Hi guys!Four questions:1) Everytime I select a different altitude the aircraft immediately starts descending or climbing. Does the arm altitude work for you?2) Is there a way to have the course needle from the hsi automatically sync with the rxp gns units?3) Is it possible to install rxp's flightline T & N gauges to the panel?4) Have you tried magneto checks, do you actually see a drop on the rpm gauge? Thank you in advance,

Hi guys!1) Everytime I select a different altitude the aircraft immediately starts descending or climbing. Does the arm altitude work for you?Thank you in advance,

I do not own this aircraft, but assuming the KFC225 autopilot is the same as the Baron,selecting a new altitude while in ALT mode will automatically arm the autopilot to seek the newaltitude..Here is a page from the real Bendix King manual that seems to say the same thing..BTW - Altitude Alerter is not modeled.

I do not own this aircraft, but assuming the KFC225 autopilot is the same as the Baron,selecting a new altitude while in ALT mode will automatically arm the autopilot to seek the newaltitude..Here is a page from the real Bendix King manual that seems to say the same thing..BTW - Altitude Alerter is not modeled.

Thanks Bert, seams to be modelled correctly then..., my fault...I was comparing it with the Bonanza's F33 autopilot ( while wacthing a few cross country flights from aviator pro) and thaught they were the same... :(

4) Have you tried magneto checks, do you actually see a drop on the rpm gauge?

Yes, but due to the turbo lag it's not immediately visible (but immediately audible expecially when switching back to 'both'

Yes, but due to the turbo lag it's not immediately visible (but immediately audible expecially when switching back to 'both'

Thank you Bernt I will pay more attention tonight...I was reading that it is also reccomended to do the live mag check by swicthing off both magnetos very quickly at low rpm's then back on..., is that a common practise in the real world? I know some advise against that because of possible engine damage....is that true?Thanks again...

I've heard that a few times as well but NEVER did that IRL, don't think that this is a good idea and it doesn't make sense at all.

What that does is check for a shorted mag. If the engine doesn't shut off, then you would have a constantly "live" engine, which can be dangerous for ground personnel if they happen to pull the prop through while the aircraft is sitting on the ground without the engine running. However, I never liked the practice either. You can get some really spiffy backfires doing that, which can harm the engine. Best not to do it.

What that does is check for a shorted mag. If the engine doesn't shut off, then you would have a constantly "live" engine, which can be dangerous for ground personnel if they happen to pull the prop through while the aircraft is sitting on the ground without the engine running. However, I never liked the practice either. You can get some really spiffy backfires doing that, which can harm the engine. Best not to do it.

It's interesting to know that it is not a common thing you would do in the real world.Thanks guys...one more piece of knowlegde aquired.

I tried to pay more attention and I did see a very tiny drop and rise, if you look at the lines of the rpm gauge it drops about 3/4 of the space in between two lines, maybe a little less... :( One more thing guys...I noticed that even a lower speeds (from 60 to 70 IAS) the plane always goes down with the nose wheel first. If I try to raise the nose it goes into a stall and eventually lands but from a few videos I checked on youtube I saw landings where done at around 80 IAS without stalling, or just a little less. At that speed it would be impossible to flare this thing correctly! :(

The mags in this machine are pretty good, and that is true of any real airplane where the mags may be relatively new. You want no more than 150 rpm drop on either mag, but they are very often much less than that. Also, instruments in FSX do not react as fast as they do IRL, so you won't see much of a drop. What you are seeing is not far off normal, and as each airplane is a bit different, I wouldn't worry about that.Just one more quick note on the shorted mag check - I did used to do that now and again (forgot all about that) but it was as I was shutting down and I'd do it at minimum idle so I wouldn't get the backfire. Doing it at run-up rpm's to me was not healthy for the engine, nor required. In FSX it's not necessary at all since mags don't fail in FSX.On your speeds, 60 to 70 would be pretty slow for this airplane. And, if you have gear/people in the front seats only, you could be rather nose-heavy to begin with, so yeah, getting the nose up in the flare would be an issue. At 60 you are really close to stalling anyway, especially if you don't have full flaps, so any abrupt backpressure on the yoke may cause it to stall. If you do have full flaps, you'll have a nose-down tendency anyway because of the extra drag and you can run out of elevator as you start to flare, which will cause you to land on your nosewheel. Use 80 IAS for approach. The "feel" of this airplane is correct (from what I can tell - I've flown 206's lots but not the 210, but they are very similar in handling). The trick is to start your flare a bit early, and do it more slowly so you get a smooth transition to level flight about 5 feet off the runway. You want to come back on the stick at a rate that doesn't allow the aircraft to balloon, but not so slowly that you drive it into the ground nose first. It just takes practice. Also, try it with 2 notches of flap for a while until you get the hang of it. Unless you are landing on a short strip (under 2500 ft at first, and as you get better that number will get smaller), you really don't need full flap. Once you get the hang of that, start using full flaps and get the feel of that. It does take practice, but so does the real thing. Cessna flaps are very effective and they take getting used to, including preventing too much ballooning. Don't worry if you get a little ballooning - that's no big deal. Lastly, as you start to flare, start trimming nose up so that will assist you in the flare. Just be ready to trim nose down again if you have to go around, but you should be able to overrride the pressure from the nose-up trim as you climb out on the go-around and start getting the airplane cleaned up again.Give that a try and let us know how it goes. The airplane really does have a very good "feel" to it and I think is very accurate dynamics wise. In fact, to me, Carenado has really nailed the dynamics on the 182Q, 206 and now the 210 (I'd be hard pressed to decide which of those 3 I like the most, but the 210 is probably now my favourite of all the aircraft I have mostly because of how it handles). Anyway, it just takes getting used to, like all airplanes. It's not wrong, it's just different, and one of the things a pilot must do when transitioning to a new (for him/her) airplane is to get used to how that machine handles in all flight regimes. That's why you always get checked out by a pilot with time on that machine before you go flogging off into the wild blue by yourself :(. Hope that helps.

