Sir,I have flown the Tinmouse twice now and truly enjoy flying her. My first flight was a short hop from Boise to Salt Lake City and went without a hitch, although I had no TCAS, but a separate thread has solved that issue, and did not use the PDCS because I hadn't read that section of the manual. I did use the CIVA-INS and it too worked flawlessly with the SP177 Panel. I flew at FL250 and mach 0.74Tonight I tried KCMH to KBNA using the CIVA-INS, the PDCS, and a slightly higher altitude or FL320. At some point between 18,000 and 20,000 a very annoying alarm started going off. I did a system scan of the 6-pack caution panel, the overhead, and basically, the cockpit as a whole. Airspeed was fine and climb rate was good. The alarm was so loud it was drowning out other sounds. It seemed like there was a voice trying to state what the alarm was for, but I could not understand it. It may have just been my "brain" wishing for help and hearing subdued background noise. It took me awhile to notice the amber "AUTO FAIL" light on the overhead (Gauge 73). I had Flight Altitude set for 25,000 from last night's flight and forgot to change it, but I wasn't even up to FL250 yet. Land Alt was set at 4100 (for KSLC), again, forgot to change it. Cabing Altitude was set to 6000. I tried "pressing" the silver reset switch (Item 74 on the Overhead), but the amber light stayed lit and the warning Klaxon continued to sound. The green "Standby" gauge was also lit. I tried adjusting the pressure altitude manually, but nothing I did seemed to work. I switched to manual, and again, nothing worked. Throughout all this airspeed and altitude were fine. I never could figure out how to correct the problem nor shut off that annoying klaxon. The AC PAck/bleed air warning lights were on as well but tripping the reset (Gauge 70) shut those off. I did a cold and dark start so maybe my settings for the packs was wrong after engine start, I don't know. The whole APU Bleed Air/Engine Bleed Air/AC Paks thing is a mystery to me. I know enough to get a cold and dark aircraft started, but ....I probably "virtually" killed all my PAX and the flight crew as well by messing with the issue too long instead of descending and diverting immediately.Advice?Randy

Sir,I have flown the Tinmouse twice now and truly enjoy flying her. My first flight was a short hop from Boise to Salt Lake City and went without a hitch, although I had no TCAS, but a separate thread has solved that issue, and did not use the PDCS because I hadn't read that section of the manual. I did use the CIVA-INS and it too worked flawlessly with the SP177 Panel. I flew at FL250 and mach 0.74Tonight I tried KCMH to KBNA using the CIVA-INS, the PDCS, and a slightly higher altitude or FL320. At some point between 18,000 and 20,000 a very annoying alarm started going off. I did a system scan of the 6-pack caution panel, the overhead, and basically, the cockpit as a whole. Airspeed was fine and climb rate was good. The alarm was so loud it was drowning out other sounds. It seemed like there was a voice trying to state what the alarm was for, but I could not understand it. It may have just been my "brain" wishing for help and hearing subdued background noise. It took me awhile to notice the amber "AUTO FAIL" light on the overhead (Gauge 73). I had Flight Altitude set for 25,000 from last night's flight and forgot to change it, but I wasn't even up to FL250 yet. Land Alt was set at 4100 (for KSLC), again, forgot to change it. Cabing Altitude was set to 6000. I tried "pressing" the silver reset switch (Item 74 on the Overhead), but the amber light stayed lit and the warning Klaxon continued to sound. The green "Standby" gauge was also lit. I tried adjusting the pressure altitude manually, but nothing I did seemed to work. I switched to manual, and again, nothing worked. Throughout all this airspeed and altitude were fine. I never could figure out how to correct the problem nor shut off that annoying klaxon. The AC PAck/bleed air warning lights were on as well but tripping the reset (Gauge 70) shut those off. I did a cold and dark start so maybe my settings for the packs was wrong after engine start, I don't know. The whole APU Bleed Air/Engine Bleed Air/AC Paks thing is a mystery to me. I know enough to get a cold and dark aircraft started, but ....I probably "virtually" killed all my PAX and the flight crew as well by messing with the issue too long instead of descending and diverting immediately.Advice?Randy

