Hi. I need some help from you guys. I am flying the carenado f33 and while on rwy, it constantly veers left. I need to compensate like a madman to keep from going off the rwy. As soon as I lift the plane veers right. I have been tinkering with settings for hours but it's still the same. Wind and turbulence set to 0. No difference. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

To Swe_Richard,While you are on the ground, the steering is on the nose wheel, which makes it pretty touchy until you get enough speed up to get the nose off the ground and the rudder has enough authority to compensate. On my CH rudder pedals I have to be very light on the right rudder. I had to set the null point to about 30% to keep from over compensating with the right rudder particularly. Another thing try putting the throttle in slower, many people just push the throttle all the way in and you have problems when you do that. Try just putting enough throttle in to get the plane moving around 1000 rpm will do it, now when the nose starts swinging left, just ease onto the right rudder pedal, concentrate on holding it steady, when the nose sarts swinging right, increase the throttle a little bit, about 1500 rpm should do it, keep increasing untilt he nose starts left again, then just a very little rudder pedal, then a bit more throttle, by now you will be up to about 2000 rpm, the nose wheel will start getting lighter and the rudder is easier slowly increase the throtltle ease back on the yoke/stick and fly off at around 90 knots. Another thng have quite a bit of up trim, on the F33 bonanza sim until you are almost up to 9 above the U on the trim wheel. around 6 on the trim wheel, will do but I feel halfway between the U and 9 is better. I've been intending to ask GeofA where he trims but going up almost to 9 will give you a 90 knot climb rate. Once you are off the ground, get off the rudder pedals, relax the rudder pedals, once airborne, useing aileron trim is much more effective.Sounds complicated, but with practice, it gets easier. I don't remember from your other posts if you have rudder pedals, I hope you do, without pedals these things are exceedingly difficult.Good luck and keep practicing.

Edited January 5, 201214 yr by wb5okj

To Swe_Richard,While you are on the ground, the steering is on the nose wheel, which makes it pretty touchy until you get enough speed up to get the nose off the ground and the rudder has enough authority to compensate. On my CH rudder pedals I have to be very light on the right rudder. I had to set the null point to about 30% to keep from over compensating with the right rudder particularly. Another thing try putting the throttle in slower, many people just push the throttle all the way in and you have problems when you do that. Try just putting enough throttle in to get the plane moving around 1000 rpm will do it, now when the nose starts swinging left, just ease onto the right rudder pedal, concentrate on holding it steady, when the nose sarts swinging right, increase the throttle a little bit, about 1500 rpm should do it, keep increasing untilt he nose starts left again, then just a very little rudder pedal, then a bit more throttle, by now you will be up to about 2000 rpm, the nose wheel will start getting lighter and the rudder is easier slowly increase the throtltle ease back on the yoke/stick and fly off at around 90 knots. Another thng have quite a bit of up trim, on the F33 bonanza sim until you are almost up to 9 above the U on the trim wheel. around 6 on the trim wheel, will do but I feel halfway between the U and 9 is better. I've been intending to ask GeofA where he trims but going up almost to 9 will give you a 90 knot climb rate. Once you are off the ground, get off the rudder pedals, relax the rudder pedals, once airborne, useing aileron trim is much more effective.Sounds complicated, but with practice, it gets easier. I don't remember from your other posts if you have rudder pedals, I hope you do, without pedals these things are exceedingly difficult.Good luck and keep practicing.

+1 Aileron trim will solve this. Even if the plane does not have it, it will work.

I found out that rudder trim has something to do with it. Once I started fiddling with that it got a lot better. Still, I have to constantly adjust it as I fly along. It seems impossible for me to trim for straight flight (level is ok, though). Yup, I have rudder pedals. Like them alot. Thanks for the tips! Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

You have to use a combination of rudder trim and aileron trim. I put my eleverator trim on a rotary axis that is on my Saitek X53 throttle, and rudder trim on another rotary axis and left my aileron trim on a button, also haveboth trim centering on other buttons. This works much better for fine control, if you have the rotaries. I am fortunate to have both the CH Flight Sim Yoke which I use for actual flight control, then I use the Saitek for extra axis and buttons, works well. I find a little bit of rudder trim, then a little fine tuning with aileron trim works wel. In the sim aileron trim works in all of the planes whether the actual plane has it or not.

