I really can't recommend an air cooler less than something around D14 capability for Ivy Bridge if you want to overclock beyond 4.4GHz. I have 2 friends that built Ivy Bridge systems on my advice recently, both have very poor temps with the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo at 4.4GHz and beyond. Intel really screwed the pooch on the thermal paste with Ivy Bridge. De-lidding the processor and replacing with IC Diamond drops temps by 10C during stress tests, with the same cooler, as I have done and tested on both of these systems. Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra drops temps even further (can't quantify yet, need to test with same cooler), as I have done on my own system. One of my friends has some of this paste on the way, and will test with my old H100 cooler and compare temps to the same cooler with IC Diamond. In a couple days here I will be able to definitively say that better thermal paste is in fact the key to managing temps on Ivy Bridge.

 

If you're not going to replace the thermal paste under the IHS, and you want to overclock, and you want to make sure your system is good for actual use and not just a quick benchmark run or two (like some extreme overclockers), you *need* the best cooler you can reasonably afford and fit into your case. Going one step further, if you want to get the most out of your overclock and have reasonable temps as well, you *need* to replace the thermal paste under the IHS.

you *need* to replace the thermal paste under the IHS.

 

I agree with everything you say. I've been watching videos on youtube showing the technique and I am horrified that has to be done, the guy is going at the chip with a pocket knife. And after you get the metal off, how do you refasten it, hot glue? Why is it that Intel, and I know they aren't stupid, put the wrong paste inside the chip?

 

Regards;

 

Fritz

Don't use a pocket knife, people that do have no clue what they're doing. A simple razor blade (just the blade) being worked in slowly at each edge and then simply pushed with the force of your thumbs is enough to do the job. I've done 3 now, took about 5 minutes each on average. You don't need to re-fasten, the thermal paste has suction and the socket retention clip pushes down on the IHS, it's the perfect mod because there's no visible side effect other than drastically reduced temps and greater OC potential.

 

Update: my friend got his Liquid Ultra in a day early and swapped it out: temps dropped 23C compared to IC Diamond. That's in addition to the 7C he saved with an H100 and another 10C saved with IC Diamond. 40C cooler with de-lid + Liquid Ultra + H100 compared to a Coolermaster 212 Evo and stock pastes. If you want your Ivy to run cool, de-lid it and get yourself a tube of Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra.

40C cooler with de-lid + Liquid Ultra + H100 compared to a Coolermaster 212 Evo and stock pastes.

 

you re-install the plate which is held down by the clip on the mobo. you spread the liquid ultra on the die or all over and squish it down when you fasten the cooler. Also, do you use the same liquid ultra between the cooler and the plate or something else. How do you clean off the old OEM paste before you apply the liquid ultra? Guy in video wiped it off with his thumb nail.

 

how about this for starters

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16835106190

you re-install the plate which is held down by the clip on the mobo. you spread the liquid ultra on the die or all over and squish it down when you fasten the cooler. Also, do you use the same liquid ultra between the cooler and the plate or something else. How do you clean off the old OEM paste before you apply the liquid ultra? Guy in video wiped it off with his thumb nail.

 

how about this for starters

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16835106190

 

Liquid Ultra is applied with a small paint brush which is supplied in the packaging. it is very thin, and spreads finely. It truly is a liquid metal (Gallium). Don't be hasty with the paint brush, try to get it just on the CPU die. It won't hurt anything on the packaging around the die, but the outer edge of the packaging has contacts which could be shorted and this could be bad.

 

You clean off the old paste with rubbing alcohol, until it is all gone.

 

You can use Liquid Ultra been the IHS and the heatsink, if you like. I did, as did my friend. The problem is getting the heat into the IHS in the first place though, using Liquid Ultra on top of the IHS isn't nearly as critical.

 

I haven't used that cooler, and for the money I'd recommend you build your own with a cheaper DIY kit like those from XSPC using the RS line of radiators. For $20 more than what you have listed there you can get a much higher quality kit like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14182/ex-wat-181/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html I went with a kit using the RX (double thick) radiator, and am glad I did but I also wanted to cool my GPU so I needed a big radiator and a strong pump for it.

I haven't used that cooler, and for the money I'd recommend you build your own with a cheaper DIY kit like those from XSPC using the RS line of radiators.

 

I am attracted to the DIY solution, however, the closed system is also attractive due to the ease of mobility after installation.