1. Follow the checklist and set up the controller before engine start.2. Make sure the bleed valves are turned on--this add-on won't pressurize the airplane if there's no source of air...and neither will the real thing!3. Once there's air coming in, you can try setting the flight altitude to a level above the jet's current altitude if climbing or below it if descending, and then press the silver reset knob (click on the center of the alt knob).4. If all else fails, select standby or manual mode and get it under control manually.5. See the FAQ re: silencing the cabin alt warning horn and for other important facts about the TinMouse II.Merry ChristmasBob ScottColonel, USAF (ret)ATP IMEL Gulfstream II-III-IV-VColorado Springs, CO

Sir,I have flown the Tinmouse twice now and truly enjoy flying her. My first flight was a short hop from Boise to Salt Lake City and went without a hitch, although I had no TCAS, but a separate thread has solved that issue, and did not use the PDCS because I hadn't read that section of the manual. I did use the CIVA-INS and it too worked flawlessly with the SP177 Panel. I flew at FL250 and mach 0.74Tonight I tried KCMH to KBNA using the CIVA-INS, the PDCS, and a slightly higher altitude or FL320. At some point between 18,000 and 20,000 a very annoying alarm started going off. I did a system scan of the 6-pack caution panel, the overhead, and basically, the cockpit as a whole. Airspeed was fine and climb rate was good. The alarm was so loud it was drowning out other sounds. It seemed like there was a voice trying to state what the alarm was for, but I could not understand it. It may have just been my "brain" wishing for help and hearing subdued background noise. It took me awhile to notice the amber "AUTO FAIL" light on the overhead (Gauge 73). I had Flight Altitude set for 25,000 from last night's flight and forgot to change it, but I wasn't even up to FL250 yet. Land Alt was set at 4100 (for KSLC), again, forgot to change it. Cabing Altitude was set to 6000. I tried "pressing" the silver reset switch (Item 74 on the Overhead), but the amber light stayed lit and the warning Klaxon continued to sound. The green "Standby" gauge was also lit. I tried adjusting the pressure altitude manually, but nothing I did seemed to work. I switched to manual, and again, nothing worked. Throughout all this airspeed and altitude were fine. I never could figure out how to correct the problem nor shut off that annoying klaxon. The AC PAck/bleed air warning lights were on as well but tripping the reset (Gauge 70) shut those off. I did a cold and dark start so maybe my settings for the packs was wrong after engine start, I don't know. The whole APU Bleed Air/Engine Bleed Air/AC Paks thing is a mystery to me. I know enough to get a cold and dark aircraft started, but ....I probably "virtually" killed all my PAX and the flight crew as well by messing with the issue too long instead of descending and diverting immediately.Advice?Randy

Hi ThereI had the same thing happen to me as well.And more by luck (I tried clicking everything to shut down the klaxon )I hit the ALT HORN switch( haven't got FS9 open at the moment but I am pretty sure its called that) Its just to the left of cabin pressure setting window ,and that finally shut it off.This was entirely my fault, I have since learnt a little more about the cabin pressure settings and have had no problems since.Andy

Hello RAndy,As Bob said, pleae be sure you have "bleed air" on AIR system on your aircraft. If you won't to listen cabin pressure alert horn (ALT HORN) you have to follow a few mandatory steps;After engine start;1- go to PACK panel (overhead) and switch ON both of ENG1 and ENG2 Bleed.APU BLEED OFF, you will see pressure (PSI)gauges increase.It means you released pressure air on your systems."Bleed air" is pressurized air which is comes from engine compressor. Aircraft systems are works with hydrolics, pressurized air and electrical drivens. Bleed air does work for cabin pressure and air conditioning.2-now you can L and R PACKS ON for cabin air conditioning3-before taxi, you have to sure correct altitude and cabin pressure on your PRESSURIZATION PANEL...it is very important.-set your landing altitude as your current altitude. When you reached cruise level ,change LAND ALTITUDE to your destination airport's elevation.-set your cruise altitude-set your cabin altitude by placardexample for FL250(25000ft)=3.4(3400ft)-now you can switch pressurize mode GND to FLTdon't change other knobs or switches unless if you have cabin pressure problem.You are ready to taxi and takeoff. Belive me cabin pressure system does work as well. If you follow this steps about cabin pressure, you never hear ALT HORN.

