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Is Coffee lake worth the upgrade for flight sim?

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Just now, martin-w said:

Thinking about it, Noel's conspiracy theory might have some validity I suppose. At the moment, AMD CPU's run quite warm, despite being soldered and having lower frequency. If that changes and AMD become more of a threat, Intel could solder, drop temps by 30 degrees, increase frequency and or cores and once again take the lead.

Somehow AMD manages to solder AND be cost competitive.  This tells me on no uncertain terms the actual cost of solder v rubberized TIM isn't that huge.    


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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I guess we'll never know what goes on in the Intel corporate brain. 

AMD have large dies though don't forget, Pretty huge CPU's. Less chance of cracking the die. Hard to solder small die's. May be a less expensive process for AMD and their huge CPU's.

Until it's time for your conspiracy theory to be manifest and Intel spend the bucks and blow AMD out of the water and simultaneously cause multiple orgasms among the solder loving PC master race. :biggrin:

 

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IMG_2188.jpg

That's believable Martin.   I'm very thankful I don't need to upgrade now since ASUS sent me a refurbed P9X79 WS and it overclocks exactly as my original one did.   The longer I am able to forestall upgrading the more impressed I should be w/ performance improvement.  So it's all good!

I don't know much about water coolers but if you will, can you see a way I could attach the radiator to the outside of my HAF X case so that it sits between my a/c unit and my case?   This would clearly yield serious additional cooling even in fan only mode let alone a/c mode.  I guess the first step is finding longer tubing.  Then fashion a metal scaffold and hang the radiator from that or something along those lines.   Or choice B, mount inside the case and it still benefits a lot from what I do w/ this already.   The HAF X case has a big fan directly in front of the a/c unit.


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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18 minutes ago, Noel said:

 

I don't know much about water coolers but if you will, can you see a way I could attach the radiator to the outside of my HAF X case so that it sits between my a/c unit and my case?   This would clearly yield serious additional cooling even in fan only mode let alone a/c mode.  I guess the first step is finding longer tubing.  Then fashion a metal scaffold and hang the radiator from that or something along those lines.   Or choice B, mount inside the case and it still benefits a lot from what I do w/ this already.   The HAF X case has a big fan directly in front of the a/c unit.

 

Custom loops are sometimes configured that way, with rad outside of the case. I believe there are brackets just for the purpose. A bit harder with an AIO, you would need a hole in your case big enough for the block/pump.

Most AIO's are closed, sealed loops, so you cant modify tubing. However, there are one or two open loop AIO's that do allow this. For example...

http://www.swiftech.com/h240x2.aspx

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Alphacool/Eisbaer_240/

 

Brackets...

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=external+radiator+mounting+bracket+pc&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB719GB719&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiv-8HiqozXAhWD1hoKHWVRC-wQsAQIUA&biw=1280&bih=649

 

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Awesome thanks Martin!


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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6 hours ago, martin-w said:

 

I just edited my post with conductivity data.

Conductivity...

Solder 81.8 W/(M*K)

Thermal Grizzly 12.5 W/(M*K)

Conventional TIM 5-10 W/(M*K)

Don't know temps in P3D Noel. But not overclocked would be below 70 I would have thought. Upper 70's I used to regard as acceptable when running the sim with an overclocked CPU. Anything under 80 is not a significant issue for CPU longevity. Yes,  extra heat is a negative but it's primarily voltage that kills.

Most enthusiasts swap their CPU's long before mid 70 temps cause an issue.  

In fact, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (that I've sitting here waiting for my delidding tool to arrive from Germany) and that most people use under the IHS is 73 W/mk! So close to solder. It's the Kryonaut that's 12.5 (and can be used with aluminium heatsinks, unlike Conductonaut)...

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On 23/10/2017 at 0:35 PM, vortex681 said:

I assume that you did a clean install of Windows as part of your upgrade? If so, this would almost certainly make things run better anyway, even if you'd kept the old system.