I'm just going to list what's suppose to happen, whether the sim model portrays it or not.GA airplanes with props turning clockwise (from the cockpit), have the engines canted to the right, to help offset the left turning tendencies. The vertical stab may also have an offset, to the fuselage centerline built in. If it doesn't, then it will require a trim tab or wedge on the rudder. Either a ground adjustable fixed tab like a Cessna 172, or an inflight adjustable rudder tab. There are also other methods, such as using bias springs to hold a constant pressure.Depending on the airplane and engine size, more or less right rudder is needed on the takeoff roll, as well as leaving the ground, to maintain a straight line. Most fixed rudder tabs are set for what's considered normal cruise speeds. Since they're fixed, they'll never be right on, all the time. You'll know that you need rudder trim, if the ball is off to one side in cruise. That means the aircraft is flying across the sky at an angle (yaw) instead of a straight line like an arrow. Yaw means drag. If there is not enough trim, then you'll just be stomping on the rudder pedal for a while. It's that ball, that gives you the distinction between rudder or aileron. Unfortunately, it usually takes a lot more rudder pressure to stay in trim, that it does aileron. We'll assume that pitch is trimmed out, as it can also require a fair amount of pressure if it isn't.Aileron trim, if you have it, is great for passenger & fuel loads. You can balance the plane for hands off perfection. That's what it amounts too; rudder trim for yaw, when the ball is out of the center....and aileron trim to counter banking from one side or the other.I'll tell you about the building and test flying of my Van's RV. The engine is canted to the right. My RV has a vertical stab that is straight to the fuselage centerline. When I first flew it, it had a noticeable yaw to the left in cruise flight. The pressure was so heavy to counteract it, that I just let it yaw for a while. All it took, was a small "fixed" rudder tab about five inches long, and 1.5 inches deep, to counteract all of this pressure. Before the tab, I used a small wood wedge, that was taped on. Newer models use the offset vertical stab, that I mentioned above. I also installed an electric aileron trim tab, which is operated along with the elevator, from a hatswitch on the joystick.L.Adamson

Edited January 6, 201214 yr by LAdamson

Yep-put the throttle to full...gradually....and kick in right rudder-add more as the airspeed increases. One area imho xplane has it right!An old salt told me a great story. He had a client at a small grass field in Michigan-he would get to the end of the runway-try to turn around to the right from the small runup pad-and always have to shut down-get out, and turn the plane by hand.The old salt told him-turn left-the turning forces will help you-he never had to get out again...I once was in an fbo on one of my trips that had pictures of a cracked up p51 on the wall. I was remarking to my flying partner about the shots and a guy behind us said "I am the dummy that did that".Short story-he bought the plane-had no experience or instruction-taxied to the runway and gave it full throttle.Went right off the side into a ditch....

When I was rentng planes in Grand Prairie TX. nearly every C172 I got had the permanent rudder trim tab straightened. I saw several times someone at the back of the plane usually doing a pre flight, straigten the tab back to the left to keep it centered. Didn't do any good to tell them what it was for, people can't stand to see what they percieve to be an imbalance I suppose.He was lucky that P51 didn't nose over at the same time. Good advertisement for a cockpit checkoutmaybe?

When I was rentng planes in Grand Prairie TX. nearly every C172 I got had the permanent rudder trim tab straightened. I saw several times someone at the back of the plane usually doing a pre flight, straigten the tab back to the left to keep it centered. Didn't do any good to tell them what it was for, people can't stand to see what they percieve to be an imbalance I suppose.He was lucky that P51 didn't nose over at the same time. Good advertisement for a cockpit checkoutmaybe?

On our RV builders forum, pilot/builders testing their new plane, will often exclaim that it flies perfectly straight, on the first flight, hands off. And then some wonder why some of the RV's have to have rudder tabs to fly straight. I always have to point out, that it's because of the built in offset of the vertical stab.............or one that was built without an offset, which will need the tab. Speaking of P-51s, As I remember, the stab was offset, in addition to using lots of rudder trim for takeoff, and a bunch of right rudder pedal too.

Edited January 6, 201214 yr by LAdamson

Yep-put the throttle to full...gradually....and kick in right rudder-add more as the airspeed increases. One area imho xplane has it right!

I've noticed that some aircraft (probably in both sims)...........will start to turn, when you barely start to add throttle. Of course, that is wrong. I think the turning tendency, is just linked to the throttle, programming wise. But don't actually know.

Yep-that's why I always find the mania about fm's kinda strange-only so much you can do on a flat non moving monitor with a spring loaded joystick. Sounds and visuals-lots you can do..