1. Follow the checklist and set up the controller before engine start.2. Make sure the bleed valves are turned on--this add-on won't pressurize the airplane if there's no source of air...and neither will the real thing!3. Once there's air coming in, you can try setting the flight altitude to a level above the jet's current altitude if climbing or below it if descending, and then press the silver reset knob (click on the center of the alt knob).4. If all else fails, select standby or manual mode and get it under control manually.5. See the FAQ re: silencing the cabin alt warning horn and for other important facts about the TinMouse II.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help. I had the same thing happen again tonight, but for a different reason. I'll try to explain. Since the KCMH to KBNA flight I flew from KBNA to KBHM with no problem, using the checklist and following it religiously.Tonight I flew from KBHM to KDAL and really got careless and forgot to change the FLT/GND switch to FLT before takeoff. I just happened to be on the overhead view when the Pressure Altitude Warning happened and I saw the "AUTO FAIL" light illuminate and the Alt Horn sounded. Without benefit of an abnormal ops checklist, I simply switched from GND to FLT, pressed the item #74 Silver Reset switch and then pressed item #54, the Alt Horn Cutoff Switch. I did not try to get it under control manually as Bob suggested in Line 4 of the above quote because quite franklly I do not know how. Looks like some late night reading for me tonight. Wish I could find an abnormal ops checklist. I know, I know, follow the Normal Ops Checklist and the Abnormal Ops never rear their ugly head. The "AUTO FAIL" light stayed illuminated for the rest of the flight, cabin pressure went to 30,000 feet (small inner dial of Gauge 53), Differential Pressure (same gauge-outer dial) went to 0 which I assume was a pressure hull breach, and nothing i could do would silence that blasted horn. I left clicked the Cutoff Horn Switch, I right clicked it. I repeatedly clicked it, I dang near tried pressing it on my monitor with my finger. Man that thing is annoying.I think I could solve my problem in two ways. First, by following the checklist so problems don't appear. and second, when I forget something if I could just get the Alt Warning Horn to shut up I can focus on the problem at hand, which is pressure altitude differential. That thing stresses me out (and is really, really loud and can be heard throughout the house) so I can't concentrate on solving my problem.By the way, here is what I have from my checklists:

After for Start

ELETRICAL GENERATORS ON PITOT HEAT AS REQUIRED ANTI-ICEAS REQUIRED SYSTEM A PUMPS ONAIR COND & PRESS PACK(S) ON, FLT APUAS REQUIRED START LEVERSIDLE DETENT GROUND EQUIPMENTREMOVEDSHOUDER HARNESSADJUSTED

I understand turning both packs on for AC. Before Start I have the APU on, APU Bleed and Bleed 1 and Bleed 2 on, and 1 Pack, usually the left since I start the right engine first. After Start I turn the APU Bleed Air off and leave Bleed 1 and Bleed 2 on as well as turn on the right Pack. (There's that "FLT" item as well that I overlooked tonight.) The thing that I see missing is the position of the Isolation Valve. To start I move it to Open and after Engine Start I move it to Auto.Sorry to be such a pain, but I have been flying the T'Mouse to the exclusion of all my payware aircraft because this Bird is awesome with a realism level that to me surpasses many, many payware aircraft. She is a Wonder, Col Scott, and I love flying her. When I treat her right she is amazing. When I get careless she is unforgiving (back to that Alt Warning Horn again).Thanks so MuchRandy "Ramjett53" Tyndall