The mags in this machine are pretty good, and that is true of any real airplane where the mags may be relatively new. You want no more than 150 rpm drop on either mag, but they are very often much less than that. Also, instruments in FSX do not react as fast as they do IRL, so you won't see much of a drop. What you are seeing is not far off normal, and as each airplane is a bit different, I wouldn't worry about that.Just one more quick note on the shorted mag check - I did used to do that now and again (forgot all about that) but it was as I was shutting down and I'd do it at minimum idle so I wouldn't get the backfire. Doing it at run-up rpm's to me was not healthy for the engine, nor required. In FSX it's not necessary at all since mags don't fail in FSX.On your speeds, 60 to 70 would be pretty slow for this airplane. And, if you have gear/people in the front seats only, you could be rather nose-heavy to begin with, so yeah, getting the nose up in the flare would be an issue. At 60 you are really close to stalling anyway, especially if you don't have full flaps, so any abrupt backpressure on the yoke may cause it to stall. If you do have full flaps, you'll have a nose-down tendency anyway because of the extra drag and you can run out of elevator as you start to flare, which will cause you to land on your nosewheel. Use 80 IAS for approach. The "feel" of this airplane is correct (from what I can tell - I've flown 206's lots but not the 210, but they are very similar in handling). The trick is to start your flare a bit early, and do it more slowly so you get a smooth transition to level flight about 5 feet off the runway. You want to come back on the stick at a rate that doesn't allow the aircraft to balloon, but not so slowly that you drive it into the ground nose first. It just takes practice. Also, try it with 2 notches of flap for a while until you get the hang of it. Unless you are landing on a short strip (under 2500 ft at first, and as you get better that number will get smaller), you really don't need full flap. Once you get the hang of that, start using full flaps and get the feel of that. It does take practice, but so does the real thing. Cessna flaps are very effective and they take getting used to, including preventing too much ballooning. Don't worry if you get a little ballooning - that's no big deal. Lastly, as you start to flare, start trimming nose up so that will assist you in the flare. Just be ready to trim nose down again if you have to go around, but you should be able to overrride the pressure from the nose-up trim as you climb out on the go-around and start getting the airplane cleaned up again.Give that a try and let us know how it goes. The airplane really does have a very good "feel" to it and I think is very accurate dynamics wise. In fact, to me, Carenado has really nailed the dynamics on the 182Q, 206 and now the 210 (I'd be hard pressed to decide which of those 3 I like the most, but the 210 is probably now my favourite of all the aircraft I have mostly because of how it handles). Anyway, it just takes getting used to, like all airplanes. It's not wrong, it's just different, and one of the things a pilot must do when transitioning to a new (for him/her) airplane is to get used to how that machine handles in all flight regimes. That's why you always get checked out by a pilot with time on that machine before you go flogging off into the wild blue by yourself :(. Hope that helps.

Hi Beaver Driver thank you for the insights! I know those dead mag checks are done at idle and at the end of the flight, it just doesn't seam a very common pratice IRL, a lot of different opinions about it, and thanks for yours. Probably wouldn't do them myself either...I will try approaching at 80 knots and starting the flare earlier and let you know how it goes...I just did and it works very nice, thanks for the tip!I don't own the 206 or 182Q, I have the 182 RG and it does fly nice!