponder. Then there's probably the ADF. It's fully manual (no digits display, only approximate scale so you need to tune it while listening to the ID beeping), the second old timer thing is the COM2 on the right, I think it works pretty much the same. A lot of older planes have radios that use two knobs, one for the MHz part and another for the fraction. So dont let the lack of concentric rotaries stop you. Two knobs will do the job just fine. You can always fix it later if you find something, dont get blocked by that.That plane on the pic is still in active use, not many Cessnas have a radial engine these days, it sounds like a half DC-3 when it starts up :)The point is, whatever *works* is fine. Screw the exact replica look if you want something functional and have trouble finding right looking exact parts for reasonable price. Arent you building the cockpit to enchange the simulator experience anyway, or for posting photos on your website to get praise from others in the hobby? :-)The looks are nice, but what is the real important thing at least for me, is the fact that the knobs and switches are in the right places, they feel right and *work*.Best,Tuomas

Tuomas,of course, if i will not find the "right looking exact parts" in a reasonable cost, i will make them with two rotaries, one for Mhz and on for fractions. I will not have/want to pay 85$ X 7 for having the same feeling with real aircraft, with those excellent optical encoders for heavy duty.But before take a decision, i'm looking the subject from differnet agles to find the best one, for performance and value :-)No i'm not building a super cockpit, i don't have also the space for this, just making small steps to have, as you said, the "feeling"!! All i want to make is the NAVs & COMs, an EFIS with MCP, a throttle kit and finally the FMC. ThanksEddie

Hi Jim,Would it be possible to post a digital photo to explain to us. I myself have little knowledge of electronics but can build what I see.ThanksDavid

Yep.We did them from two regular rotary switches. FSBUS can use normal 12-step rotary switches as rotary inputs. Actually any number of steps that is dividable by 4.So I am trying to find out a pic. Basically one needs two cheap plastic 12-step rotaries and from one, you need to drill out the 6mm shaft completely. It needs to be disassembled first. Then you replace the shaft with a equally long piece of 6mm metal tube. Aluminium is what we used. So that you get a hole through the switch. The switch has two ball bearings and a spring that goes through the shaft to give the "step tension", that spring needs to be cut in two short pieces because now the aluminium goes throuhg the thing where there used to be a hole trough the shaft.From this:()//////////()to this:()///| |///() The tube is in the middle.http://tigert.gimp.org/vatsim/cockpit-stuff/knobs7.jpgSo basically now you have the same functional rotary switch, but there is a 4mm hole through it (the aluminium 6mm tube had 1mm thick walls, so the center is 4mm wide)Then you take another switch, and drill a 4mm hole into its shaft, take 4mm metal rod and glue it in. So you get a 4mm shaft on that switch.Then you push the 4mm shaft *through* the entire other switch and fasten those switches toghether so that they cannot move individually. A |____| -bracket works fine in this case.Then you fasten that whole bundle to your panel.http://tigert.gimp.org/vatsim/cockpit-stuff/knobs5.pngThis is hard to explain, but I hope you get the idea.Tuomas