Randy; You shouldn't have any of the AC packs running while starting the engines. After start, you should have both bleeds on (and APU bleed off) and both packs on. In some cases where takeoff performance is marginal, the packs are actually turned off for takeoff (to maximize thrust), and then turned back on in the climb. The "FLT" switch should not cause a failure to pressurize once airborne...what is does is put a slight (~0.25-0.30 PSID) pressure in the hull during the taxi for takeoff, mostly to get positive pressure against the seals and doors so things aren't rattling around. But it provides you an opportunity to make sure things are on-track...when you switch to FLT, you should see the cabin rate go to around -300 fpm, and if you don't, it's a big clue that the bleeds/packs aren't set up right. In the air, if you have forgotten something or didn't get set up right, the first corrective action ahould be to get the bleeds and packs on, make sure the flt altitude is set to a level above the jet's current level, and the landing elevation/cabin alt targets set as appropriate. Press reset, and it *should* start to move towards the cabin press target. But if that fails, then rotate the mode controller from "AUTO" to "STANDBY" mode on the press controller, and the cabin alt should start moving towards the cabin target at a rate you can then control with the standby rate controller. Your last (emergency) line of defense is "manual mode"--by rotating the mode controller to either the manual AC or DC position (those are the two power sources available to control the outflow valves) you can use the manual switch to open/close the valves and control the pressurization cycle that way, although you'll have the pax looking for you after the flight to get your name for that nasty letter to the home office...RegardsBob ScottColonel, USAF (ret)ATP IMEL Gulfstream II-III-IV-VColorado Springs, CO

Many Thanks, Col Scott. I've been doing some scenery modifications today so I will give it a go tomorrow and see if I can't get back in the air with the 732. Any idea why clicking the Alt Horn Sutoff Switch doesn't turn the Klaxon off. Perhaps because I have let the pressure situation get so far out of control that the horn can't reset?

Many Thanks, Col Scott. I've been doing some scenery modifications today so I will give it a go tomorrow and see if I can't get back in the air with the 732. Any idea why clicking the Alt Horn Sutoff Switch doesn't turn the Klaxon off. Perhaps because I have let the pressure situation get so far out of control that the horn can't reset?

Actually, As a result of your trials and tribulations. I've spent all afternoon on the pressurization system and, as a result, the master caution "sixpack" as well. Turns out when I converted the coding for the new audio engine, I did it in such a way that the looping horn sound was being triggered a bunch of times, which the new engine allows...the horn cutoff button was only killing off one of many simultaneously-running looping horn sounds, and there was no way you were getting it to turn off. Problem now solved.The other thing I don't like is a virtual pilot getting into a situation like that with no warning...I mean yes, you're supposed to run the checks and keep it from happening in the first place, but in the real world you'd have your ears popping like mad, the flight attendants whining like a C-5 engine at takeoff thrust, and you'd have a master caution light on the copilot side telling you there's something unhappy going on with the overhead panel (the press auto-fail light, to be specific). So I coded the blank spot on the captain's master caution six-pack to work like the OVHD light on the copilot side. It now illuminates when there's a warning on the overhead not captured by the other subsystem lights on the captain's six-pack. And I completely re-did the logic matrix for the master caution warning system while I was in there, so that most of the proper warnings are now being triggered in the master caution system when appropriate, and if a different light in the same subsystem comes on after the subsystem is put into "recall" mode, the light will illuminate again.So with V1.31 (which is right around the corner barring discovery of any heinous new bugs) there'll be plenty of warning that things are amiss, and a way out once things get noisy. Including a way to shut the horn off...So thanks for bringing it to my attention. Glad we could help each other out here. ;-)CheersBob ScottColonel, USAF (ret)ATP IMEL Gulfstream II-III-IV-VColorado Springs, CO

Thank you, sir, for the indepth explanantion of the pressure altitude controls. I also went to SmartCockpit website and read up on the real world operation (in the 733, they didn't list a 732) which you appear to have simulated to a tee!I guess we could look at my "trials and tribulations" as an "aircraft accident report" and your review of the system simulation as the NTSB Investigation and Accident Report complete with corrections, huh?Nice to know my "incompetence" has positive results. :( Thanks again, Col Scott. Looking forward to 1.31Randy