Yup, but I've worked in IT for 20 years now and am fastidious around the maintenance and setup of my Windows installs. They never get terrible and in desperate need of a wipe and reinstall, if you know what I mean.

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53 minutes ago, S_D said:

In fact, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (that I've sitting here waiting for my delidding tool to arrive from Germany) and that most people use under the IHS is 73 W/mk! So close to solder. It's the Kryonaut that's 12.5 (and can be used with aluminium heatsinks, unlike Conductonaut)...

What does one have to pay for a delidded and relidded CPU like 8700K these days from a reliable source?


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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9 hours ago, S_D said:

In fact, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (that I've sitting here waiting for my delidding tool to arrive from Germany) and that most people use under the IHS is 73 W/mk! So close to solder. It's the Kryonaut that's 12.5 (and can be used with aluminium heatsinks, unlike Conductonaut)...

Oops... sorry about that. Yep, Conductonaut was what I used on my daughters CPU. Dropped 15 degrees. Didn't expect more as Intels aplication of their TIM was good, not too thick and not dried up like some have reported.

I have the Die Mate 2, easy to use, did great job. Watch out for the Conductonaut though. First, slight push on the syringe and it shot across my kitchen and hit the fridge. 

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14 hours ago, Noel said:

Awesome thanks Martin!

While lying in bed this morning, remembered, my case and perhaps yours, has slots from the rear fan hole to holes for water cooling tubes. An AIO block could pass through so the rad could be externally mounted. Or a simple case mod of course.

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8 hours ago, Noel said:

What does one have to pay for a delidded and relidded CPU like 8700K these days from a reliable source?

I saw $359 on Siliconelottery.com. But sold out. Easy to do yourself though.

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Heck that's pretty cheap since they retail for $399!  Martin, silicone is for boobs, silicon for CPUs ;o)


Noel

System:  7800x3D, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NH-U12A, MSI Pro 650-P WiFi, G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000, WD NVMe 2Tb x 1, Sabrent NVMe 2Tb x 1, RTX 4090 FE, Corsair RM1000W PSU, Win11 Home, LG Ultra Curved Gsync Ultimate 3440x1440, Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case, TCA Boeing Edition Yoke & TQ, Cessna Trim Wheel, RTSS Framerate Limiter w/ Edge Sync for near zero Frame Time Variance achieving ultra-fluid animation at lower frame rates.

Aircraft used in A Pilot's Life V2:  PMDG 738, Aerosoft CRJ700, FBW A320nx, WT 787X

 

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21 hours ago, Noel said:

What does one have to pay for a delidded and relidded CPU like 8700K these days from a reliable source?

Over here in the UK we have overclockers.co.uk, but they only sell binned (tested and rated to a certain speed) chips when they delid them, rather than delided but otherwise 'lottery' chips, so the price isn't really comparable. When I asked them though they said that all but one of their first (30) batch could hit 5GHz at 1.3v, so I thought it simplest to buy a regular retail chip and delid it myself (and I've had notification that my delid-die-mate-2 will arrive tomorrow, coincidentally). The 5GHz bin chips were £499 (I paid £359 for a regular chip). Quite a premium. 

All the best,

Simon

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13 hours ago, martin-w said:

Oops... sorry about that. Yep, Conductonaut was what I used on my daughters CPU. Dropped 15 degrees. Didn't expect more as Intels aplication of their TIM was good, not too thick and not dried up like some have reported.

I have the Die Mate 2, easy to use, did great job. Watch out for the Conductonaut though. First, slight push on the syringe and it shot across my kitchen and hit the fridge. 

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to evacuate the kitchen of girlfriend, cat, and anything else that's valuable when I do it!

I'm not planning on delidding straight away anyway. I know it's pretty fool proof with the delid-die-mate-2, but I'd rather wait till the chips were in regular supply again before risking it (just on the off chance I damage it and need to replace it).

Besides, 'stock' performance is so good I'm not dying for more speed at the moment.

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