>Hi Tuomas,>Nice work!!!>That TFT looks like a PSOne screen. Is that right?Yep, like I mention above too :-)>if so, how did you manage to remove it from it's main board?>How did you replace the ribbon cable ?I did not replace the ribbon cable - you can see the crude cut on the pcboard - that's where the ribbon goes from the front of the PCB to the back - and hopefully there attachs to the PSOne's own pcboard via the connector (it has a small micro-sub-miniature-tiny-microscopic flat cable connector on the round pcboard)The LCD itself is not really fixed to the board at all - just the backlight power is via a pair of wires, the only problem is the flat cable. If one could lengthen it somehow, it'd be great. But I think I can still fit everything behind the pcb, just need to build some kind of a "rig" that I can attach the big pcboard into so it doesnt break the cable.The encoders are from mouser, searching google for "ESD0D-S00-GC0006" gives it as the first hit (friendly hint :))I use TV-out currently - its not perfect quality but works good enough.//tuomas

I will be using this TFT for FMC, and I'm thinking of the same thing.How to find compatible flatcable to lengthen it.We should find someone at Sony to cut and send us a few meters... :LOLGeorge DorkofikisAthens, Greecehttp://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.pnghttp://www.precisionmanuals.com/images/forum/betaimg.jpg

>I will be using this TFT for FMC, and I'm thinking of the>same thing.>How to find compatible flatcable to lengthen it.>We should find someone at Sony to cut and send us a few>meters... :LOL>>George Dorkofikis>Athens, Greece>http://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.png>http://www.precisionmanuals.com/images/forum/betaimg.jpgSearch fds forum for "psone holder" pics, Peter had a nice way to mount these things.//T

I agree... But quite an expensive one!!!!George DorkofikisAthens, Greecehttp://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.pnghttp://www.precisionmanuals.com/images/forum/betaimg.jpg

The main board connector seems to be an FFC/Molex miniature connector.While browsing through the digikey catalogue I found these:http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/128988.jpghttp://forums.avsim.net/user_files/128989.jpgI don't know the spacing between the pins (until I receive my own screen), but I think this might help us to provide some extra space.They come in a variety of lengths from 2" to 12".I wonder if those can also be found in local stores. Those items are pretty exotic!George DorkofikisAthens, Greecehttp://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.pnghttp://www.precisionmanuals.com/images/forum/betaimg.jpg

>The main board connector seems to be an FFC/Molex miniature>connector.>While browsing through the digikey catalogue I found these:>>http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/128988.jpg>http://forums.avsim.net/user_files/128989.jpg>>I don't know the spacing between the pins (until I receive my>own screen), but I think this might help us to provide some>extra space.>They come in a variety of lengths from 2" to 12".>>I wonder if those can also be found in local stores. Those>items are pretty exotic!>>George Dorkofikis>Athens, Greece>http://online.vatsimindicators.net/811520/1704.png>http://www.precisionmanuals.com/images/forum/betaimg.jpg>interesting. The problem is, there should be a connector on one end of the jumper, since the flat strip is fixed to the LCD module, but theres a connector on the pcboard. It seems very impossible to solder those since the whole thing is plastic and thus would melt.Re: FDS holder - sure, the ready product is expensive, but I meant that good ideas are free ;)//Tuomas

That is beautiful. Ever think about offering that as a kit?

If the "flat cable" is a brownish red and semi-transparent, chances are it's kapton and will not melt when soldering.

>If the "flat cable" is a brownish red and semi-transparent,>chances are it's kapton and will not melt when soldering. Yeah, but I rather not wish to be the first person to try it :-) However it IS brownish and semi-transparent like you said.Plus, it's _very_ very small pitch for the wires, so soldering it, even if it wouldnt melt, would be close to impossible without specialized tools.//Tuomas

>That is beautiful. >>Ever think about offering that as a kit? No, I think we have seen more than enough examples of what that would lead to :-) I rather finish my own sim and enjoy flying it..//Tuomas

Hi Tumos,I suppose those PCB boards are also from Mouser? Can you post the part numbers please?thankssrini

>Hi Tumos,>>I suppose those PCB boards are also from Mouser? Can you post>the part numbers please?Do you mean the raw copper-plated PCB board? It's fiberglass, and I am pretty sure all of the electronics stores have those.Good thing is, they usually come in 160mm wide boards which is pretty close to the width for the GA planes' avionics bay.See mouser catalog page 1506, maybe the "FR-4 Composite" is what I used, but I am not sure. You probably should just call them. Also, search google for "pcb etching" etcetera, this stuff has a LOT of information in the net since people do boards for electronics projects all over the globe, much more than just cockpit builders.Basically there are two ways: You can get the "breadboard" which has a grid of holes in usually 0.1 inch (or 2.54 mm) grid, and various patterns with the copper - some have just round solder pads around each hole, others have strips on one direction etc. You can fit your components to such grid and then design the front plate accordingly, to fit. And then solder wires on the back to connect to your I/O hardware.OR you can do like I did - etch the board and drill holes to match your front panel design. This way you can also etch the wires, and get a flat cable connector on the edge of the board - directly into IOCARDS or FSBUS. Its tricky to think about the connections and it can get complex, but so far mine have been pretty simple, in any case I am just learning this stuff myself as well. It just feels like a smart way to do these, since you get a nice holder for all the switches combined with the wiring.//Tuomas

Hi Tumos,Thanks and appreciate that detailed reply. Yes i meant the raw copper boards. I too like the idea of pcb behind panels ever since i saw some IOCards users doing it. You certainly are an inspiration to try my hand at them. Makes it clean for adding the resistors etc needed for IOCards and yes flat cable connector at the edge is irresistable :-). thankssrini

Yesterday night, i tryed and i removed the cable behind the PCB and i split in two pieces the tft monitor from pcb.You should take care to pull-up the brown small piece to release the cable and be very very easy to take it out.I was lucky and when re-connect them later, everything was working :-)Eddie ArmaosAthens-Greece

TuomasI have to ask....... how do you paint the engraved lettering on your aluminum panels with such nice results????ThanksGus